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Old 12-10-2012, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by chicky03 View Post
Do you have the TE or old kit? That way I know if you have the new diff gears. If you have the te I like 15/20/10. Old gears 7/10/5 or 3
TE , someone mentioned going higher on all diff. So, 15/20/10 ? I'm using 5/7/3
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Old 12-10-2012, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Panda-PR View Post
TE , someone mentioned going higher on all diff. So, 15/20/10 ? I'm using 5/7/3
Yea 5/7/3 is WAY too light.
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Old 12-10-2012, 09:23 AM
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Does anyone know what drive pins fit the front center drive shafts? I'm running the gen1 truggy and I went to replace my drive pins last night and the front center pin must be a different size. I used the Hudy replacement drive pins and the rear went good, nice and tight. But the front was loose and just fell right out. I had to put the old worn out pin back in because I do not have any other replacement pins. I can't figure this out.
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Old 12-10-2012, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by takis View Post
thank you very much for your answer!
do you know which parts are different?

thanks again
The TE truggy kit does NOT come with alum shock towers and hard ano shock caps. The differences btwn gen1 truggy and new team truggy are...
V2 Diff Gears - 600627 (x3)
Upright-wheelaxle set 811T v2 - 600506
Gear coupler set (Rear) 811T v3 (uses orig rr center shaft) - 600508
Gear coupler set (Frt) 811T v3 (includes new ft ctr shaft) - 600507
Steeringblock-wheelaxle set 811T v2 - (uses orig 142mm bones) - 600503

The gen1 truggy is a fantastic truggy. If you can pick one up greatly discounted, by all means do so. However if the price is only a marginal difference, then go with the new team kit.
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Old 12-10-2012, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by J_Fitz View Post
Does anyone know what drive pins fit the front center drive shafts? I'm running the gen1 truggy and I went to replace my drive pins last night and the front center pin must be a different size. I used the Hudy replacement drive pins and the rear went good, nice and tight. But the front was loose and just fell right out. I had to put the old worn out pin back in because I do not have any other replacement pins. I can't figure this out.
I know you will not believe me but I replaced the front and rear center driveshaft pin (Dan's too) with Hudy p/n 106050 (3mmx14mm). Heck I even used your pin tool to do it. LOL

Search back and there are some posts in this thread talking about different brand pins, some worked while others fell right through. I agree, very odd the pin fit the rear center but not the front center drive shaft.

I measured the pin in one of my left over gen 1 front center drive shafts and its 3x13mm. Serpent has a pin in this size, its part number SER110210 bag of 10.
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Old 12-10-2012, 08:45 PM
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I just orderd a 811T and was wondering what parts were the worst (everyone tells me the parts dont break and they were good) but i want to know what I should order to keep on hand. Thanks
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Old 12-10-2012, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by metalbart View Post
I just orderd a 811T and was wondering what parts were the worst (everyone tells me the parts dont break and they were good) but i want to know what I should order to keep on hand. Thanks
Font and rear axels, shock stand off, upgrade the wing stay support to alum and that's about it. I have broke an arm on the buggy but not on the truggy. These cars are crazy tough.
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Old 12-10-2012, 09:31 PM
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Well- for spares only, I'd say a fuel tank, front arms (haven't broken one yet, but if you hit some unmovable object...), outer and inner wheel bearings, flanged diff bearings, suspension toe inserts.

You may want to look into some upgrades though, aluminum towers, webbed bladders, hard Annie shock caps (the TE comes with them), aluminum chassis braces, aluminum servo arms, hard servo saver spring.

But you really
Won't break parts haha. I guess eventually the out drives and driveshaft pins need to be replaced too
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Old 12-10-2012, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Frank L View Post
Font and rear axels, shock stand off, upgrade the wing stay support to alum and that's about it. I have broke an arm on the buggy but not on the truggy. These cars are crazy tough.


+1000 these cars are indeed crazy tough LOL ! the plastic is the toughest I have seen, and when you build the car you really have to work to thread int ot he plastics, its no joke the car is crazy durable !!!...
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Old 12-11-2012, 06:29 AM
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Well said Maximo...the plastic is ridiculously strong. When I built my TE kit I used socket head screws (3mm & 4mm) with drop of oil and pre-threaded every single hole in the plastic. Lesson I learned from stripping quite a few screw heads on my original gen 1 kit.

For basic upgrades...
1. Web shock bladders
2. Hard servo saver spring (incl in TE kit)
3. Rear alum chassis brace
4. Rear alum wing brace
5. Front alum shock tower (not necessary but some have broken OEM tower running shocks in far outside hole)

Recommended basic spares...
1. Inner/Outer hub bearings
2. Shock ends
3. Susp bushings
4. Inner hinge pins
5. Shock mount bushings
6. We all carry spare arms, but this truck is ridiculously tough...never broke an arm (knocks on wood) after some highlight reel crashes.

Some tips I've learned along the way...
1. Replace OEM rear toe plate 3x40mm FH with same size but not threaded the length of the screw. I picked some up from Tony's screws, have not stripped one of those yet.

2. Place a drop of CA on the screw that secures the Option 3 steering plate to the plastic bellcrank. This mitigates the risk of the screw backing out.

3. It's ok to shim the diffs inside the bulkhead to and them be 'notchy', just let them wear in. If you shim them smooth when new, the front diff may skip on the pinion under braking.

4. Kit comes with plastic 3mm locknuts. These are fine inside the bulkhead but I've replaced them with metal locknuts especially on the front/rear links.

5. Front inside camber link, replace OEM screw with 3x20mm BH, install 3mm metal locknut on the back side to mitigate the locktite breaking lose and the screw backing out.

6. Replace OEM 3x12mm BH screws securing tank to chassis with longer 3x20mm BH screws, this mitigates risk of tank posts snapping right at the point they taper down.

7. Reinforce the OEM body with shoe-goo/drywall tape above the shock towers and in the rear wheel well area. I also oval out the holes for the body mounts to allow the body a bit of front/rear movement.

8. Gen 1 kits, pay close attention to the location of the CVD pin in the axle, front the pin is in the inner row while the rear the pin goes in the outer hole. This is no longer an issue with the TE as it uses different axles and there is only one row of holes.

9. Use body reamer to open up the holes for the lower shock pins in the rear mud guards. Dont go crazy...just enough so the pins are easier to install/remove. I've also replaced the OEM set screws with those a 1mm or so longer. Just go EASY when tightening the set screws. If you strip them out, no worries...use a drop of CA.

10. When installing the Anti-roll bar nut on the arms, go very slowly and triple check you've threaded them properly. I found the 12mm standard (not deep well) socket starting out with finger tight first works best, then use tighten using ratchet/driver. Maybe its me but I've struggled with these.

11. Most importantly, have fun and share your experiences with the truck. We all benefit from the lessons learned, I hope my sharing helps those who might be new to the Cobra-T.

Thanks and Merry Christmas!
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Old 12-11-2012, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by scrapsz View Post
Well said Maximo...the plastic is ridiculously strong. When I built my TE kit I used socket head screws (3mm & 4mm) with drop of oil and pre-threaded every single hole in the plastic. Lesson I learned from stripping quite a few screw heads on my original gen 1 kit.

For basic upgrades...
1. Web shock bladders
2. Hard servo saver spring (incl in TE kit)
3. Rear alum chassis brace
4. Rear alum wing brace
5. Front alum shock tower (not necessary but some have broken OEM tower running shocks in far outside hole)

Recommended basic spares...
1. Inner/Outer hub bearings
2. Shock ends
3. Susp bushings
4. Inner hinge pins
5. Shock mount bushings
6. We all carry spare arms, but this truck is ridiculously tough...never broke an arm (knocks on wood) after some highlight reel crashes.

Some tips I've learned along the way...
1. Replace OEM rear toe plate 3x40mm FH with same size but not threaded the length of the screw. I picked some up from Tony's screws, have not stripped one of those yet.

2. Place a drop of CA on the screw that secures the Option 3 steering plate to the plastic bellcrank. This mitigates the risk of the screw backing out.

3. It's ok to shim the diffs inside the bulkhead to and them be 'notchy', just let them wear in. If you shim them smooth when new, the front diff may skip on the pinion under braking.

4. Kit comes with plastic 3mm locknuts. These are fine inside the bulkhead but I've replaced them with metal locknuts especially on the front/rear links.

5. Front inside camber link, replace OEM screw with 3x20mm BH, install 3mm metal locknut on the back side to mitigate the locktite breaking lose and the screw backing out.

6. Replace OEM 3x12mm BH screws securing tank to chassis with longer 3x20mm BH screws, this mitigates risk of tank posts snapping right at the point they taper down.

7. Reinforce the OEM body with shoe-goo/drywall tape above the shock towers and in the rear wheel well area. I also oval out the holes for the body mounts to allow the body a bit of front/rear movement.

8. Gen 1 kits, pay close attention to the location of the CVD pin in the axle, front the pin is in the inner row while the rear the pin goes in the outer hole. This is no longer an issue with the TE as it uses different axles and there is only one row of holes.

9. Use body reamer to open up the holes for the lower shock pins in the rear mud guards. Dont go crazy...just enough so the pins are easier to install/remove. I've also replaced the OEM set screws with those a 1mm or so longer. Just go EASY when tightening the set screws. If you strip them out, no worries...use a drop of CA.

10. When installing the Anti-roll bar nut on the arms, go very slowly and triple check you've threaded them properly. I found the 12mm standard (not deep well) socket starting out with finger tight first works best, then use tighten using ratchet/driver. Maybe its me but I've struggled with these.

11. Most importantly, have fun and share your experiences with the truck. We all benefit from the lessons learned, I hope my sharing helps those who might be new to the Cobra-T.

Thanks and Merry Christmas!
Wow that's a lot of help thanks to all so far (NOT BEING RUDE)
Now if I can get rid of my d8t ill be able to order back up parts
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Old 12-15-2012, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by scrapsz View Post
Well said Maximo...the plastic is ridiculously strong. When I built my TE kit I used socket head screws (3mm & 4mm) with drop of oil and pre-threaded every single hole in the plastic. Lesson I learned from stripping quite a few screw heads on my original gen 1 kit.

For basic upgrades...
1. Web shock bladders
2. Hard servo saver spring (incl in TE kit)
3. Rear alum chassis brace
4. Rear alum wing brace
5. Front alum shock tower (not necessary but some have broken OEM tower running shocks in far outside hole)

Recommended basic spares...
1. Inner/Outer hub bearings
2. Shock ends
3. Susp bushings
4. Inner hinge pins
5. Shock mount bushings
6. We all carry spare arms, but this truck is ridiculously tough...never broke an arm (knocks on wood) after some highlight reel crashes.

Some tips I've learned along the way...
1. Replace OEM rear toe plate 3x40mm FH with same size but not threaded the length of the screw. I picked some up from Tony's screws, have not stripped one of those yet.

2. Place a drop of CA on the screw that secures the Option 3 steering plate to the plastic bellcrank. This mitigates the risk of the screw backing out.

3. It's ok to shim the diffs inside the bulkhead to and them be 'notchy', just let them wear in. If you shim them smooth when new, the front diff may skip on the pinion under braking.

4. Kit comes with plastic 3mm locknuts. These are fine inside the bulkhead but I've replaced them with metal locknuts especially on the front/rear links.

5. Front inside camber link, replace OEM screw with 3x20mm BH, install 3mm metal locknut on the back side to mitigate the locktite breaking lose and the screw backing out.

6. Replace OEM 3x12mm BH screws securing tank to chassis with longer 3x20mm BH screws, this mitigates risk of tank posts snapping right at the point they taper down.

7. Reinforce the OEM body with shoe-goo/drywall tape above the shock towers and in the rear wheel well area. I also oval out the holes for the body mounts to allow the body a bit of front/rear movement.

8. Gen 1 kits, pay close attention to the location of the CVD pin in the axle, front the pin is in the inner row while the rear the pin goes in the outer hole. This is no longer an issue with the TE as it uses different axles and there is only one row of holes.

9. Use body reamer to open up the holes for the lower shock pins in the rear mud guards. Dont go crazy...just enough so the pins are easier to install/remove. I've also replaced the OEM set screws with those a 1mm or so longer. Just go EASY when tightening the set screws. If you strip them out, no worries...use a drop of CA.

10. When installing the Anti-roll bar nut on the arms, go very slowly and triple check you've threaded them properly. I found the 12mm standard (not deep well) socket starting out with finger tight first works best, then use tighten using ratchet/driver. Maybe its me but I've struggled with these.

11. Most importantly, have fun and share your experiences with the truck. We all benefit from the lessons learned, I hope my sharing helps those who might be new to the Cobra-T.

Thanks and Merry Christmas!
Wow! Thanks!
Alum wing brace? This one?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...unt-Post-Set-2
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Old 12-15-2012, 06:03 PM
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^^^^ correct wing brace parts ^^^^
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Old 12-15-2012, 06:25 PM
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Nice write up also pickup some springs front and rear. Also tapered piston or Csi pistons these make for a nice shock transition. Serpent makes quality kits super super durable its actually crazy how well these kits wear very long lasting.
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Old 12-15-2012, 06:45 PM
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Ok so I was going to get a new one but went with a used one with all team opts on for the most part. Had it out driving it and wow can't wait to get to the track with it.
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