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Durango DNX408 - Fast enough to win the World Title.

Durango DNX408 - Fast enough to win the World Title.

Old 03-28-2012, 08:31 AM
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a main has them for 369. do i need to get one?
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Old 03-28-2012, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by vito
a main has them for 369. do i need to get one?
Yes (Cue scene from Star Wars Ep 4. "This is the Buggy you are looking for"...)
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Old 03-28-2012, 09:01 AM
  #7653  
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i have a car at the lhs for sell need it gone.ill think on this some thank you
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Old 03-28-2012, 09:39 AM
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Questions??

Hey everyone I finally think I have the basics mastered, I have two questions if someone could help would be greatly appreciated.

1. On the 2mm rear mod I saw early posts about grinding down the part, on the Durango site it shows no grinding just the 2mm shims under the rear assembly is that correct, so no grinding on the 2mm rear mod?

2. The sway bars have a mount connecting it to each arm. How do I know where to tighten these mounts on the sway bar? Is this a type of adjustment or tighten it down anywhere on the sway bar?

Thank you for any help
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Slick990
And what adjusts the droop?

Ive come from a few years of touring cars, where we would never use a droop screw to limit the length of a shock as that would be set through the actual shock itself off the car.

Do you set the droop first, then the shock length or the other way round?
Originally Posted by jsp619
Droop is the shock lenth the ride hieght should come from the shock adjustment collars, you should first set the shock length or droop first with the droop screws that go through the arms and hit the chassis, then adjust the ride height with the amount of preload on the gold shock collar, if you can not obtain the correct ride height with the shock collars adjusted you have to much rebound built into the shocks.
Droop is the amount of travel you suspension has down from static ride height. Like he said, set the ride height with the spring collars then set the droop(shock length) with the screws.
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:11 AM
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Hey guys, Just pulled the trigger on a DNX408 kit and am looking forward to the build. I'm new to nitro but have been racing on and off since I was a kid. I've been reading through the thread, picking up bits of information here and there, but was curious if anyone knew of one post that contained a "running list" of helpful mods/fixes to address while I'm building the car? If not I'll try to compile one as I plan my build, So far I've read:

Smooth the inner shock bodies to prevent them from tearing bladders (or use Losi Bladders

the 2mm mod seems to be the way to go on the rear end, so I'll plan to do that on my initial build

Fuel tank issues - ordered the v2 tank with the car

Radio tray- planning to order the v2 tray as well

I'm sure I"m missing some stuff here, so if you have any tips I'm all ears. Once I get a list together I'll post it up for others that are new to the car.

Thanks!
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by stg099
Hey guys, Just pulled the trigger on a DNX408 kit and am looking forward to the build. I'm new to nitro but have been racing on and off since I was a kid. I've been reading through the thread, picking up bits of information here and there, but was curious if anyone knew of one post that contained a "running list" of helpful mods/fixes to address while I'm building the car? If not I'll try to compile one as I plan my build, So far I've read:

Smooth the inner shock bodies to prevent them from tearing bladders (or use Losi Bladders

the 2mm mod seems to be the way to go on the rear end, so I'll plan to do that on my initial build

Fuel tank issues - ordered the v2 tank with the car

Radio tray- planning to order the v2 tray as well

I'm sure I"m missing some stuff here, so if you have any tips I'm all ears. Once I get a list together I'll post it up for others that are new to the car.

Thanks!
I do remember reading that the wing mount is another weak point as well, I don't know if the updated part is in the kit or not
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by spencey820
Hey everyone I finally think I have the basics mastered, I have two questions if someone could help would be greatly appreciated.

1. On the 2mm rear mod I saw early posts about grinding down the part, on the Durango site it shows no grinding just the 2mm shims under the rear assembly is that correct, so no grinding on the 2mm rear mod?

2. The sway bars have a mount connecting it to each arm. How do I know where to tighten these mounts on the sway bar? Is this a type of adjustment or tighten it down anywhere on the sway bar?

Thank you for any help

do the durango site 2mm mod, so no grinding

i set the mount flush with the end of my sway bar
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:52 AM
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is this kit hard to set up i like to get one?
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by vito
is this kit hard to set up i like to get one?
Not at all, this car is extremely easy to set up and work on. If you get the V1 just make sure to get the V2 fuel tank and radio box along with it. Oh, and some washers for the 2mm mod on the rear. The V2 kit has updated bladders for the shocks but i have been using the Losi ones and no problem.
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Old 03-28-2012, 12:00 PM
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thanks i just pay i do like this car.
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Old 03-28-2012, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by vito
is this kit hard to set up i like to get one?
Not trying to discourage you. I like my DNX. But it isn't that easy to get setup. Small tuning window to get the car dialed...


In my experience anyway...
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Old 03-28-2012, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Limywidget
Not trying to discourage you. I like my DNX. But it isn't that easy to get setup. Small tuning window to get the car dialed...


In my experience anyway...
I agree, compared to the other cars I've had (RC8B, MBX6) this one is the hardest to get set up and if its a little off its not going to perform well, took me two practice days to get the right set up for my track and driving style. But when you do get it, it is by far the best car you can get, IMHO.
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Old 03-28-2012, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Jon Carlson
Droop is the amount of travel you suspension has down from static ride height. Like he said, set the ride height with the spring collars then set the droop(shock length) with the screws.
You have it reversed. Set the droop then the ride height. If you do it in the order you suggested, then step 3 would be to reset your ride height.
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Old 03-28-2012, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by stg099
Hey guys, Just pulled the trigger on a DNX408 kit and am looking forward to the build. I'm new to nitro but have been racing on and off since I was a kid. I've been reading through the thread, picking up bits of information here and there, but was curious if anyone knew of one post that contained a "running list" of helpful mods/fixes to address while I'm building the car? If not I'll try to compile one as I plan my build, So far I've read:

Smooth the inner shock bodies to prevent them from tearing bladders (or use Losi Bladders

the 2mm mod seems to be the way to go on the rear end, so I'll plan to do that on my initial build

Fuel tank issues - ordered the v2 tank with the car

Radio tray- planning to order the v2 tray as well

I'm sure I"m missing some stuff here, so if you have any tips I'm all ears. Once I get a list together I'll post it up for others that are new to the car.

Thanks!
Bladders work fine if you put them in the shock body and then screw the cap on. If you put them in the cap and then screw on, they get cut.

Aluminum servo horn will be needed for steering.

Buy the updated wing mount which will include the new front bumper.

Buy an extra rear center drive shaft also. Kit ones were hit or miss for failing. Most people are running kyosho springs also. Unless you buy the V2 kit, none of the updated parts are in the other kits. I bought mine even after about a year and none of the updated parts were in the kit.
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