Rc8T Tuggy Turning
11-06-2010, 12:00 PM
#1
Rc8T Tuggy Turning
Hey guys I have the RC8T Truggy It pushs really bad when you come in to the corrners I have to Slow way down and get off the gas be for it tuns at all and then its not anything good all my stuff is working Must be in the setup I have it all set to factory setting 
11-06-2010, 12:10 PM
#3
Is it the RTR or kit version? Reason I ask is it maybe the diffs need to be setup with fluid to help with your off power turning. The rtr comes with grease I do believe. Also check your servo saver, if it's loose it may be slipping causing you to not turn your wheels all the way when you hit the corner with pressure on it. And do you have your end points set for the steering servo? Are you getting a full left to right turn? What steering servo are you running, it may not have enough torque?
11-06-2010, 12:16 PM
#4
The RTR comes with 777 in it. I bet it is one of two things.
1) I think you need to tighten your servo saver. That's my #1 guess!
2) The factory setup comes with 0 front toe (wheels straight forward). I set mine out to 2* and readjusted my camber and this thing turns on a dime now.
Assuming you have a good steering servo and not the RTR one I would almost bet money it's your servo saver. If that's not it, give it a couple degrees toe out.
If your using the RTR servo replace it IMMEDIATELY! It won't hardly turn the wheels at all. (111 oz.) That's way too weak. You need at least 250oz.! I've learned a lot about this truck this year. There is also a complete thread on here for you to ask your questions on in the future. It's title is Team Associated 1/8 Scale Truggy Info and Tips.
Good Luck,
Rich
1) I think you need to tighten your servo saver. That's my #1 guess!
2) The factory setup comes with 0 front toe (wheels straight forward). I set mine out to 2* and readjusted my camber and this thing turns on a dime now.
Assuming you have a good steering servo and not the RTR one I would almost bet money it's your servo saver. If that's not it, give it a couple degrees toe out.
If your using the RTR servo replace it IMMEDIATELY! It won't hardly turn the wheels at all. (111 oz.) That's way too weak. You need at least 250oz.! I've learned a lot about this truck this year. There is also a complete thread on here for you to ask your questions on in the future. It's title is Team Associated 1/8 Scale Truggy Info and Tips.
Good Luck,
Rich
11-06-2010, 12:28 PM
#6
While that was awesome for you to post that for him MGT I think your getting over his head. (He's only been on the forum a month or 2 and might not have a grasp on everything yet) I think he needs to check the simple things first then do single adjustments at a time so he can learn what they do so he'll know what he needs to do with the setup. I put a setup on mine as soon as I got it and it's actually running good now but I didn't learn anything.
My suggestion would be to write down that setup as well as others and then do them one at a time to see how it effects the truck.
You'll learn more about your truck, setup, and driving that way in my opinion. But, it's up to you buddy. Good Luck!
My suggestion would be to write down that setup as well as others and then do them one at a time to see how it effects the truck.
You'll learn more about your truck, setup, and driving that way in my opinion. But, it's up to you buddy. Good Luck!
11-06-2010, 12:32 PM
#7
ohh yeah check that servo saver.
Mine was turning really bad, and I got to looking at the steering and I seen the servo saver nut was touching the chassis. So I tightened it up.
What a pain they are to tighten when they are on the bottom against the chassis.
Maybe someday AE will put them at the top where they can be turned by fingers instead of needle nose vise grips.
Mine was turning really bad, and I got to looking at the steering and I seen the servo saver nut was touching the chassis. So I tightened it up.
What a pain they are to tighten when they are on the bottom against the chassis.
Maybe someday AE will put them at the top where they can be turned by fingers instead of needle nose vise grips.
11-06-2010, 12:34 PM
#8
+1 I feel your pain!
11-06-2010, 12:51 PM
#10
80-90% is tires, 10-20% is setup...
11-06-2010, 12:52 PM
#11
I'll check it out, It may be something I've learned from ShaneRacer already. Sometimes I find a lot of help in there. Other times, it's dead for weeks. It's hit or miss.
ShaneRacer and Brandon Melton are the go to guys on here for AE questions. They are both VERY fast driver's (Right with Drake and Robber's at the Ohio State Shootout.) And, very knowledgeable on all things Associated.
ShaneRacer and Brandon Melton are the go to guys on here for AE questions. They are both VERY fast driver's (Right with Drake and Robber's at the Ohio State Shootout.) And, very knowledgeable on all things Associated.
11-06-2010, 01:00 PM
#12
11-06-2010, 02:14 PM
#13
I can honestly say I have the same problem with my truck.
I've been told to go to an aluminum servo horn and to change the rear toe but haven't gotten around to doing it yet.
I guess I like how it drives so i haven't really wanted to change it all that much.
I've been told to go to an aluminum servo horn and to change the rear toe but haven't gotten around to doing it yet.
I guess I like how it drives so i haven't really wanted to change it all that much.
11-06-2010, 02:32 PM
#14
It might be that your driving style just doesn't suit the setup. My RC8T turns on a dime, off power. It's a slight push through mid then tail happy on exit. But, I love it like that.
I set my brake bias up to give me more rear brakes. I come into the corner hard, tap the brakes just enough to unload the rear tires and get a little rotation, hit my apex, square up and go. I've tried drift style driving. It just pushed on entrance and got too loose on exit.
Now I'm not the best driver by any means. I've never placed over 3rd in a sportsman class but I haven't been racing long either. But, these are my observations and what I believe to be true. As always, do some research for yourself, I may be incorrect or leaving something out.
I set my brake bias up to give me more rear brakes. I come into the corner hard, tap the brakes just enough to unload the rear tires and get a little rotation, hit my apex, square up and go. I've tried drift style driving. It just pushed on entrance and got too loose on exit.
Now I'm not the best driver by any means. I've never placed over 3rd in a sportsman class but I haven't been racing long either. But, these are my observations and what I believe to be true. As always, do some research for yourself, I may be incorrect or leaving something out.
11-06-2010, 04:33 PM
#15
SET UP
Man thanks guys
Ok i have the RTR I have changed the radio to Futaba 3 pk I have the Hobbico cs 170 servos (Turning and Gas) I have the Racers Edeg Servo Horns ( On Tight with Lock tight Just Checked To see they are not slipping) I Do have a Used set of Panter tires on AkA Rims (Soft) And Yes I really new to this sport And Some times all the fancey wording gets me But Iam learning slowly I have changed the front Cast angel to 18Degrees just by moving the shimms to the back of the upper Caster Block Thanks for all your Help guys
Ok i have the RTR I have changed the radio to Futaba 3 pk I have the Hobbico cs 170 servos (Turning and Gas) I have the Racers Edeg Servo Horns ( On Tight with Lock tight Just Checked To see they are not slipping) I Do have a Used set of Panter tires on AkA Rims (Soft) And Yes I really new to this sport And Some times all the fancey wording gets me But Iam learning slowly I have changed the front Cast angel to 18Degrees just by moving the shimms to the back of the upper Caster Block Thanks for all your Help guys