grease to all the cvas joint and out drives?
 

How often do should you apply black grease to all the cvas joint and out drives? I have an RC8B.

I have to say "never".

Using a sticky lubricant turns it in to a grinding / polishing compound in pretty much no time at all. If you want to take care of your stuff, use dry lubrication. Teflon powder, paraffin, and wax-based stuff.
B!

i am a firm believer of using grafite powder like you put in door locks to free them up as it is dry and dirt wont stick to it as grease attracts dirt and dust real bad. i use this in combo with grease on my diffs for like a teflon grease and it works a treat.:batman:

KalGard clear chain kote. Goes on thin, and drys to a dry lube. Awesome stuff

I use Tri Flo, it is a dry film you can get it at any bicycle shop.

not to sound like an idiot. But what is a cva? And i always put mobil one on my outdrives, and universal joint shafts. Have i been doing it wrong all along?

CVA, universal joint, it's pretty much the same. It would be less likely to pick up dust and other grime with a dry surface lubricant. If it's sticky, it's bad.
B!

I use grease if I have boots. If not then a dry lubricant. The Kalgard line of products rocks!

ok. is there anything i can get from the local hardware store that would be an equivalent? Been using mobil one and yea they are wearing pretty fast.

What about running them dry?

Wrong. Oiled sand and grit is a much better lubricant than dry sand and grit. That stuff just gets flung off and then your stuck with dry metal on metal. And the wax attacs as much grit as my oils. I tried Perdors, white lightning, some motorcycle stuff etc. I made my own selfcleaning lube, but it still looks nasty. I have't got it ready for market yet. Still have a few folks testing applications. It looks like oil but keeps a bike chain awesome clean. Works well in RC. Oddly, I designed it for niether!



I lightly grease cvd pins and barrels. Then when they get coated with dirt I apply oil. You can allways bast it off with NC brakeclean, but I don't.

If they are inside a rubber boot then I pack them full with grease. (The CVD, not the whole boot.)

Disassemble all CVD's every 2-3 race days for cleaning, repair, pin replacement etc. Dusty conditions are the worst.

Contaminated oil stays in the joins in a whole different way then sand does on its own. While it's in there it acts as a polishing media, and grinds away your stuff. I'd rather have dry parts without lube, then oiled parts.

I assume your talking about the Teflon powder & and paraffin compounds. The Teflon powder isn't flung of that easy, but the idea is that it should let what ever abrasive stuff take a bit of it with it and drop away, rather then act as a polishing compound. The paraffin stuff is more work. It's pretty much the same as the floating wax based stuff, you just have to use manual labor to spread it instead of having it dissolved in solvents. It isn't flung anywhere anytime soon. You can still feel the dry slick surface on the internals of the CVD's i tore down after the last summer.

I'm sorry, but i have to disagree. Dry wax lubricants doesn't let stuff stick to the surface. Sticky wax like KalGard clear chain kote does, but dry lube doesn't. (However the fella who said he used KalGard clear chain kote said it dries to a dry lube, so they might have swapped formula?) A dry lube coated component dusted with meal, takes a breath blown across it to have it as clean as it was when you put the wax on. And, they don't have to be expensive. (I guess it helps, but my current favorite is sold at about 5bucks for 75ml. It's a junk re-brand OEM bottle of "dry wax chail lube". It's miles better then the White Lightning product i used on the bike chain, but then again that was like 15 years ago...I don't know where i would get a white lightning product today, so i cant compare.) They just have to actually be dry after the solvents are gone.

With a boot, grease is probably the best. It helps seal the boot, and without contaminants, the grease is hard to beat as lube.

I have to admit, i don't race. I just bash. But i have yet to replace the pin in any of my CVD's, on my now 4 year old Protech Enigma. This year it hasn't seen much dirt, i've been plying around with a truck instead, but the last 3 summers it's been taken out for a 4-6 hour bash every weekend, and have been given a bit of ride time in the weeks just to ease the abstinence in wait for the weekends. There is minute wear on the pins, and the cups it is stuck in seams untouched. (The dogbone stick in the other end has been replaced at least 3 times as i can remember) Amount of service... I tear the whole buggy down by the end of the summer every year, and spend the winter going over everything with cleaning tools until it looks brand new, lube everything, stick it back together replacing parts and screws that look sub par.
During the summer season i check up on the internals of the differentials every other week or so, and check for bent axles and play in the joins when the differentials are out. I've bent the left front axle twice, and twisted a rear axle once, (I blame someone else for using to much, to hard loctite on the wheel nut.) kept the good parts from the CVD's as spares, but so far haven't used them.
Probably the only thing we whole heartedly agree on is that dusty conditions are the worst.
B!

so graphite powder would be ok? I can get a good bit of it for free.

Well, there's the rub. My bashers have completly different wear patterns and needs than my racers. My racers need to stay wet. Constant re-lubing to minimize wear.

The dry lubes just don't stay where they need to be for long. And as long as your drives are wet enough the dirt adds very little wear. I have over 2 dozen rae days on my Xray 809 stock drives with only two dog bone pins replaced. No wear other than finish.



Dreaux: I've had no luck with carbon powder at all.

have you used this stuff just wondering what your opinions are it seems to work well and it stays where you put it.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...s699&search=Go

There used to be a product called POWERKote WSX put out by Tech Line Coatings; has to be scrubbed into the metal (which is quite the PITA) but it works awesome. Good thing I still have an almost full bottle :sweat:

*edit* Actually, it's still around:

http://www.techlinecoatingswebstore....bricant_2.html