Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro Off-Road
Durango DNX408 - Fast enough to win the World Title. >

Durango DNX408 - Fast enough to win the World Title.

Durango DNX408 - Fast enough to win the World Title.

Old 03-15-2011, 01:52 PM
  #3286  
Tech Addict
 
Kolunatic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: san antonio,Texas
Posts: 646
Default

pic is cool but its killing page
Kolunatic is offline  
Old 03-15-2011, 02:00 PM
  #3287  
Tech Adept
 
Huleboer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Horsens, Denmark
Posts: 217
Default

Running LiFe packs. A LRP 1600MAh and a Ve Tech 1450MAh No need for voltage regulators or HV servos, that in themselves generate alot of heat.

Normal quality 6v servos are plenty strong for any 1:8 car.

And nice work to Ryan. A great achivement. Hope we'll get to see some video from the a-main.
Huleboer is offline  
Old 03-15-2011, 02:02 PM
  #3288  
Tech Adept
 
Huleboer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Horsens, Denmark
Posts: 217
Default

Originally Posted by InspGadgt
I've got a build question for ya guys...a buddy of mine is building his new DNX408 and mine shipped yesterday Anyway he ran into a snag on the center diff...if he tightens it down it isn't smooth like the front and rear diffs...but if he loosens it up until it is smooth then it leaks. At least that's what it sounded like when he was trying to explain it to me. When mine comes in I'll see if I have the same issue but was wondering if you guys had seen this as well...Is it an issue or does the diff just need some break in time?
There's been plenty of leaking diffs reports, but they are usually taken care of by replacing the seals.
Your other centerdiff problem has not been reported before.
Are you sure he's mounted the flanged bearings correctly?
Huleboer is offline  
Old 03-15-2011, 02:16 PM
  #3289  
Tech Addict
 
Kolunatic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: san antonio,Texas
Posts: 646
Default

mine was like that,thought nothing of it.i took apart and rechecked,all good.so i ran it.it leaked a little,rebuilt and now its loose,broke in?
Kolunatic is offline  
Old 03-15-2011, 02:23 PM
  #3290  
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,191
Default

Originally Posted by Huleboer
There's been plenty of leaking diffs reports, but they are usually taken care of by replacing the seals.
Your other centerdiff problem has not been reported before.
Are you sure he's mounted the flanged bearings correctly?
I would hope it isn't bad seals...the car is brand new...as for the bearings I don't know...I haven't seen it yet to verify...we were just talking about it on the phone thus far.
InspGadgt is offline  
Old 03-15-2011, 02:24 PM
  #3291  
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,191
Default

Originally Posted by Kolunatic
mine was like that,thought nothing of it.i took apart and rechecked,all good.so i ran it.it leaked a little,rebuilt and now its loose,broke in?
Ok cool...hopefully that is all it is is some break-in needed...I will know more once I get mine. I'm hoping it will be here by the weekend so I can build it
InspGadgt is offline  
Old 03-15-2011, 03:05 PM
  #3292  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (149)
 
chedda bob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Where the ego's are so big, people's heads can't fit in the door
Posts: 3,316
Trader Rating: 149 (100%+)
Default

Do the 1.2mm pistons exist? Or were those custom?
chedda bob is offline  
Old 03-15-2011, 03:09 PM
  #3293  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (31)
 
offroad dude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,075
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by chedda bob
Do the 1.2mm pistons exist? Or were those custom?
I think they were made....
offroad dude is offline  
Old 03-15-2011, 03:29 PM
  #3294  
Tech Addict
 
Kolunatic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: san antonio,Texas
Posts: 646
Default

Originally Posted by InspGadgt
Ok cool...hopefully that is all it is is some break-in needed...I will know more once I get mine. I'm hoping it will be here by the weekend so I can build it
theres plenty of build tips here
Kolunatic is offline  
Old 03-15-2011, 03:30 PM
  #3295  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 344
Default

We ran the Indiana state nitro indoor race this past weekend and it was Collins third weekend with the car and Dereks second with it, there was close to 100 entries and Derek qued 2nd and Collin 8th with many of the big name guys in the area not even making it straight into the A. After the 30 minute main was over Derek ended up 2nd and Collin finished 9th with a flameout on his first stop(should have finished around 5th or 6th), all inall the cars are vary impressive and turn better than I could ever get the last brand cars to turn. I can't wait to get some more time with it.

Mike Weatherholt
dynamiteracer is offline  
Old 03-15-2011, 03:36 PM
  #3296  
Tech Addict
 
Kolunatic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: san antonio,Texas
Posts: 646
Default

Kolunatic is offline  
Old 03-15-2011, 03:39 PM
  #3297  
Tech Addict
 
Kolunatic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: san antonio,Texas
Posts: 646
Default

Originally Posted by RockStar_199
sorry just cant get enough of that
thanks rockstar!!
Kolunatic is offline  
Old 03-15-2011, 06:12 PM
  #3298  
Tech Regular
 
DRCRacer299's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Roseville, CA
Posts: 496
Default

Originally Posted by chedda bob
Do the 1.2mm pistons exist? Or were those custom?
I was lucky enough to get a couple of blank pistons with which I drilled out to the 1.2 x 6.
I know Billy Fisher put small set-screws in the current holes and re-drilled with the 1.2 x 6 holes.
You could also try to epoxy the holes or fill them somehow and re-drill how you like. I know in the future we will have more options.

For now if you don't want to do any of that you can try Mugen pistons as I heard you only need to drill out the center just a little bit. Or you can use the 1.3 x 6 (A pistons) and use around 500cts.

Hope that helps,
-Ryan
DRCRacer299 is offline  
Old 03-16-2011, 12:30 AM
  #3299  
TIX
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
 
TIX's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 1,974
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Ryan are you still running 2mm under the rear arm braces?
TIX is offline  
Old 03-16-2011, 03:32 AM
  #3300  
TIX
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
 
TIX's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 1,974
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

i had a bit of a play around with the tank tonight to try and make a fuel gun fit.

this is what i have come up with.
using the top of an mbx6 tank (any old tank with the right size hole would do) i cut a ring out of the opening to slide into the top of the durango tank. i cut the baffles in the durango tank back to a point where the ring would sit down on them.
it only took about 10 minutes to make the ring up and shape the baffles inside the durango tank to support them.
the only concern i have is that if too much force is applied to the ring while filling it could force past the baffles and into the bottom of the tank. it wouldnt stop you from racing but it would make the next pit stop a little messy
im going to give it a go this weekend. if it works well enough i will find something to bond it in place with that wont effect the nitro in the tank

heres some pics

Durango DNX408 - Fast enough to win the World Title.-tix-tank.jpg

Durango DNX408 - Fast enough to win the World Title.-tix-tank-2.jpg

Durango DNX408 - Fast enough to win the World Title.-tix-tank-ring.jpg

on a side note. i got my M2C flywheel today. it said it was a 36mm and its come out of the packet at 38mm. the thing is huge. it only just clears the carby. ill give it a go but its not what i had expected

Durango DNX408 - Fast enough to win the World Title.-m2c-flywheel.jpg
TIX is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.