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Durango DNX408 - Fast enough to win the World Title.

Durango DNX408 - Fast enough to win the World Title.

Old 01-29-2011, 08:05 PM
  #2026  
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Originally Posted by rc ace
I heard that associated green slime is good for back penis
he should also check his muffler bearings and make shure his carb nuggets are working
ROFLMAO....
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Old 01-29-2011, 08:07 PM
  #2027  
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Originally Posted by HalRex
I've run three gallons through mine during which time have hit numerous pipes, had off center landings, nose dives and had some spectacular cartwheel action. Nothing broken yet. It's definately tuff.
Same here, but I'm doin it in 20-30* weather and nothing broke..
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Old 01-29-2011, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Jaf1977
If you are cracking the bumper....have you tried boiling it to soften it? It isn't a critical part so should be fine and should just have a bit more give....
The bumper part where the 2 screws sit is too small. Thats why it breaks easily.
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Old 01-29-2011, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by rc ace
I heard that associated green slime is good for back penis
he should also check his muffler bearings and make shure his carb nuggets are working
OMG ... ur killing me here ^^^^^
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Old 01-29-2011, 10:53 PM
  #2030  
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Questions?? Setup issue

Another day of practice and while making some progress with set up really struggling to find out how to correct a couple of things:
- how to stop the rear end sliding all over the place. It really is quite loose while in comparison the mugen MBX6 and 6T have good drive and grip.
- on some jumps (part of the problem is the track is deteriorating) I am finding that the rear kicks ups
- have too much front brake (it does beautiful cart wheels!!). Trying to get 60 rear and 40 front but the linkages are quite touchy.

If I could solve these the car would be great. It turns in really well and has good steering and accelerates really well.

What are some thoughts on set up?

Current set up is:

Diffs - 10, 7, 5
Front camber - -2
Rear camber -2
0 degree toe at front
Front wishbone droop 105
Rear droop 115
Front C Hub 10 degrees
Front shock poistion middle tower, outside hole bottom arm
front camber rod position 5
Rear hubs 1 degree
rear camber rod on hub position 1 (outside)
rear camber rod on tower position 5
rear shocks middle on tower and outside hole on arm
toe / kick 3 x 3
rear hub spacers - 4mm front of hub
front shocks 550 wt
blue spring
50% rebound
3mm preload
1.3 x 6 piston
Rear shock 600 wt
losi green spring (still waiting on Durango springs!)
50% rebound
preload 5mm
1.4 x 6 piston
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Old 01-29-2011, 11:51 PM
  #2031  
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Mate what Clutch Setup are you running?

I use a Losi 4 Shoe, 2 Carbon , 2 Ali, with my OS Speed on the DNX. I find it smoother than the Stock Durango Clutch and alot easier to drive.

Springs Sets are now suppose to be advailable from Venom, going by the Email I recieved the other day.

As for other Parts? I'll let you know.
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Old 01-30-2011, 12:46 AM
  #2032  
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Using the fioroni 3 shoe clutch (2 alum and one carbon). Setting was originally on 3 (goes from 3 to 5) and today was on 4 (medium).

Parts availability in Australia has been a major problem. Not sure why it has taken so long for LHS to get stock. It is a pain having to buy from overseas.
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Old 01-30-2011, 05:55 AM
  #2033  
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Ok, I found one area of the car that I would snatch up a hop up for... shock pistons. Mine weren't undersized but I had a bunch of flashing on them. I spent 20-30 minutes trimming them up a bit only to have one shock perform beautifully and the other have so much friction it stopped in the body wherever you left it. I only built the fronts yesterday. I'm going to try and turn the rears in a dremel and chamfer the top and bottom edges to see if that helps today. I just see having some serious issues getting identically sized pistons front and rear. Durango, please give us some machined delrin shock pistons, please!
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Old 01-30-2011, 06:26 AM
  #2034  
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Originally Posted by rc_pro
Many problems in DNX 408
Recently I purchased the car 408 has traveled four days of track arranged
1) The vehicle began to develop many vacations at the front and back
Many costumes shock absorber parts
2) touching the rear brake carburetor
3) to put the engine has to rub parts
4) all servo system to prevent transformation Abishbil reported to deteriorate
5) exhaust and burning the touch of a battery box
6) not all suitable bell
7) created a large freedom of the turret back penis what should replace turret penis
8) Ahabmfr broken front
9) bulimia bar does not close all the way out of the house
10) Most Strterbux Car inappropriate
11) Red nut that locks the bulimia was opened many times and created Freedom Cup

Does yours have these problems if you have any solutions.
Is Mischa know if Durango working on solutions when they reach us.
Happy to receive ideas and responses
Thanks in advance
This is too good! Makes me forget the bad luck I had at the track today.
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Old 01-30-2011, 06:59 AM
  #2035  
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Originally Posted by rc_pro
Many problems in DNX 408
Recently I purchased the car 408 has traveled four days of track arranged
1) The vehicle began to develop many vacations at the front and back
Many costumes shock absorber parts
2) touching the rear brake carburetor
3) to put the engine has to rub parts
4) all servo system to prevent transformation Abishbil reported to deteriorate
5) exhaust and burning the touch of a battery box
6) not all suitable bell
7) created a large freedom of the turret back penis what should replace turret penis
8) Ahabmfr broken front
9) bulimia bar does not close all the way out of the house
10) Most Strterbux Car inappropriate
11) Red nut that locks the bulimia was opened many times and created Freedom Cup

Does yours have these problems if you have any solutions.
Is Mischa know if Durango working on solutions when they reach us.
Happy to receive ideas and responses
Thanks in advance
Originally Posted by pointforward
This is too good! Makes me forget the bad luck I had at the track today.
can you say ICECEAM
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Old 01-30-2011, 07:43 AM
  #2036  
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Originally Posted by rc_pro
Many problems in DNX 408
Recently I purchased the car 408 has traveled four days of track arranged
1) The vehicle began to develop many vacations at the front and back
Many costumes shock absorber parts
2) touching the rear brake carburetor
3) to put the engine has to rub parts
4) all servo system to prevent transformation Abishbil reported to deteriorate
5) exhaust and burning the touch of a battery box
6) not all suitable bell
7) created a large freedom of the turret back penis what should replace turret penis
8) Ahabmfr broken front
9) bulimia bar does not close all the way out of the house
10) Most Strterbux Car inappropriate
11) Red nut that locks the bulimia was opened many times and created Freedom Cup

Does yours have these problems if you have any solutions.
Is Mischa know if Durango working on solutions when they reach us.
Happy to receive ideas and responses
Thanks in advance
I don't care who you are, this is good stuff! ROTFLMAO!!!! Is this real? Really need to find a better translator if you are serious. LMFAO
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Old 01-30-2011, 08:29 AM
  #2037  
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I raced my dnx Yesterday and it worked great. 3 - 7 min quals and a 20 min main on the tight demolition derby track that they stacked 13 buggys on. What a race. Nothing broken here. I modded a de Mugen bumper to fit and so far so good. I fixed the issue I was having with the brakes. I didn't have enough so I screwed the pads closed a little bit and now the brakes are insane. This is a great buggy and I can buy my own damm ice cream. I don't need any drop shipped from overseas.

Great buggy IMO.
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Old 01-30-2011, 08:42 AM
  #2038  
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Originally Posted by 3DRCRACER
I don't care who you are, this is good stuff! ROTFLMAO!!!! Is this real? Really need to find a better translator if you are serious. LMFAO
This is a great way to run off someone who could provide valuable information as well as feedback in the future..

This thread, as well as the JQ thread, is becoming very LOSI-like.
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Old 01-30-2011, 09:22 AM
  #2039  
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Originally Posted by waynej
Another day of practice and while making some progress with set up really struggling to find out how to correct a couple of things:
- how to stop the rear end sliding all over the place. It really is quite loose while in comparison the mugen MBX6 and 6T have good drive and grip.
- on some jumps (part of the problem is the track is deteriorating) I am finding that the rear kicks ups
- have too much front brake (it does beautiful cart wheels!!). Trying to get 60 rear and 40 front but the linkages are quite touchy.

If I could solve these the car would be great. It turns in really well and has good steering and accelerates really well.

What are some thoughts on set up?

Current set up is:

Diffs - 10, 7, 5
Front camber - -2
Rear camber -2
0 degree toe at front
Front wishbone droop 105
Rear droop 115
Front C Hub 10 degrees
Front shock poistion middle tower, outside hole bottom arm
front camber rod position 5
Rear hubs 1 degree
rear camber rod on hub position 1 (outside)
rear camber rod on tower position 5
rear shocks middle on tower and outside hole on arm
toe / kick 3 x 3
rear hub spacers - 4mm front of hub
front shocks 550 wt
blue spring
50% rebound
3mm preload
1.3 x 6 piston
Rear shock 600 wt
losi green spring (still waiting on Durango springs!)
50% rebound
preload 5mm
1.4 x 6 piston
I'd try lighter oil in the rear shocks to help with the rear kicking up over some jumps. Also, what is your ride height set to for the front/rear. If you have your rear higher you may want to lower it to the same as the front. This can help rear traction and stability. Also, try moving your rear hubs to full forward by placing both spacers behind them. The only other thing that stands out a bit to me is your use of zero toe in the front. I often find buggies much more stable with 1 to 2 degrees toe out in the front.

I will agree that with as much steering as the Durango has, planting the rear can be a challenge for those of us not used to driving loose machines. At some point I'll probably experiment with tire selection as well. Using a tire with more side-bite on the rear v.s. the front may be an option. For instance, AKA Cityblocks on the rear with I-Beams up front. I'd prefer the solve the problem with tweaks to the chassis/suspension setup but tire selection is a valid option as well.

I'm no tuning pro but that's what I'd try. Others with more experience with the 408 may have better suggestions.

Regarding the brakes, make tiny adjustments. To get more rear brake v.s. front shorten the bias link. But again, adjusting the brakes on the 408 is like tuning a carb needle. Go in 1 to 2 hour increments.
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Old 01-30-2011, 09:25 AM
  #2040  
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Originally Posted by t8rtot
This is a great way to run off someone who could provide valuable information as well as feedback in the future..

This thread, as well as the JQ thread, is becoming very LOSI-like.
JQ Losi like. Hummm I haven't seen that at all but who knows.
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