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Durango DNX408 - Fast enough to win the World Title.

Durango DNX408 - Fast enough to win the World Title.

Old 03-06-2011, 01:08 PM
  #3061  
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Originally Posted by Bullit S
what brand is that orange turnbuckles used from lutz and boots??

thanks
Team Durango.
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Old 03-06-2011, 03:15 PM
  #3062  
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Originally Posted by FMLinero
Team Durango.
Part no: ???
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Old 03-06-2011, 03:17 PM
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Are you all having to shorten the servo wires a lot in order to get gruel to fit in the receiver box?
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Old 03-06-2011, 03:18 PM
  #3064  
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well,i didnt get to race yesterday,but got to track today.track ws totally dry,dusty,loose ,but underlying packed thru the line.it ws difficult getting traction.so i decided to change tires,no luck.so i just graabbed both rear camber links and dropped them one hole on tower,pow traction.i lowered one more hole for grins and i couldnt believe how fast i was getting results.ive got almost 2 gallons on it now and still having fun.
thanks team durango.
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Old 03-06-2011, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by janderson78
Are you all having to shorten the servo wires a lot in order to get gruel to fit in the receiver box?
no
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Old 03-06-2011, 06:54 PM
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Thumbs up Should you continue with the Durango - ABSOLUTELY

A few posts ago I made some comments about the Durango and issues over it being loose in the rear and difficult to get a set up that would work. I was also going to make a decision on whether to continue with it after running it at the pre-nationals this weekend just gone.

Well the pre-nationals has gone and I am loving this car After spending some time with Scott and Kyle McBride the key to this car is using the standard set up. All my problems came from running too heavy diff oil, getting the ride height right, build your shocks correctly, use some good tires (loving those AKA I Beams!) and this car is awesome. The track for the Australian nationals is tough. Big jumps, quite tight and a real test all round. I am a driver in development(!) so I gave my Durango a real work out - some big crashes, lot of time on its roof, and it handled all I through it. The car is sturdy and when set up right great to drive. I did however get better and better with it. That is the beauty of this car, it allows you to develop your skills. As a result I managed to bump up through one final - just wish I could jump and control a car like Kyle McBride, absolutely amazing to watch. If you want to see how difficult the track is go www.lrrcc.com - this is a supercross track with attitude.

This weekend would not not have been a success without the support of Scott and Kyle McBride. These guys are absolutely awesome, and again a testament to the talent and team that Durango have put together. Thanks for all your help and support guys (plus how cool to have a person pit for you that came 4th at the worlds - what a great way to learn!!)

They have Kyle's car working really well - shown by TQ this weekend. I didn't get to watch all of the final but understand Kyle came 2nd after he lead all of the race for a electrical problem to cause some fault right at the end. My projection for the next world's - watch Kyle McBride to take Durango all the way.

Will post a set up later.
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Old 03-06-2011, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by waynej
A few posts ago I made some comments about the Durango and issues over it being loose in the rear and difficult to get a set up that would work. I was also going to make a decision on whether to continue with it after running it at the pre-nationals this weekend just gone.

Well the pre-nationals has gone and I am loving this car After spending some time with Scott and Kyle McBride the key to this car is using the standard set up. All my problems came from running too heavy diff oil, getting the ride height right, build your shocks correctly, use some good tires (loving those AKA I Beams!) and this car is awesome. The track for the Australian nationals is tough. Big jumps, quite tight and a real test all round. I am a driver in development(!) so I gave my Durango a real work out - some big crashes, lot of time on its roof, and it handled all I through it. The car is sturdy and when set up right great to drive. I did however get better and better with it. That is the beauty of this car, it allows you to develop your skills. As a result I managed to bump up through one final - just wish I could jump and control a car like Kyle McBride, absolutely amazing to watch. If you want to see how difficult the track is go www.lrrcc.com - this is a supercross track with attitude.

This weekend would not not have been a success without the support of Scott and Kyle McBride. These guys are absolutely awesome, and again a testament to the talent and team that Durango have put together. Thanks for all your help and support guys (plus how cool to have a person pit for you that came 4th at the worlds - what a great way to learn!!)

They have Kyle's car working really well - shown by TQ this weekend. I didn't get to watch all of the final but understand Kyle came 2nd after he lead all of the race for a electrical problem to cause some fault right at the end. My projection for the next world's - watch Kyle McBride to take Durango all the way.

Will post a set up later.
I don't have a Durango and have no plans to get one but I believe they are great cars and I also believe most who get any kit and give up on them because they don't work are not putting in the effort needed to find a setup that works for them and the conditions they race in. Most of the top kits are cabable of preforming extremely good if you spend the time to make them right, adjusments are there for a reason and if used correctly almost any car can be dialed in to your needs.
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Old 03-06-2011, 07:57 PM
  #3068  
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Originally Posted by Bullit S
Part no: ???
Unfortunately, there are no parts number yet. Waiting for the options from Team Durango.
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Old 03-06-2011, 09:33 PM
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So I've tweaked with my set-up for about 4 weeks now. I'm very happy with the progress and have come up with a base set-up that fits my driving style (100% throttle/100% brake ha ha!). I don't get the wheel time that allows me to sit at the track and test all the little changes I make, so I had to take a few blind shots in the dark based solely upon suspension theory and mechanics. I'm no suspension engineer, although I did sleep at a Holiday Inn Express last night . I'll outline below some off my observations of the cars geometry and why I changed what I did.

The cars weight is primarily located towards the rear. At first you would think this would increase traction in the rear, well it does and doesn't..Let me explain. At low speeds the additional weight keeps the rear planted, but as you increase speed and charge hard into corners this all changes drastically. Once the rear breaks loose, the excessive weight over the rear creates a pendulum effect and the rear continues around. This is compounded by excessive weight transfer to the front during breaking and sometimes just letting off the throttle. This is what I believe most are encountering when they say the car feels "loose".

With the above issue in mind, I began to make changes to counter it. The first and most important thing I felt was to minimize chassis roll. This to me seems to be the cars Achilles heel right in front of excessive weight transfer (rear to front). I raised the roll center in the rear all the way (camber link lower inside hole on the tower) and one hole above that for the front. Most will find this change alone will have a drastic improvement.

Next, I reduced the front & rear droop. Excessive rear droop allows for a lot of weight transfer from the rear to the front on breaking and deceleration. Again during this weight transfer, the heavy rear end wants to keep on coming around. We've all found ourselves sitting 180 degrees staring at oncoming traffic. This is probably why so many are complaining of broken front bumpers!

Next, I went to a stiffer spring (from Black to Green all 4 corners) as well as increased the shock oil from 400cts. to 550cts.(all 4 corners) to further reduce weight transfer and chassis roll. The final step I took to reduce chassis roll was use a 2.4 anti-roll bar front & rear.

After taking measures to reduce chassis roll, I wanted to increase chassis stability. First step, I increased the wheel base to the maximum setting and lowered the ride height to 27mm front & rear. I also reduced rear camber from -2.5 to -1.0. I don't believe excessive negative camber is required when you have minimum chassis roll. Last, I increased the rear diff oil to 7K. I feel this offers additional stability on corner entry.

I could not believe how well the car felt this past Saturday. I handed my radio to 2 of our top local pros, and they both said the car felt extremely planted and easy to drive.

All of this is just my personal observation of the car and the thought process behind why I changed what I did. I hope you can extract something helpful from this to implement into your own set-up. Below is my set-up sheet as well as a youtube video of the track I typically run at. Medium grip (low when it's dry) and medium size layout. Good Luck!



Link to DNX408 Set-Up Sheet


+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

Last edited by strngdze; 03-07-2011 at 07:16 PM.
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Old 03-06-2011, 09:49 PM
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Talking

Good job!Thats what I am talking about, take the initiative and use your brain. Our minds are the most important tool we have, and it never hurts to stay at a Holiday Inn Express!!!!
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Old 03-07-2011, 02:36 AM
  #3071  
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for those that arn't using the stock clutch combo what other options are there?

i want to get the works or ascendency 4 shoe clutch but they only come in a 34mm. the stock setup is 36mm. Does the 34mm system work without havin to dremil the chassis?

if you are using the works or ascendency clutch what clutch bells are you using?
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Old 03-07-2011, 03:28 AM
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Ascendancy have a 36mm coming.

I'm running the JVD 34mm (same concept and manufacturer as Werks and Ascendancy) with the Hudy Star Box and it works ok. Will probably change to a 36mm when I can...
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Old 03-07-2011, 07:34 AM
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sweet! Hey, will u be racing at arc this weekend? if so, i may need help breaking in my motor. I havn't raced nitro in over 4 to 5 years!


Originally Posted by strngdze
So I've tweaked with my set-up for about 4 weeks now. I'm very happy with the progress and have come up with a base set-up that fits my driving style (100% throttle/100% brake ha ha!). I don't get the wheel time that allows me to sit at the track and test all the little changes I make, so I had to take a few blind shots in the dark based solely upon suspension theory and mechanics. I'm no suspension engineer, although I did sleep at a Holiday Inn Express last night . I'll outline below some off my observations of the cars geometry and why I changed what I did.

The cars weight is primarily located towards the rear. At first you would think this would increase traction in the rear, well it does and doesn't..Let me explain. At low speeds the additional weight keeps the rear planted, but as you increase speed and charge hard into corners this all changes drastically. Once the rear breaks loose, the excessive weight over the rear creates a pendulum effect and the rear continues around. This is compounded by excessive weight transfer to the front during breaking and sometimes just letting off the throttle. This is what I believe most are encountering when they say the car feels "loose".

With the above issue in mind, I began to make changes to counter it. The first and most important thing I felt was to minimize chassis roll. This to me seems to be the cars Achilles heel right in front of excessive weight transfer (rear to front). I raised the roll center in the rear all the way (lower inside hole on the tower) and one hole above that for the front. Most will find this change alone will have a drastic improvement.

Next, I reduced the front & rear droop. Excessive rear droop allows for a lot of weight transfer from the rear to the front on breaking and deceleration. Again during this weight transfer, the heavy rear end wants to keep on coming around. We've all found ourselves sitting 180 degrees staring at oncoming traffic. This is probably why so many are complaining of broken front bumpers!

Next, I went to a stiffer spring (from Black to Green all 4 corners) as well as increased the shock oil from 400cts. to 550cts.(all 4 corners) to further reduce weight transfer and chassis roll. The final step I took to reduce chassis roll was use a 2.4 anti-roll bar front & rear.

After taking measures to reduce chassis roll, I wanted to increase chassis stability. First step, I increased the wheel base to the maximum setting and lowered the ride height to 27mm front & rear. I also reduced rear camber from -2.5 to -1.0. I don't believe excessive negative camber is required when you have minimum chassis roll. Last, I increased the rear diff oil to 7K. I feel this offers additional stability on corner entry.

I could not believe how well the car felt this past Saturday. I handed my radio to 2 of our top local pros, and they both said the car felt extremely planted and easy to drive.

All of this is just my personal observation of the car and the thought process behind why I changed what I did. I hope you can extract something helpful from this to implement into your own set-up. Below is my set-up sheet as well as a youtube video of the track I typically run at. Medium grip (low when it's dry) and medium size layout. Good Luck!



Link to DNX408 Set-Up Sheet


+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 03-07-2011, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by strngdze
So I've tweaked with my set-up for about 4 weeks now. I'm very happy with the progress and have come up with a base set-up that fits my driving style (100% throttle/100% brake ha ha!). I don't get the wheel time that allows me to sit at the track and test all the little changes I make, so I had to take a few blind shots in the dark based solely upon suspension theory and mechanics. I'm no suspension engineer, although I did sleep at a Holiday Inn Express last night . I'll outline below some off my observations of the cars geometry and why I changed what I did.

The cars weight is primarily located towards the rear. At first you would think this would increase traction in the rear, well it does and doesn't..Let me explain. At low speeds the additional weight keeps the rear planted, but as you increase speed and charge hard into corners this all changes drastically. Once the rear breaks loose, the excessive weight over the rear creates a pendulum effect and the rear continues around. This is compounded by excessive weight transfer to the front during breaking and sometimes just letting off the throttle. This is what I believe most are encountering when they say the car feels "loose".

With the above issue in mind, I began to make changes to counter it. The first and most important thing I felt was to minimize chassis roll. This to me seems to be the cars Achilles heel right in front of excessive weight transfer (rear to front). I raised the roll center in the rear all the way (lower inside hole on the tower) and one hole above that for the front. Most will find this change alone will have a drastic improvement.

Next, I reduced the front & rear droop. Excessive rear droop allows for a lot of weight transfer from the rear to the front on breaking and deceleration. Again during this weight transfer, the heavy rear end wants to keep on coming around. We've all found ourselves sitting 180 degrees staring at oncoming traffic. This is probably why so many are complaining of broken front bumpers!

Next, I went to a stiffer spring (from Black to Green all 4 corners) as well as increased the shock oil from 400cts. to 550cts.(all 4 corners) to further reduce weight transfer and chassis roll. The final step I took to reduce chassis roll was use a 2.4 anti-roll bar front & rear.

After taking measures to reduce chassis roll, I wanted to increase chassis stability. First step, I increased the wheel base to the maximum setting and lowered the ride height to 27mm front & rear. I also reduced rear camber from -2.5 to -1.0. I don't believe excessive negative camber is required when you have minimum chassis roll. Last, I increased the rear diff oil to 7K. I feel this offers additional stability on corner entry.

I could not believe how well the car felt this past Saturday. I handed my radio to 2 of our top local pros, and they both said the car felt extremely planted and easy to drive.

All of this is just my personal observation of the car and the thought process behind why I changed what I did. I hope you can extract something helpful from this to implement into your own set-up. Below is my set-up sheet as well as a youtube video of the track I typically run at. Medium grip (low when it's dry) and medium size layout. Good Luck!



Link to DNX408 Set-Up Sheet


+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
pardon me being a rookie...

what do you mean by this ..."With the above issue in mind, I began to make changes to counter it. The first and most important thing I felt was to minimize chassis roll. This to me seems to be the cars Achilles heel right in front of excessive weight transfer (rear to front). I raised the roll center in the rear all the way (lower inside hole on the tower) and one hole above that for the front. Most will find this change alone will have a drastic improvement."

i appreciate the clarification
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Old 03-07-2011, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by teeforb
sweet! Hey, will u be racing at arc this weekend? if so, i may need help breaking in my motor. I havn't raced nitro in over 4 to 5 years!
Hey Tee,

If at all possible, you want to get at least (5) tanks cycled through that engine before Saturday if you plan to race. You do not want to try and run it in on race day. Nova’s do not loosen up until a gallon or so of fuel has been run through them. If you get 5 or 6 tanks cycled (the more the better) you will probably be safe racing with the engine set pretty fat and you’re throttle EPA set below 100%. I won’t get into any break-in techniques here, as there is a ton of info in this thread. "Engine Break-in"

It will be a long day if you decide to try and run that engine in at the track. During “run in” tuning can be a PIA. Again, the more fuel you can get through it this week, the easier life will be at the track on Saturday. I’m pretty sure you bought the Competition Heat engine warmer. Just make sure you use it every time prior to starting the engine. You’ll get a lot more life out of it for sure and your con rod will definitely thank you for it. Good Luck.
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