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Durango DNX408 - Fast enough to win the World Title.

Durango DNX408 - Fast enough to win the World Title.

Old 11-13-2011, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by BrakeTurnAccelerate
Lots of it...
They got 2 already

Last edited by drs92; 11-13-2011 at 09:17 PM.
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Old 11-13-2011, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by BrakeTurnAccelerate
Lots of it...
I hope lets stays, he has been very helpful!

Last edited by drs92; 11-13-2011 at 09:17 PM.
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Old 11-13-2011, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by BrakeTurnAccelerate
It looks like NeoBuggy updated the page.

The kid has commitment issues. He's going to burn every bridge before he turns 20. Him running AKA despite going to Pro-Line over a month ago is a slap in the face.
if you read it it says he ran them because he did get his shipment from proline... that aint no slap in the face... he just used the tires he had...
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Old 11-13-2011, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by kgombe
if you read it it says he ran them because he did get his shipment from proline... that aint no slap in the face... he just used the tires he had...
Does that mean that there are no Pro-Line distributors/retailers in Australia or Indo that can get him the wheels he needs, even if he has to pay for them? It was more than a month from signing, to this race.. Should be plenty of time to get at least a few sets. At least he took the AKA wheels off for the Podium pic.


Anyhow, back to the DNX.
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Old 11-14-2011, 03:18 AM
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[QUOTE=drs92;9906624]Thanks so much man!! Same here my first piece of hardware in this hobby, very special. Sportsman was tough, the word sportsman is very deceiving . I was with rtr engine & servos lol. 4 pit stops and still managed 5th versus everyone's high dollar engines. Oh and despite getting punted and starting dead last lol. Good day, what was weird is I snap a front center drive shaft in half any ideas? My Durango had no screw holding the shock in place the whole main, didn't pop off tho Fighting severe rebound issues on jumps & to be off throttle all day. Car got upset so easily & through the whoops it sucked.. Got to see Barry Pettit run, FAST!

Never broke a midshaft....yet just be careful building them that there's no binding and use a little red threadlock on setscrews.

I quit using blue threadlock on bottom diff holder screws cuz I had to cut one out with dremel. My last outing I lost two screws, ctr diff jumped up munched my spur,rounded out my rear brake, and broke the diff top plate. I didn't miss a qual made the main and got third! I was running around like a mad man tho! So I still use blue threadlock everywhere.
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Old 11-14-2011, 04:37 AM
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Originally Posted by drs92
Thanks so much man!! Same here my first piece of hardware in this hobby, very special. Sportsman was tough, the word sportsman is very deceiving . I was with rtr engine & servos lol. 4 pit stops and still managed 5th versus everyone's high dollar engines. Oh and despite getting punted and starting dead last lol. Good day, what was weird is I snap a front center drive shaft in half any ideas? My Durango had no screw holding the shock in place the whole main, didn't pop off tho Fighting severe rebound issues on jumps & to be off throttle all day. Car got upset so easily & through the whoops it sucked.. Got to see Barry Pettit run, FAST!

Deff. look used, get some good deals


Something to do with Money, Kyosho has it ??

I snapped a rear center drive shaft last weekend. It appears to keep this from happening some are replacing the cv pins every couple of weeks. Mine was worn some, but not entirely too bad. I too am having problems with the car in whoop sections of the track. I have yet to find a good setup for this sections to settle it down. The best I have found so far is keeping the shocks on the inner arms. Adding more droop did not seem to help it at all. As narrow as the buggy feels you really have to keep the ride height settings in the 26 to 27 range. I have found with the latest Lutz shock setup, to get decent ride height adjustment, I am running light blue kyosho in the front and the light green kyosho springs in the rear. The dark blue was too stiff for the front ride height.
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Old 11-14-2011, 04:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Doughty
we figure that if your buying these inserts you will already have a DNX408 so you should already have the stock inserts...?
True - but if you are rebuilding the car and want to replace the inserts you'd need to buy both the old bushings tree and the new one to get a full set...

Admittedly they are cheap enough it doesn't really make much difference...although it just seems a bit odd having to buy the complete set of old bushings for just the ones that go in the FF brace....

As long as the FF bushings are still going to be available in someway (i.e. TD don't accidentally discontinue them by discontinuing the old bushings tree) when they run out/run low of what they have in stock without making them available via the new tree etc), it doesn't really matter...
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Old 11-14-2011, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by jmackani
I snapped a rear center drive shaft last weekend. It appears to keep this from happening some are replacing the cv pins every couple of weeks. Mine was worn some, but not entirely too bad. I too am having problems with the car in whoop sections of the track. I have yet to find a good setup for this sections to settle it down. The best I have found so far is keeping the shocks on the inner arms. Adding more droop did not seem to help it at all. As narrow as the buggy feels you really have to keep the ride height settings in the 26 to 27 range. I have found with the latest Lutz shock setup, to get decent ride height adjustment, I am running light blue kyosho in the front and the light green kyosho springs in the rear. The dark blue was too stiff for the front ride height.
Just want to make a quick suggestion and observation.
I do think it may be best to run the lime green on the Front and the light blue on the rear. (Unless of course you really liked how it was!)

As far as the Dark blue springs. I am during the week trying to break them in. I put them on the front of the buggy and run the shock collar all the way down to the bottom of the threads. Then I prop the ends of the arms up on blocks or used tires or something and put a heavy weight like a starter box on the front of the car so it compresses. I'm doing this to try to break in the springs a bit.
Whatever you do though never compress a spring all the way to where the coils touch. You'll ruin it.
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Old 11-14-2011, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by DRCRacer299
Just want to make a quick suggestion and observation.
I do think it may be best to run the lime green on the Front and the light blue on the rear. (Unless of course you really liked how it was!)

As far as the Dark blue springs. I am during the week trying to break them in. I put them on the front of the buggy and run the shock collar all the way down to the bottom of the threads. Then I prop the ends of the arms up on blocks or used tires or something and put a heavy weight like a starter box on the front of the car so it compresses. I'm doing this to try to break in the springs a bit.
Whatever you do though never compress a spring all the way to where the coils touch. You'll ruin it.

Yes, I actually tried the lime green front and then light blue on the rear first and found to get the lower ride heights, I was better the other way around.
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Old 11-14-2011, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by jmackani
I snapped a rear center drive shaft last weekend. It appears to keep this from happening some are replacing the cv pins every couple of weeks. Mine was worn some, but not entirely too bad. I too am having problems with the car in whoop sections of the track. I have yet to find a good setup for this sections to settle it down. The best I have found so far is keeping the shocks on the inner arms. Adding more droop did not seem to help it at all. As narrow as the buggy feels you really have to keep the ride height settings in the 26 to 27 range. I have found with the latest Lutz shock setup, to get decent ride height adjustment, I am running light blue kyosho in the front and the light green kyosho springs in the rear. The dark blue was too stiff for the front ride height.
I'll pick up those springs! What Lutz setup are you using? Idk, it was weird, shouldn't of happened, not really upset since I got my award I landed totally wrong and was on power, so I think that the force went straight to the weakest link...shaft? Really want to stick with this car, but I was the worst through the whoops. I had to be off throttle coasting or the front would get outta whack, mugen's were killing that part (they swept every class). Plus, the car was so outta shape landing a jump, the rebound was terrible. I was literally coasting the whole race It's been super durable other then the shaft, check this out...MY TRACK I RAN (not me filming or Driving) Here is also what happened....

http://www.neobuggy.net/modules/news...?storyid=11165

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0uYlhO_aU8Q


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Old 11-14-2011, 12:03 PM
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$16 bucks for two springs??? Kinda high, you guys really pay that much? What about Hotbodies springs?
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Old 11-14-2011, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by drs92
$16 bucks for two springs??? Kinda high, you guys really pay that much? What about Hotbodies springs?
If you wear panty hose on your head when you hit "Checkout" you get em for free.


I think the only ones that are 16 are the light blue, the dark blue and light green were only 13 for 2 on Amain.
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Old 11-14-2011, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by drs92
I'll pick up those springs! What Lutz setup are you using? Idk, it was weird, shouldn't of happened, not really upset since I got my award I landed totally wrong and was on power, so I think that the force went straight to the weakest link...shaft? Really want to stick with this car, but I was the worst through the whoops. I had to be off throttle coasting or the front would get outta whack, mugen's were killing that part (they swept every class). Plus, the car was so outta shape landing a jump, the rebound was terrible. I was literally coasting the whole race It's been super durable other then the shaft, check this out...MY TRACK I RAN (not me filming or Driving) Here is also what happened....

http://www.neobuggy.net/modules/news...?storyid=11165

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0uYlhO_aU8Q


All the photos I have seen snapped near the flare part of the cvd. Yours is definitley different. I too found on flat landing jumps with the shocks out on the arms the car would get out of shape. If you have good downsides to land then move the arms out, otherwise mine are staying in. I have the Psycho Nitro Blast setup on my vehicle pretty much right now with the newer spring and pistons idea from the Southern Nationals.

Funny you mention the mugens. I swapped cars with my body the other night at practice and it was a mugen. It just soaked up the whooops and never stepped out the rear end. That was when I realized something was not right in my setup. I figured it was droop so, I maxed that out, reset the ride height and gave it a shot and it did not help. Mugens I think are just plain better in the the rough stuff.

Back to the Durango. I made mention on another thread about an Xray short course truck about the Ryan winning the southern Nationals. Someone attending the event mentioned that his car was not any better, but he found lines to run that did not upset the car so much. So, I am taking that approach now and really looking at the rough spots to find the smoothest lines for me.
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Old 11-14-2011, 01:27 PM
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Here is food for thought. There are many threads that get started saying this car or that car is better than this or that car. Then you invariably get someone who comes along and says they are all the same it's only driver.
I've always said, yes a good driver can make any car look pretty good but it doesn't mean the cars are the same. What you guys are finding/seeing is that the Mugen is probably the best car out there for whoop sections of a track. That buggy just does great on rough parts of a track. Where the Mugen struggles is with Corner speed. This is where the Durango for example really excels. The Durango buggy is very fast through the corners and a lot can be said for that.

You have to play to your strengths and work around the weaknesses. One thing I found to help me a little on the rougher tracks with this new shock set-up was to not only go to the lime green front, light blue rear springs (softer). But I also tried to put "B" 3 hole pistons in the rear when I was at Southern Nationals and that seemed to help as well. This delayed the pack just a little because the holes were bigger and thus seemed to help the car absorb the bumps a little better.

Unfortunately all rough tracks and whoop sections are created differently and so there is no magic "do this set-up" to hand out to people. However if you can try to let us know what your car was doing, (i.e. bottoming out off the chassis or was it packing up to quick from the shock.) and then let us know what you are running suspension wise perhaps we can help steer you in a better direction!
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Old 11-14-2011, 01:47 PM
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If I have a "flat" landing My Dingo seems to go squirrelly for a split second. Is this do to bottoming out or too much pack? I would think the latter, but I am not sure. The track I was running at weekend before last had a single to a tabletop and I was squirrelly just about everytime. The car seems to handle superbly every where else....
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