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Durango DNX408 - Fast enough to win the World Title.

Durango DNX408 - Fast enough to win the World Title.

Old 03-07-2011, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by pword
pardon me being a rookie...

what do you mean by this ..."With the above issue in mind, I began to make changes to counter it. The first and most important thing I felt was to minimize chassis roll. This to me seems to be the cars Achilles heel right in front of excessive weight transfer (rear to front). I raised the roll center in the rear all the way (lower inside hole on the tower) and one hole above that for the front. Most will find this change alone will have a drastic improvement."

i appreciate the clarification
I believe chassis roll effects this car much more than others due to a chassis design that is “rear heavy”. This is by no means a bad thing…You just have to keep this in mind as you’re tuning your suspension. Personally I think it’s easier to take a car that has tons of steering and tone it down a bit then to try and find steering on a car that has none. One of the easiest things to adjust that minimizes chassis roll is to raise your roll center (lower your camber links on the shock tower). I know the whole “Raise by lowering” thing is very confusing, entire books have been written on roll center and it’s difficult to grasp until you’ve seen some illustrations. Minor changes yield big yield big results on this car, just one of the many things I love about it. Hope that helped…
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Old 03-07-2011, 09:45 AM
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I don't have to necessarily race. I do have the desc410r i can race while breaking in the motor. I just would prefer to break it in with someone who is familiar with break ins. Also, i may not have the fuel til sat morning. It's really difficult to find the bryons fuel out here in SD.

Originally Posted by strngdze
Hey Tee,

If at all possible, you want to get at least (5) tanks cycled through that engine before Saturday if you plan to race. You do not want to try and run it in on race day. Nova’s do not loosen up until a gallon or so of fuel has been run through them. If you get 5 or 6 tanks cycled (the more the better) you will probably be safe racing with the engine set pretty fat and you’re throttle EPA set below 100%. I won’t get into any break-in techniques here, as there is a ton of info in this thread. "Engine Break-in"

It will be a long day if you decide to try and run that engine in at the track. During “run in” tuning can be a PIA. Again, the more fuel you can get through it this week, the easier life will be at the track on Saturday. I’m pretty sure you bought the Competition Heat engine warmer. Just make sure you use it every time prior to starting the engine. You’ll get a lot more life out of it for sure and your con rod will definitely thank you for it. Good Luck.
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Old 03-07-2011, 09:59 AM
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I have about a Gallon on my 408 Now and i can Honestly say it does drive loose. I have let a couple guys drive it and they all felt the same way. I have done a lot of Adjusting in the rear and it is better still not were i would like it. I have read threw some of this thread and was wondering what everyone is using for rear setup such as springs, shock oil, Sway bar.
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Old 03-07-2011, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by strngdze
I believe chassis roll effects this car much more than others due to a chassis design that is “rear heavy”. This is by no means a bad thing…You just have to keep this in mind as you’re tuning your suspension. Personally I think it’s easier to take a car that has tons of steering and tone it down a bit then to try and find steering on a car that has none. One of the easiest things to adjust that minimizes chassis roll is to raise your roll center (lower your camber links on the shock tower). I know the whole “Raise by lowering” thing is very confusing, entire books have been written on roll center and it’s difficult to grasp until you’ve seen some illustrations. Minor changes yield big yield big results on this car, just one of the many things I love about it. Hope that helped…
i was just not sure you meant the shock location or camber link. i fully understand now. appreciate so much for sharing and clarifying. i will surely try your setup. i have heavy trigger finger too.
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Old 03-07-2011, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by strngdze
Hey Tee,

If at all possible, you want to get at least (5) tanks cycled through that engine before Saturday if you plan to race. You do not want to try and run it in on race day. Nova’s do not loosen up until a gallon or so of fuel has been run through them. If you get 5 or 6 tanks cycled (the more the better) you will probably be safe racing with the engine set pretty fat and you’re throttle EPA set below 100%. I won’t get into any break-in techniques here, as there is a ton of info in this thread. "Engine Break-in"

It will be a long day if you decide to try and run that engine in at the track. During “run in” tuning can be a PIA. Again, the more fuel you can get through it this week, the easier life will be at the track on Saturday. I’m pretty sure you bought the Competition Heat engine warmer. Just make sure you use it every time prior to starting the engine. You’ll get a lot more life out of it for sure and your con rod will definitely thank you for it. Good Luck.
im now hoping to get a few tanks through prior to Saturday.
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Old 03-07-2011, 11:16 AM
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LOL, in this video Ryan is possessed

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 03-07-2011, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Er8sr
I have about a Gallon on my 408 Now and i can Honestly say it does drive loose. I have let a couple guys drive it and they all felt the same way. I have done a lot of Adjusting in the rear and it is better still not were i would like it. I have read threw some of this thread and was wondering what everyone is using for rear setup such as springs, shock oil, Sway bar.
I had the same problem until this last weekend. Thanks to the help from Scott Mcbride it was a changed car and a pleadings to drive. Try this set up

Diffs 5, 5, 2
Shocks 550 fr and rear
Springs grey fr and rear
Sway bar STD
Front caster block 14 degree
Rear arm spacers 2mm at rear 1mm in front of arm
Rear hub spacers 2mm both sides
Ride height 30, 28
Camber -2 fr and rear
Toe 0 degrees
Shock position middle of tower and outside hole on arm
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Old 03-07-2011, 12:42 PM
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What type of track were you driving on?
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Old 03-07-2011, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Er8sr
I have about a Gallon on my 408 Now and i can Honestly say it does drive loose. I have let a couple guys drive it and they all felt the same way. I have done a lot of Adjusting in the rear and it is better still not were i would like it. I have read threw some of this thread and was wondering what everyone is using for rear setup such as springs, shock oil, Sway bar.
I also spoke with Scott McBride and took his advice on starting stock. As an aggressive driver it didnt really wrk for me

I was running on an extremely loose track on the weekend and this is why I came up with. I was really happy with this setup. The car was super stable and easier to drive than all the past buggies I have driven on this track

This is where I ended up. This setup was near perfect for me. Next time I run I'm going to try 6k or 5k in the front diff

Diffs
7f 7c 4r
Front
10' caster
2' camber
2' toe out
2.5 sway bar
Shock in on tower out on arm
40wt stock piston Losi silver springs
1mm in front of arm
Camber link location 9
108.5mm droop center to center
26mm ride height

Rear
3' camber
3/3 blocks
Camber links 2 hub 5 tower
2mm sway bar
Shocks in on tower out on arm
30wt with smaller option piston
116.5mm droop center to center
2mm in front of arm
4mm in front of hubs
Wing location 1f/2r

I was really really happy with the car by the end of the day using this setup
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Old 03-07-2011, 01:45 PM
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Thanks for the input guys.

Here is what my rear setup was with best grip.

Green springs
35 shock oil
Recommended piston
Camber link all they way out on hub / all the way to bottom on tower
Shocks middle hole on tower / outer hole on a arm
2.2 sway bar

Going to try and go with a softer spring
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Old 03-07-2011, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by dark
LOL, in this video Ryan is possessed
I just love the way he handles the car, now he just need a proper mill in it and he'll start winning big-time!
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Old 03-07-2011, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Er8sr
Thanks for the input guys.

Here is what my rear setup was with best grip.

Green springs
35 shock oil
Recommended piston
Camber link all they way out on hub / all the way to bottom on tower
Shocks middle hole on tower / outer hole on a arm
2.2 sway bar

Going to try and go with a softer spring

What type of surface are you racing on and what tire/insert combo are you running? Honestly, unless you’ve installed titanium turnbuckles and screws, I think a softer spring is going the wrong way. Green is a good starting point. You might try to increase your shock oil to 42.5 or 45. Also increase your sway bars to 2.4 front & rear. Your rear camber link is good in position 5, but move your front camber link to hole 4 on the shock tower. As a rule of thumb, you always want your static roll center lower in the front. Below is my current set-up sheet. I run on a track that is fairly loose when it dries up and this set up feels very planted.

Or download it HERE
Attached Thumbnails Durango DNX408 - Fast enough to win the World Title.-dnx408-rctech-03062011.png  
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Old 03-07-2011, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by strngdze
What type of surface are you racing on and what tire/insert combo are you running? Honestly, unless you’ve installed titanium turnbuckles and screws, I think a softer spring is going the wrong way. Green is a good starting point. You might try to increase your shock oil to 42.5 or 45. Also increase your sway bars to 2.4 front & rear. Your rear camber link is good in position 5, but move your front camber link to hole 4 on the shock tower. As a rule of thumb, you always want your static roll center lower in the front. Below is my current set-up sheet. I run on a track that is fairly loose when it dries up and this set up feels very planted.

Or download it HERE

I couldnt agree more. When I went to the nitropit I put the nitropit setup posted on TD webiste and it had thick oils and grey springs. I could not drive the car at all. I went back to thinner oil and heavier springs and it was much better.
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Old 03-07-2011, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank L
I couldnt agree more. When I went to the nitropit I put the nitropit setup posted on TD webiste and it had thick oils and grey springs. I could not drive the car at all. I went back to thinner oil and heavier springs and it was much better.
Hey Frank,

How did the DNX hold up for you at the Nitro Challenge? I tried to catch as much as I could on Live RC.


David.
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Old 03-07-2011, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by strngdze
Hey Frank,

How did the DNX hold up for you at the Nitro Challenge? I tried to catch as much as I could on Live RC.


David.
I did not break a single part on the nitro or E DNX all week and I have an early car so I am sure it has the thin hinge pin holder. I had a buddy that broke the front hinge pin carrier. These cars are tough and Im almost convinced that they are approaching Losi tough. I had an issue with the pressure line coming off the tank and these damm new XZ speed carbs are not as good as the older WC II J type carbs, but man I had a blast. I dont have any video of my DNX, a little of the 6T and the slash 4x4 but IMO these cars are as tough as any other car out there.
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