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Durango DNX408 - Fast enough to win the World Title.

Durango DNX408 - Fast enough to win the World Title.

Old 05-19-2012, 06:19 PM
  #7966  
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So I am in the process of building my DNX408. I have purchased an Ofna starter box. Ofna part number 10253 to be specific. Now I went with this box as I didn't want a starter box that had a belt drive setup, but it has become apparent that that is going to be the solution to the problem I am having. The starter box wheel is too big around and rubs on the left and right side of the cutout for the flywheel. I can get it to turn the motor over a bit if it is aligned just perfect, but that is too much hassel. Not to mention I want it to be completly idiot proof, in case a different idiot needs to start my car. So my question to all of you, is which starter box are you using to start your DNX408? Does it work well? Can you get parts for it?

Thanks,
R.Shackleford
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Old 05-19-2012, 07:24 PM
  #7967  
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I used the same style box without issues I took the motor out and align must be perfect I'm sure your using the stock clutch 36.
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Old 05-19-2012, 07:29 PM
  #7968  
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Originally Posted by R.Shackleford
So I am in the process of building my DNX408. I have purchased an Ofna starter box. Ofna part number 10253 to be specific. Now I went with this box as I didn't want a starter box that had a belt drive setup, but it has become apparent that that is going to be the solution to the problem I am having. The starter box wheel is too big around and rubs on the left and right side of the cutout for the flywheel. I can get it to turn the motor over a bit if it is aligned just perfect, but that is too much hassel. Not to mention I want it to be completly idiot proof, in case a different idiot needs to start my car. So my question to all of you, is which starter box are you using to start your DNX408? Does it work well? Can you get parts for it?

Thanks,
R.Shackleford
Using the Ofna Blue box (OFN10244). Took me a few trys to get it setup right (You have to set it up offset) but works well with stock 36mm Flywheel.
Parts look readily available for it (from looking at Amain).
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Old 05-19-2012, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by tobamiester
Using the Ofna Blue box (OFN10244). Took me a few trys to get it setup right (You have to set it up offset) but works well with stock 36mm Flywheel.
Parts look readily available for it (from looking at Amain).
+1 The blue ofna truggy box is working great for me. Never a need for parts on it either. The motors are probably the best I have seen and I have two of them.
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Old 05-20-2012, 01:02 PM
  #7970  
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I was like you, i didn't like the idea of a belt driven starter box, but after a couple of years of carrying round a big ass beefy one, i took the jump and bought a Mugen B2 box, i have been running this for over 2 years now and had no problems at all! i have also found that because this has a smaller wheel than most boxes it is a lot easier to get it to line up with the flywheel on the dingo!

I use the front 2 posts and a my third location is simply a M3 screw through the hole that is used the the manifold support on the buggy, you cannot fail to get it lined up then! plus, the countersink on the underside of the chassis guides the screw in nicely if your in a hurry!

second good thing i have found recently, is that as the wheel wears down, it is really easy with this box, to lift the wheel up and make it contact fully again!

hope that helps!

Rob
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Old 05-21-2012, 08:12 AM
  #7971  
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First time out at a big race this weekend. Had a really bad experience with my DNX. So figured I'd ask the community for some ideas.

I broke every round and the main. Same front left CVD. I really don't understand it. (Had similar crashes with my DEX408 and the heavier car ran good all day).

I'm thinking its a build issue rather than manufacturing issues, but I've heard of others having this experience.

Other than breaking all day, the car was a handful, rear end would spin out pretty easily powering out of a turn. I made changes after a few suggestions on here (2mm Rear Sway, 2mm Hubs, 2mm Mod).

Any help on the breakages would help.

Pic below shows whats left of the two CVD's. Top CVD broke in 1st Qualifier. 2nd one is below whats left of it.


Last edited by tobamiester; 05-23-2012 at 07:59 AM. Reason: grammer
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Old 05-21-2012, 08:28 AM
  #7972  
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When did they break? After jumps, i suppose? I'm thinking full revs, slam in to ground , drive-shaft snap, scenario. If thats so, softer suspension could be a workaround, causing the tire not to dig in as hard, and spin of the force, rather then snap. Ideally, the drive-shaft should be stronger tho.
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Old 05-21-2012, 08:44 AM
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I have never had anything close to this happen. In the 1.5 years I have run the Durango I think I have only replaced 2 of the front cvd's because they were bent....


Thats alot of force for those to snap like that. Almost like they bound up. Too much droop and the cvd started to come out and snapped?
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Old 05-21-2012, 09:10 AM
  #7974  
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I'd check your front droop as well, too much droop might be causing an extreme angle at the drive side or the wheel side, and binding things up, causing it to twist and snap.
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Old 05-21-2012, 09:12 AM
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tobamiester - forward these over to [email protected] and we will look into it for you

this is VERY bizzare and certainly not expected or related to your setup, send us some photos and some details about your kit ID and where you got it from, we will look into it

Thanks
Chris
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Old 05-21-2012, 10:27 AM
  #7976  
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Thanks guys. I had the droop screwed dialed out to limit the droop so don't think thats the issue.

Yes the first two breaks were down siding a triple tangling/landing on a pipe. But nothing absurd. I marshaled that jump a few times and saw all sorts of horrific landings and nobody else breaking...

Thanks Chris, I'll send the pics/detail over to TD. Cheers mate.
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Old 05-21-2012, 10:28 AM
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I have struggled with rear end traction with the buggy for quite sometime and I believe it is my fault. I have read and read but have missed information here and there or I have implemented the information wrong.

If I wanted the absolute most locked in rear as possible what would my settings be?

Current settings-


Oil 5000 front, 7000 center, 2000 rear.

Shocks on outside at arm and lowest hole on tower.

Running outer most hole on the hub and highest inside hole on the tower.

2 mm mod

white springs and 450cst on oil

Shocks in outside hole on arm and lowest inside hole on tower.


Lutz's page suggests short camber links for loose tracks. My understanding was that you wanted longer links???


TIA
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Old 05-21-2012, 10:32 AM
  #7978  
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Originally Posted by Limywidget
I have struggled with rear end traction with the buggy for quite sometime and I believe it is my fault. I have read and read but have missed information here and there or I have implemented the information wrong.

If I wanted the absolute most locked in rear as possible what would my settings be?

Current settings-


Oil 5000 front, 7000 center, 2000 rear.

Shocks on outside at arm and lowest hole on tower.

Running outer most hole on the hub and highest inside hole on the tower.

2 mm mod

white springs and 450cst on oil


Lutz's page suggests short camber links for loose tracks. My understanding was that you wanted longer links???


TIA
Try the short link on the hub but the inside hole on the tower, try bring the camber link to the bottom of the tower i no lutz and setup books say the higher you go the more grip you get but i just find the lower i go the more grip i get, the diffs that i am running is 5k front centre and rear durango oil and i have to much rear grip i was traction rolling. hope this helps
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Old 05-21-2012, 10:34 AM
  #7979  
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i have a problem with the durango bladders splitting im using the v2 bladders and they split if i use the vented shock caps the oil then runs out of the shock and it is really annoying?
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Old 05-21-2012, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Limywidget
I have struggled with rear end traction with the buggy for quite sometime and I believe it is my fault. I have read and read but have missed information here and there or I have implemented the information wrong.

If I wanted the absolute most locked in rear as possible what would my settings be?

Current settings-


Oil 5000 front, 7000 center, 2000 rear.

Shocks on outside at arm and lowest hole on tower.

Running outer most hole on the hub and highest inside hole on the tower.

2 mm mod

white springs and 450cst on oil

Shocks in outside hole on arm and lowest inside hole on tower.


Lutz's page suggests short camber links for loose tracks. My understanding was that you wanted longer links???


TIA
try short link on hub and inside hole on tower, bring the camber link down on the tower i no lutz and setup books say the higher you go the more grip well i find and people at my club find the lower you go the more grip you get, my diffs are 5k front centre and rear durango oil i have to much rear grip and i traction roll last week, u could also try the 2mm mod im trying this next week.
hope this helps
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