Is it the engine or is it the clutch??
#1
Is it the engine or is it the clutch??
When I first put my 1/8 scale buggy on the track it has a lot of snap/punch on the low end but once its warmed up after a few laps the snap/punch is not like it was its a lot milder. I'm running the Werks B5 and the Jammin red aluminum clutch shoes and the 1.1 springs that came with the clutch shoes. The motor has a little over a half gallon through it so I'm thinking that maybe its the clutch??
#2
is your tune good? maybe the low end is to lean and its lean bogging?
#5
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Tony is right. And the B5 has a ton of bottom so 1.0 springs are the highest stall you probably want. The shoes can be getting hot and not grabbing. But that is not your only issue I think.
Odds are pretty high it's your tune like Tallyram said. It is easy to get the bottom too lean especially if you are tuning it cold. Take it out and warm it till like you said, you don't have bottom snap and then bring her in a fatten/rich the bottom 2 hours. if it's better then you are going the right direction, and might even need more. Could also be reverse of that and be too fat which means doing the same thing in reverse to lean it some.
check If your clutch bell is discoloring due to heat as well.
There's a Great B5 tuning guide in the B5 thread. And the Company owner (Werks/Ron) is always on there to help people.
Good Luck.
Odds are pretty high it's your tune like Tallyram said. It is easy to get the bottom too lean especially if you are tuning it cold. Take it out and warm it till like you said, you don't have bottom snap and then bring her in a fatten/rich the bottom 2 hours. if it's better then you are going the right direction, and might even need more. Could also be reverse of that and be too fat which means doing the same thing in reverse to lean it some.
check If your clutch bell is discoloring due to heat as well.
There's a Great B5 tuning guide in the B5 thread. And the Company owner (Werks/Ron) is always on there to help people.
Good Luck.
#6
i used to run 1.0 springs then i switched to 1.1 but i am going back to 1.0 cause they didnt give me any trouble
#7
the red shoes are jammins lightest shoe... so 1.1 springs is to much.. i think its your clucth heating up because of slipping to much.. i normally run the silver jammin shoes with 1.1 springs and they work great..
#8
Thanks everyone for the tips/advice!
I'm definetly not an expert but I don't ever try to tune a cold engine. I just pulled the clutch the other day and everything looked okay. I don't have the springs/clutch in front of me so I'm assuming the black springs are the 1.0(softer)?
I have noticed that sometimes when the fuel is getting a little low in tank and I go through this double double section and when I land on the back side of the first set and burp the throttle to get over the next set it initially bogs a little so maybe my LS is to lean or is that just the results of a low fuel level in the tank because when I have a full tank or even a 1/4 tank it does not do it?
I'm definetly not an expert but I don't ever try to tune a cold engine. I just pulled the clutch the other day and everything looked okay. I don't have the springs/clutch in front of me so I'm assuming the black springs are the 1.0(softer)?
I have noticed that sometimes when the fuel is getting a little low in tank and I go through this double double section and when I land on the back side of the first set and burp the throttle to get over the next set it initially bogs a little so maybe my LS is to lean or is that just the results of a low fuel level in the tank because when I have a full tank or even a 1/4 tank it does not do it?
#9
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
yes
Thanks everyone for the tips/advice!
I'm definetly not an expert but I don't ever try to tune a cold engine. I just pulled the clutch the other day and everything looked okay. I don't have the springs/clutch in front of me so I'm assuming the black springs are the 1.0(softer)?
I have noticed that sometimes when the fuel is getting a little low in tank and I go through this double double section and when I land on the back side of the first set and burp the throttle to get over the next set it initially bogs a little so maybe my LS is to lean or is that just the results of a low fuel level in the tank because when I have a full tank or even a 1/4 tank it does not do it?
I'm definetly not an expert but I don't ever try to tune a cold engine. I just pulled the clutch the other day and everything looked okay. I don't have the springs/clutch in front of me so I'm assuming the black springs are the 1.0(softer)?
I have noticed that sometimes when the fuel is getting a little low in tank and I go through this double double section and when I land on the back side of the first set and burp the throttle to get over the next set it initially bogs a little so maybe my LS is to lean or is that just the results of a low fuel level in the tank because when I have a full tank or even a 1/4 tank it does not do it?
#10
One your engine is still very new, which is going to make a little harder to tune BUT to take out all the guess work. Change the clutch and richen all needles and and start over. Once you've done that run your can for a little bit and tune from there. A little work but I'd rather do the work than buy a new B5.
Hopefully you have some idea of how to tune a motor which 95% of us DONT and two try and listen for a slipping clutch. "Sounds like metal vibrating very slight" Your going to have to develop an ear for it, much like a well tuned motor.
Hopefully you have some idea of how to tune a motor which 95% of us DONT and two try and listen for a slipping clutch. "Sounds like metal vibrating very slight" Your going to have to develop an ear for it, much like a well tuned motor.
Last edited by 99problems; 07-14-2010 at 11:50 PM.
#11
Tech Elite
iTrader: (65)
One your engine is still very new. which is going to make a little harder to tune BUT to take out all the guess work. Change the clutch and richen all needles and and start over. Once you've done that run your can for a little bit and tune from there. A little work but I'd rather do the work than buy a new B5.
Hopefully you have some idea of how to tune a motor which 95% of us DONT and two try and listen for a slipping clutch. "Sounds like metal vibrating very slight" Your going to have to develop an ear for it, much like a well tuned motor.
Hopefully you have some idea of how to tune a motor which 95% of us DONT and two try and listen for a slipping clutch. "Sounds like metal vibrating very slight" Your going to have to develop an ear for it, much like a well tuned motor.
#13
Uh.... After reading the post I'm curious. I have an RTR RC8T with the stock .28 motor. I'm noticing my top end really isn't where it needs to be. (not that this motor will be great) I have the stock shoes and springs and the engine seems to rev well but doesn't "pull" on top. Well I had noticed that the bell has heat discoloration. I didn't know if it should or not. (still new) From what I'm hearing I'm assuming my clutch is just slipping. If this is the case what spring/shoe setup should I use? Also, I'm saving for a B5 now. Is there a setup I could use for both?? If not what should I get for when my B5 comes? I'm not too worried about this motor... just want it to last till my B5 gets here hopefully!
On a side note: I was wondering what that weird sound I kept hearing was.... Sounded just like you said... vibrating metal.....
Cheap parts that work well please. Work is slow and I'm having enough bad luck as it is with these things!
On a side note: I was wondering what that weird sound I kept hearing was.... Sounded just like you said... vibrating metal.....
Cheap parts that work well please. Work is slow and I'm having enough bad luck as it is with these things!
#14
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
If your clutch bell is discoloured, then your clutch is certainly slipping under load. I run the 4 shoe M2C clutch with 1.0 springs, and soft shoes, and the shoes will last 4 gallons with little maintenance. I used to run hard shoes, but with my Clockworks modded mills, a hard shoe would initially slip before the shoes grabbed, leaving slag on the bell, and causing the hard shoes to wear faster than the soft shoes I currently run. A soft shoe will slip less, and wear better if you have a high-power mill.
#15
Tech Champion
iTrader: (53)
Uh.... After reading the post I'm curious. I have an RTR RC8T with the stock .28 motor. I'm noticing my top end really isn't where it needs to be. (not that this motor will be great) I have the stock shoes and springs and the engine seems to rev well but doesn't "pull" on top. Well I had noticed that the bell has heat discoloration. I didn't know if it should or not. (still new) From what I'm hearing I'm assuming my clutch is just slipping. If this is the case what spring/shoe setup should I use? Also, I'm saving for a B5 now. Is there a setup I could use for both?? If not what should I get for when my B5 comes? I'm not too worried about this motor... just want it to last till my B5 gets here hopefully!
On a side note: I was wondering what that weird sound I kept hearing was.... Sounded just like you said... vibrating metal.....
Cheap parts that work well please. Work is slow and I'm having enough bad luck as it is with these things!
On a side note: I was wondering what that weird sound I kept hearing was.... Sounded just like you said... vibrating metal.....
Cheap parts that work well please. Work is slow and I'm having enough bad luck as it is with these things!
replace them
also if your center diff out out of oil or light on oil it will blow all your power out the front tires, watch them next time your at the track, that will make it feel lazy accelerating also