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Durango DNX408 - Fast enough to win the World Title.

Durango DNX408 - Fast enough to win the World Title.

Old 01-11-2011, 05:15 PM
  #1531  
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Originally Posted by Beagle32
Hey Guys,

I just finished building my DNX408 and it is only the second kit i have ever built. I do have a couple of years of experience wrenching though. It was not to bad as long as you pay attention to detail. I use to race motocross for over 15 years and now i am married and cant afford to get hurt. This hobby is the next best thing for me. I am working on coming up with a paint job for the body right now and will post photos as soon as i get done painting the body.

As for the buggy, I hope this thing drives as good as it looks. haha. I used the same setup as msconceptson the previous page, but went 10-10-5 in the diffs. I might need to lower the center a little but havent got to drive it yet due to the snow here in north Ga. Thank You TD for making a buggy that is awesome. I just wish it had a clear or white fuel tank as to see the fuel better. I hope you come out with a tank like this for us. If you are questioning whether or not to get this ride, DONT, it is very nice and goes together cleanly. Thank you Team Durango.

- Ryan Bevil
try 7-7-4 you will like it alot betterr...... i tried heiver diff oils but found this alot better
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Old 01-11-2011, 09:15 PM
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Hi Guys --Need some advice:

Drive shafts... Two large 0.1mm shims on the inside of the hubs, I could only get in one..very tight and they are not 15mm but much bigger.
What would the purpose be of these shims.

Also, the shock piston is a loose fit......

I grind the droop screws flat as not to "eat" into the chassis. Would be nice if Durango could get the same ones as Xray.

Awesome to build well designed.

Thanks
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Old 01-11-2011, 09:31 PM
  #1533  
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Originally Posted by Mater
Hi Guys --Need some advice:

Drive shafts... Two large 0.1mm shims on the inside of the hubs, I could only get in one..very tight and they are not 15mm but much bigger.
What would the purpose be of these shims.

Also, the shock piston is a loose fit......

I grind the droop screws flat as not to "eat" into the chassis. Would be nice if Durango could get the same ones as Xray.

Awesome to build well designed.

Thanks
Right out of the box, one washer behind the hubs should be sufficient. The extra washers are there to eliminate plays when the parts start to wear; they aren't meant to all be installed OOP.

Shock pistons: loose fit as in inconsistent contact with the shock body, or the piston is wobbly on the shaft? If it's the former, you may have damaged the piston when removing it from the sprue. If it's the latter, make sure you added the washer as per the instructions and tighten the screw all the way into the shaft; the assembly should be snug when built correctly.
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Old 01-11-2011, 09:59 PM
  #1534  
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The shims are just in case, bu they are the wrong size. I can't find any shims that fit the center axle bearings either. the wheel bearings are fine with the one small shim that fits right on the outside, but with all the precision in this car, some shims that fit would have been nice to have.... 15mm inner diameter, and in several thicknesses.....
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Old 01-12-2011, 02:52 AM
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Shock pistons: loose fit as in inconsistent contact with the shock body, or the piston is wobbly on the shaft? If it's the former, you may have damaged the piston when removing it from the sprue. If it's the latter, make sure you added the washer as per the instructions and tighten the screw all the way into the shaft; the assembly should be snug when built correctly.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the info. No the piston is actually to small for the shock body. On all the other kits I have built, the pistons had no play inside the shock body.Maybe it was designed this way but is does make the shaft move side to side a bit when the shock is extended
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Old 01-12-2011, 07:04 AM
  #1536  
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Originally Posted by Mater
Shock pistons: loose fit as in inconsistent contact with the shock body, or the piston is wobbly on the shaft? If it's the former, you may have damaged the piston when removing it from the sprue. If it's the latter, make sure you added the washer as per the instructions and tighten the screw all the way into the shaft; the assembly should be snug when built correctly.
Thanks for the info. No the piston is actually to small for the shock body. On all the other kits I have built, the pistons had no play inside the shock body.Maybe it was designed this way but is does make the shaft move side to side a bit when the shock is extended[/QUOTE]

Pics?

I don't think that anyone else has experienced this issue so far. Are you sure you have the actual pistons and not another similar part?
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Old 01-12-2011, 07:14 AM
  #1537  
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Originally Posted by Mater
Thanks for the info. No the piston is actually to small for the shock body. On all the other kits I have built, the pistons had no play inside the shock body.Maybe it was designed this way but is does make the shaft move side to side a bit when the shock is extended
Hrm... the pistons in my kit fit my shock bodies fine, without much play at all. No different than the way the pistons fit in my Losi's shocks. I'd check the part number on the tree your pistons came off of and make sure it matches the tree # listed in the manual. Either way I'd also contact TD, I'm sure they'll make it right.
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Old 01-12-2011, 09:12 AM
  #1538  
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You guys might want to take a dremel to the chassis and widen the window underneath the flywheel. Out of the box at 9.6 mm it's just ever so slightly wider than the typical starter box wheel, and you might find yourself jaming the rubber wheel. Especially with the flywheel further in then other kits.

In the heat of the race, getting flywheel to starter wheel quickly would shave a few secs!
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Old 01-12-2011, 09:55 AM
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+1 for dremeling the chassis to widen the window underneath the flywheel.

About the shock piston i also found that there's more play than on the mbx6 ones. BTW it seems that MBX6 pistons could be used (and have less play with the DNX schock body), but it would require to widen the hole for the shaft.

Did anyone use sealant between the RX battery box and the metal bottom ?

On a side note i did cut the top plastic part of the radio box so that i can change the RX battery without impacting the receiver side.
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Old 01-12-2011, 02:45 PM
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On the titanium screw lists that were sent out the following needs to be added

(2) 3x25 button head
These screws go through the rear arms and attach the rear shocks at the bottom.
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Old 01-12-2011, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank L
On the titanium screw lists that were sent out the following needs to be added

(2) 3x25 button head
These screws go through the rear arms and attach the rear shocks at the bottom.
Where is this list?
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Old 01-12-2011, 04:41 PM
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PM Me your email for the ti screw list
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Old 01-12-2011, 04:47 PM
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Hey Guys
I run a Mugen but a buddy of mine got one of these and is having soem issues and he doesnt get on here so maybe you guys can help...
his shock pistons are smaller than the shock bodies..is this normal???
also the stock shock oil seems waaaaaay to stiff. any thoughts on this?? and one more thing he did the brake pad washer thingy so he has brakes but whats up with the throttle linkage brace thingy it has a ton of flex...is this a common thing also??
and what is a good starting diff oil set up?
thanks from George
MO
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Old 01-12-2011, 05:36 PM
  #1544  
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Originally Posted by Mo Denton
Hey Guys
I run a Mugen but a buddy of mine got one of these and is having soem issues and he doesnt get on here so maybe you guys can help...
his shock pistons are smaller than the shock bodies..is this normal???
also the stock shock oil seems waaaaaay to stiff. any thoughts on this?? and one more thing he did the brake pad washer thingy so he has brakes but whats up with the throttle linkage brace thingy it has a ton of flex...is this a common thing also??
and what is a good starting diff oil set up?
thanks from George
MO
Yes, for me the stock shock oil (600ct) was too heavy. As a base setup I switched to the A (1.3mm) pistons all around and put 500ct oil in the front and 450ct in the rear. I kept the stock blue Durango springs on the front but switched to Losi green springs on the rear. On the bench the suspension feels pretty good. It doesn't bottom out when dropped from about three feet and the rebound is nice and controlled. Soon I will hopefully be able to do some track testing.

For diffs I built mine to the kit specs, which is 7.7.2. Lutz states that this vehicle likes thicker diff fluids than other vehicles but since I haven't been able to get mine in the dirt yet I haven't done any testing myself.

As for the throttle linkage, it doesn't flex much at all when you get the entire linkage assembly properly set up and adjusted. Follow the directions here:

http://www.team-durango.com/blog/?p=2100

Lastly, your friend isn't the first to observe that his pistons seem too small for the shock bodies. However, when building mine I didn't notice this. They seemed to fit just right to me. They have about the same fit as the pistons in my Losi shocks.
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Old 01-12-2011, 09:25 PM
  #1545  
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Well here are some pics.
Mugen -15.02 and piston 15.00



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