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Durango DNX408 - Fast enough to win the World Title.

Durango DNX408 - Fast enough to win the World Title.

Old 11-23-2011, 03:32 PM
  #6916  
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Well my new starter box came in today...I ordered the Dynamite one that is setup much like the Ofna Truggy starter box but I liked the triple guide slots better on this...now to get off work so I can go home and set it up The one issue I have with it so far is minor...but the crimp connectors on the power switch are at a 90* angle instead of straight so the switch doesn't want to set flat in the housing. I'll have that remedied soon as I can stop by the electronics shop on my way home and get new connectors.
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Old 11-23-2011, 03:52 PM
  #6917  
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt
Well my new starter box came in today...I ordered the Dynamite one that is setup much like the Ofna Truggy starter box but I liked the triple guide slots better on this...now to get off work so I can go home and set it up The one issue I have with it so far is minor...but the crimp connectors on the power switch are at a 90* angle instead of straight so the switch doesn't want to set flat in the housing. I'll have that remedied soon as I can stop by the electronics shop on my way home and get new connectors.



Solder the wires, Screw Connectors.
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Old 11-23-2011, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Integra
Solder the wires, Screw Connectors.
+1. We've smoked a few starter boxes due to crappy connectors.
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Old 11-23-2011, 04:48 PM
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Shipping cost are too high to order direct.

Last edited by jmackani; 11-23-2011 at 06:52 PM.
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Old 11-23-2011, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by jmackani
Shipping cost are too high to order direct.
http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...oducts_id=7585
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Old 11-23-2011, 08:00 PM
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Well guys, I was running the Kyosho light blue springs on the front, and the lime green on the rear and no matter what I tried I could not get to the 27mm ride height. The buggy fel pretty good with these springs but I decided to flip them. If you put the lime green in the front and the light blue in the rear it is easy to get to the 27mm ride height. I will see how this feels as I will be running in oractice for a while and a race on Saturday. 4 hrs. of track time and I will be anxious to see what this feels like if it feels any different. I hope it will be better considering my ride height is 3 - 4mm lower now!!!!!
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Old 11-23-2011, 09:12 PM
  #6922  
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Originally Posted by mjealey
Well guys, I was running the Kyosho light blue springs on the front, and the lime green on the rear and no matter what I tried I could not get to the 27mm ride height. The buggy fel pretty good with these springs but I decided to flip them. If you put the lime green in the front and the light blue in the rear it is easy to get to the 27mm ride height. I will see how this feels as I will be running in oractice for a while and a race on Saturday. 4 hrs. of track time and I will be anxious to see what this feels like if it feels any different. I hope it will be better considering my ride height is 3 - 4mm lower now!!!!!
That's what Ryan talked about a couple of pages back Let us know how it works


Originally Posted by DRCRacer299
Hey guys,
I have some findings that i'm learning as I visit new tracks. I find I am liking running light green front and light blue fronts in the rear, Kyosho springs on tracks that are rougher. Also moving the shocks inside on the arm on the rougher tracks is helping as well.

So on highbite and smoother tracks I am liking the Dark blue fronts and the light green fronts in the rear along with shocks on the outside holes on the arms.

I still like the A piston 3 hole front and rear but I can see the advantage of doing B piston 3 hole on a rough track!

Good luck to everyone racing this weekend!
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Old 11-24-2011, 12:46 AM
  #6923  
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Originally Posted by Integra
Solder the wires, Screw Connectors.
Oh I did The wiring looks really slick now. The only place I left the crimp connectors is where it connects to the switch...with the plastic housing of the switch you just can't solder it without ruining the switch...did that once. Also I left tuning fork connectors on the contact plates. Other than that it is all soldered and done up neatly. I had to move the wheel as far to the right it would go and line up the car 2mm to the left of center. So far in testing it works very well...looking forward to trying it out on Sunday
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Old 11-24-2011, 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt
Oh I did The wiring looks really slick now. The only place I left the crimp connectors is where it connects to the switch...with the plastic housing of the switch you just can't solder it without ruining the switch...did that once. Also I left tuning fork connectors on the contact plates. Other than that it is all soldered and done up neatly. I had to move the wheel as far to the right it would go and line up the car 2mm to the left of center. So far in testing it works very well...looking forward to trying it out on Sunday

Unfortunately You have left out essentially the most important joints that Need soldering to really have a good connection. IF your melting the switch contact's your holding the heat there WAY too long.
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Old 11-24-2011, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Integra
Unfortunately You have left out essentially the most important joints that Need soldering to really have a good connection. IF your melting the switch contact's your holding the heat there WAY too long.
+1 and tinning your connections is also very important.
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Old 11-24-2011, 09:21 AM
  #6926  
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Default Kyosho Springs

I can't get them to fit around the gold shock collars. How do y'all do that? I'd have to file down the collar or use another brand?
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Old 11-24-2011, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by mtwinste
I can't get them to fit around the gold shock collars. How do y'all do that? I'd have to file down the collar or use another brand?
they will pop on there just use a screw driver or something no need in filing. they will fit its just tight.


so i got the blue fronts on mine. its way to high. i have read some of you all saying that it would be anyone had any luck getting it down to 27mm with blue fronts ?
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Old 11-24-2011, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Integra
Unfortunately You have left out essentially the most important joints that Need soldering to really have a good connection. IF your melting the switch contact's your holding the heat there WAY too long.
I am aware of that...but it isn't the contacts that are melting it is the plastic housing that holds the contact. The plastic isn't as thick as say Deans connectors and melts extremely easily. Soldering a 16awg wire is going to require too much heat to get the wire attached. The thinner wire of a circuit board would be easy to solder on but not 16awg wire.
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Old 11-24-2011, 10:47 AM
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Happy Thanks fellow Durango drivers, wish you all the best
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Old 11-24-2011, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Kolunatic
Again my buggy was hooked last weekend,I wasn't.it's hard to get track time lately.
Track is very technical,hard packed, little dusty on outer edges,it held moisture very well on cloudy day.was traction rolling one qual and wrecked everywhere. Signed up for intermediate but not enough so was put in with experts, didn't go over well with some would've done better if I had ran my race instead of watching behind me, I didn't want to hear any complaining.
I've been running shocks out on arm in on tower, tried middle on tower due to amount of jumps but went back to inside.
Med cityblocks
Diffs 5,7,3
Sway bars- thickest,fr and rear
B pistons - 3 hole all around
45wt front,40wt rear
10 caster
-2 camber all around,toe out 2

Now if I can get more track time I may be able to catch up with my buggy!
45 and 40 wt seems very hard.
What is your oil brand ?
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