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Durango DNX408 - Fast enough to win the World Title.

Durango DNX408 - Fast enough to win the World Title.

Old 03-13-2011, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by chedda bob
VERY rough first outing with the car

Only ran 1 qual out of 3 and the front end fell apart on the warmup of the main. Having trouble with the alum hingepin holders front and back. Any slightest crash or tumble and it seems I blow the pin out the side of the alum. I did notice the pieces are quite thin at the sides. Regardless, it turned out to be quite the expensive day

1 JR8917HV throttle servo, Both front hingepin holders, and 1 rear hingepin holder...

When it was in 1 piece I was turning same laps as everyone else, so I guess I have that going for me. (typically I tq/qual 2 at the slowest..)
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Old 03-13-2011, 06:20 PM
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More....

Originally Posted by TeamDurango
Hey guys,
We’ve noted a couple of isolated incidents where the plastic suspension holder inserts (TD330133) have torn after heavy crashes – this effected a small batch of parts and we aren’t sure which kits would be effected. A revised material has since been used and we’d like to offer all our loyal customers these suspension inserts for free to ensure they aren’t running the soft parts from that batch.

Please contact your local distributor, which you’ll find on the Team Durango website here: http://www.team-durango.com/where-to-buy.php - or you can click the ‘Where to buy’ link at the top of the Team Durango site and click a flag that represents your Country to take you directly to your distributors details and they will be able to get you the revised inserts.
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Old 03-13-2011, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by FMLinero
Ryan is driving a Kyosho ST-RR, I do not know about Reno.

http://lutzinator.com/
Hey, this website. Is this something durango have him do or is this a requirement elsewhere...
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Old 03-13-2011, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by fullsyzz
You're not alone. Does it look like this?
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Old 03-13-2011, 06:41 PM
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Pic belongs to strngdze. I just reposted it.
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Old 03-13-2011, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by teeforb
Hey, this website. Is this something durango have him do or is this a requirement elsewhere...
i am pretty sure he just does it b/c he wants to. if you read the last post on the blog he talks about a friend who built the website for him.
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Old 03-13-2011, 07:13 PM
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Have you guys been spacing up your throttle servo away from the chassis? I just broke my third one this weekend, so I'm getting little desperate. Any tricks out there, please share....

I have noticed some rub marks on mine and it seems to be touching the chassis after the radio tray plate ends. Not sure if that is enough to break one or if it's the heat? i been using some heat tape to isolated it little bit but maybe it's not enough... Maybe i'm just having bad luck, but two heitecs and one savox are history...
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Old 03-13-2011, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by maxflo777
HAHAA... My drive train is about 85g lighter than OE.

I'm not using the TD inner diff gears, not because they have any problems, they dont, but because they are overkill, if the truggy comes out and I get it I may not touch them. I use AE inner gears, 19g instead of the original 30g (times 3)

The TD spur gear is "lightened" - yeah right! it weighs 38g, the non lightened Losi is 27g the lightened one is 24g. fits perfectly with the losi diff cases and (shimmed, 3mm) AE inner gears.

But! What I use is the AE RC8Te 48t plastic spur, 9 grams, Ive never had a single problem. I've used one on my Losi and it has about 8 gallons and it still in it, no problems. So technically speaking, no explanation is needed, but anyways, heres my logic:

If it works for a 10 pound truggy with a 4s lipo and a brushles motor it works for a buggy.

and about heat an hour long main?

if it works for a 1/8 on-road car with 20 times the traction and almost twice the horsepower it works for a buggy.


In addition, I modified the stupid radio tray on the car, I mean theres no sweetest car around, by far the best, but they ran out of fuel on the tray...
I cut all the section that goes below the battery (15g). If you notice, that part of the tray is not bolted to the chassis, instead is bolted to the radio box, this means that the weight of the tray actually is more stress on the radio box, I cut it out, put 2 strips of double faced tape in the chassis so the battery has a "floor" and (this is the important part) you need from TD240002 a second throttle servo front holder (the one that has the hole on top to bolt the receiver box) and dril a hole inthe receiver box to match it, with that you will be able to bolt the receiver box to both servo holders, making the whole structure VERY strong.

About a gallon of my hard and horrible driving capabilities without a single broken part

I also have rear and steering ti turnbuckles and mugen shock standoffs

xe

This is great info, thank you!

I enjoy making cars lighter and this is a big help. Let me know if you find more ways to save weight
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Old 03-13-2011, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by nitrozilla
lutz took overall TQ in his dnx408 with Reno sitting 4th behind kortz. great job guys
that track is huge and looking at the vids on neobuggy it looks almost too big. Looks like a tough track , from the drivers stand to the back side of the track there is alot of distance. the buggys look like ants and there is some "psychotic" air jumps.
I just returned from the pnb and yea its big but not to big.there is a few spots on the track that you just plain loose sight of your buggy around some turns.the worst thing is that it blowed out bad!!I mean real bad!!
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Old 03-13-2011, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by fullsyzz
You're not alone. Does it look like this?
Ding ding ding, we have a winner ladies and gentlemen!
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Old 03-13-2011, 07:39 PM
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Team Durango has addressed the issue with front pin carrier.
I broke a front arm today, but I'm not going to post a pic because some stuff is going to break.


Throttle servo. I put double sided tape under servo with heat tape and covered back of servo with heat tape facing engine. So far so good.
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Old 03-13-2011, 09:36 PM
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I used servo tape on both sides of the throttle servo and on the bottom of the steering servo. I also put heat tape on the side of the throttle servo that faces the motor. Zero servo issues.
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Old 03-13-2011, 11:53 PM
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what's the deal with separating the servo from chassis? is the heat from the chassis destroying the servo?
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Old 03-14-2011, 12:08 AM
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Well - looks like Ryan won!! Great stuff.

Well done - now get some sleep!!

Cheers

Darryn
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Old 03-14-2011, 12:21 AM
  #3225  
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Originally Posted by Norbert50p
Have you guys been spacing up your throttle servo away from the chassis? I just broke my third one this weekend, so I'm getting little desperate. Any tricks out there, please share....

I have noticed some rub marks on mine and it seems to be touching the chassis after the radio tray plate ends. Not sure if that is enough to break one or if it's the heat? i been using some heat tape to isolated it little bit but maybe it's not enough... Maybe i'm just having bad luck, but two heitecs and one savox are history...

Checked your end points, no binding at all? Make sure the throttle cam/rocker is the right way up and isn't binding. Along with the carb being at an angle so it pulls straight as possible.

I've not spaced either of my savox's up, probably had around 8 hours on the car now, and the servo's had been in my mugen for 20 hours.
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