Rsickles

iTrader: (21)

"Only running a Bonito"

jeromerc

iTrader: (8)

Yes it will change the ratio a bit but as I said I am only running a Bonitto and NO BODY is pulling away from me so the difference is minor and people who run the xray have different gear options so the gearing is not going to make a huge change, but not having the headache of skipping teeth was my result that was huge.

The bearings will wobble a bit even in the diff cup, don't worry about wobble if the bearings are new you are just over evaluating things and worrying about everything, you are exactly like I was BEFORE I changed to buggy diffs. Every race I was so worried, and every time I just got my truggy out to play I just knew I would hear the dreaded skip, that all changed when I switched to buggy gears. In all honesty the only reason I changed was because they did not have anymore truggy gears in Vietnam and it would take weeks to arrive so I had to do what I had to do to get ready for the race and since then I have never looked back. Check out ebay look for some used ones cheap, give it a try

muney

iTrader: (5)

ugh this is so friggen frustrating..so i bought a whole new diff housing, bearings and aluminium inserts, the ring and pinion looked ok so i didnt bother upgrading it..then shimmed oy according to one other forum. i shimmed the diff to have two thick ones and one thin one on the left, and three thin ones on the right. it did seem quite notchy..
anyway took it out and again the dreaded crunch!!! i feel like taking a sledge hammer to it!! so now, either ive shimmed it too much or the R&P need changing. can anyone shed some light?

muney

iTrader: (5)

im thinking it must be the flanged bearings on the outdirves that are shot, in that youtube video, right at the end you see the inserts on the bearings and how much wobble and movement there is..i have the exact same which proves my earlier point, that there shouldnt really be any wobble on these bearings because once you put the new inserts on, its still gonna bloddy wobble!
can anyone add to this?

CHOAS

I did not read this whole thing just this page... Shim the diff so it is a little notchy with one spot pretty notchy,run it in for a half tank easy,it will then feel only slightly notchy,then just pull a shim out of the one side and swap it over to the other every so often with regular diff fluid maintenace until there are no more shims to move over then start fresh with all new parts.Mine last a season usually no problem,have ran the truck for three seasons now.

The ring and pinion may have looked ok but its usually the pinion thats bad but if its has crunched for a little they are both bad.

muney

iTrader: (5)

I've already shimmed it with new aluminium inserts, diff case and bearings, but I didn't change the flanged bearings, and I'm still getting the crunch noise..my flanged bearings have a lot of play in them up and down the shaft as well as a wobble which will throw it around even tho it's shimmed left to right, but it will still wobble up and down if these flanged bearings are crap

heeelmooi

I've read through this thread at least four times now as I'm having exactly the same problem, but it doesn't seem as though anyone has really nailed down what the problems is. It seems as though the problem could be caused by a whole host of things.

Thus far I have tried; shimming every which way. I have mine nice and notchy now as instructed. I've also replaced the following: both diff housings, inserts are aluminium, replaced my bearings with high quality Avid bearings and also replaced the ring and pinion. I also have the Frioroni diff cups. There is no play between my CVD where it hooks on the pinion as I've done what is explained here.

Only thing I have not replaced are the pinion bearings. The only times I have gotten it to not click for a little while was by replacing the diff housing. So my current theory is that the pinion bearings must be shot causing the diff housing to warp, so I shall replace those.

Clicking is mainly under breaking btw, which makes me think it may be the front diff. Any help would be much appreciated, but I think most of everything ahs already been said here.

mklemp92

For me, the trick is the 1.0 rear gearbox. Harder plastic, doesn't morph as much under stress and heat. That in combination with the aluminum rear brace has saved me from my rear diff issues. And check after every race. Still have to re-shim on occasion but I blew through 3 diffs last year without these upgrades and none so far this year with these upgrades.

muney

iTrader: (5)

Heeelmoi I was pulling my hair out like you but with the rear..as soon as I heard the clicking on acceleration , I pulled the diff out and found the pinion bearing had shitted itself..replaced it..still the same..replaced the housing, still the same, added the aluminium diff inserts and shimmed it well, still the same..upon further inspection I had chipped pinion and crown teeth with we're very hard to see from the naked eye..threw new ones in..problem solved..
You're problem is you're pinion bearings in the front diff guaranteed..pull it out and you'll see it virtually crumble and the bearings will come apart..they were the first to go on the rear followed by the housing..as the bearing gets hot, it melts the plastic around it causing the pinion to have more play and start to wobble
Hope it works for you ..keep me posted, as I really feel for ya bud

LosiPRRACER

shim the diff TIGHT, to where it starts to become a "LITTLE" harder to turn, it will wear in and be fine. you should have alloy rear inserts, too.

if your still ruining them, then YOUR not following advice.

heeelmooi

Thanks muney! That helps a lot. So I'll be checking the bearings, getting a new diff housing (possibly the 1.0 one) and I'll carefully be checking my ring and pinion gear. It's kind of become a challenge now.

muney

iTrader: (5)

I'm not sure if you can get the 1.0 housing anymore..but carefully check you're ring and pinion cos that's what I was overlooking each time ..
I also used 2 thick shims on the crown side and 2 thin on the other side ..
But once you've got it right, you will have a bullet proof diff and would have learnt how to shim a diff properly..

heeelmooi

I finally got round to working on my diffs again. Since I had a suspicion that it was my front diff (clicking was only on breaking) and not the rear, I started with that. Replaced the diff housing, the pinion bearings and what i think was key; shimmed the front diff. There is some side to side play, so I just placed one shimm on the ring side and that got rid of it. I even found that that achieved the famed notchyness that I have in the rear!

Upon testing with Trencher X tires on road (if that doesn't make it click; nothing will) I found no clicking at all! I've had this before when I replaced the diff housing, but the clicking returned shortly. After two packs it has not returned this time and if it does I'm fairly sure a re-shimm will take care of it.

JeremyMcG

iTrader: (33)

Are any of you guys using the smart diff up front? I have the same issue as heeelmooi which is my clicking is only when I brake hard. I run a smart diff which I wouldn't think that would make a difference but I'm not sure. I though it would be the rear diff making the crunching sound?? Anyways I haven't had time to tear down yet. Hopefully Thursday if time allows.