808gx7r

this is the 3rd servo i've burnt out.

as throttle/brake in my xray 808

i set my epas correctly, but yet i burn them after 1-3 runs.

what the hell is going on?

already cost me $300.00 on servos...

mcion

iTrader: (32)

Are you mounting them with grommetts?

Dredd

My guess is chassis flex on jumps and it bangs into the servo housing. There's ways to help with this such as shimming it a bit so it sits higher.

deadmancourt

iTrader: (11)

make sure the linkage for the throttle is straight!...meaning PERFECTLY horizontal!...OH and start running Hitec servos!,Because if you smoke them you can just take them straight back to where you got them and they should replace them!...FOR FREE!....Hitec is the only servo company that allows hobby shops to just swap out servos for free! as long as it wasnt caught on fire or smashed or whatnot!

808gx7r

yes i use servo grommets, but it cant be chassis flex as i havnt been to a track in ages... i burnt one out in the park today and i barly touched full throttle or full brake

it cant be perfect because my carb sits different.(gx7r) but i am using a aftermarket alloy arm.
will try some stock plastic ones. as they have more mounting positions.

merdith6

iTrader: (3)

also On the EPA. The chassis flexes a lot, and if you set the high speed epa to go all the way until the carb opens completely it could theoretically harm the servo. Limit the throttle throw to have about 2mm play in it with the trigger pulled all the way. Check this by pulling the trigger all the way, and then grabbing the throttle rod and pulling it. It should pull out farther than the epa is set....

Also. If you adjust the brake pads a bit closer you can reduce the brake throw a bit so the servo doesn't have to work so hard to stop the car....

I hope this helps......

tc5 man

+1 thats the way i set my throttle epa and that is true about the servo doesnt have work as hard if you adjust the brake pads closer they seem to work better that way too ! but i have my throttle linkage where theres about 1mm pull.


also what really helps is a extended one piece engine mount it gets rid of that flex.

808gx7r

mine goes 2-3mm xtra after "full throttle" as with these long needle engines tunes change when you have it go further then the opening

Bren Ralls

Check the return spring length on the throttle linkage. Depending on where you set your brakes found on mine it gets coil bound & loads the servo if not adjusted, so just chop a bit of. EPA is the other area to look at but your on top of thaqt..

ganymede

iTrader: (2)

What servos are you running? Did you mount it CLEAR off the chassis? You said you used the rubber grommets but did you loosen it up a bit for some gives?

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

People often don't think throttle servos need much torque. They absolutely do. Use a good, high torque, digital servo.

tc5 man

um i never heard of when you change the needles you have to go futher on the epa thats a new one to me . well also what i was meaning was when i go full throttle its not all the way open theres a little bit of the carb showing but still has about 1mm to 2mm pull left.

tc5 man

um i never heard of when you change the needles you have to go futher on the epa thats a new one to me . well also what i was meaning was when i go full throttle its not all the way open theres a little bit of the carb showing but still has about 1mm to 2mm pull left.


i usually just tune my needles and leave the throttle epa where its at.
but i do have a losi .


sorry double post dam computer keeps on acting up again.

808gx7r

the type of carb... the more the carb barrel is pulled the more fuel it lets in.
its a go engines gx7r.. which is why people get so stuffed up with the tuning of these

dishsoap

iTrader: (8)

Hitec 7955. Problem solved. I would also check all of your wires to make sure there are no cuts or frays. Had a friend keep blowing servos because of the wiring.