cordarrow

iTrader: (17)

Exactly....we,as a rule....are hard core suckers for anyone "reinventing the wheel".

Of course "joe go fast" is gonna' sing the praises of anything he just dropped a big pile of cheese on...."OMG the feel is just incredible!!!"...
sure it is.

Fact is...in power transmission...simpler is better nearly every time.

Madbrad

iTrader: (30)

How old is the clutch bell its self ? Do the bearing seat properly inside it with no play?

toofless

iTrader: (1)

on another note how old is your engine?i have had this problem in the past it turned out the inner bearing of the motor had some play it got to a point one high rev on the starter box would take em out

blacksunshine

iTrader: (15)

Brand new powerhouse modded jpx 28 and a p5x are doing the same thing.I have a pro twister modded os 25 coming this thusday.And i also have a novarossi 821 b coming aswell.So i'm not dealing with worn out stuff here.I've got some ceramic's coming and if that don't do it i'm will be done with the werks clutches.And will go to a 4 shoe set-up.Also the bells i'm using with the werks are brand new.

merdith6

iTrader: (3)

I say use the flywheel your car came with unless it's a Losi, or Associated for example, the normal 3 shoe clutch is the best. I have an 808 so Iuse an 808 flywheel and I've found the Mugen Hard shoes to be my favorite, or the Max Life Dynamites, and Kyosho 1.0 springs. I like the kyosho springs because they are really adjustable. .90, .95, 1.0, 1.1 etc.... I like the 1.0 springs with the mugen shoes, they just fit really well. If your car has some new design flywheel, loose it, and get what fits, usually a Mugen flywheel will fit most types of cars. the kyosho and Odonnell flywheels are moved close to the engine and really only work on those cars. A hot bodies, Xray, mugen and so on would be the best....I hope this helps.......

Franchise

iTrader: (2)

What type of engine mount are you using? I had the same problem with my 6t. I was eating bearings at the same rate you are. I tried my werks clutch. I tried my 3 shoe. I checked and checked the mesh, I checked and checked the play and it was still eating bearings.

Pro Twister Brian mentioned chassis flex so I dropped some cash on the King Headz extended engine mount and haven't had the problem since. Infact, I recycled two of my used bearings and they held up until I decided to replace them with new ones.

As of now I know of only one other racer that had the same problem with his 6t at the track. I told him my situation and he to bought the extended mount and it fixed his problem.

In my experience clutches don't cause this problem.

razo125

Have you tried TKO bearings? They are not ceramic, but they handle more axial load so they last longer. Also are you cleaning out the excess grease from the inner bearing?

I follow the advice I saw in a video interview with Richard Saxton... When doing clutch bearing maintenance, move the outer bearing to the inner position and put a new outer bearing. Only change one bearing at a time, but more often if needed. This keeps the grease out of the clutch bell.

I've tried the werks clutch and it works fine. I'm guessing excess chassis flex... is your chassis cracked. +1 on the extended motor mount...

token

Or the bearings in the center diff or the center diff mount... this has happened to me a while ago when the losi 8ight first came out. I spent hundreds of dollars trying to figure it out. they said use ceramic @ 36 a set. blew those in seconds, they said the shaft on the engine - so I brought a new engine, after months of headaches I decided to change the center diff mount and waaa laaa not more problems........ just a thought.

crazysavage

iTrader: (43)

I am sure someone will say no way you cant do that to this suggestion but I have been doing this for 3 years and I change my bearings just because they look old not because they are bad. I use metal shielded only, soak them in motor spray for hour or more to remove all grease, install them and make sure i have 1mm of back and forth play on the shaft, make sure the engine is perfectly perpendicular to the spur gear and set mesh with 2 peices of printer paper for 1/8th scale spurs. I set it so that when you pull out the paper it is snug to pull out but not so tight as to tear the papers when pulled on.

JAMMINKRAZY

iTrader: (17)

+1 I always blast the grease out of my bearings. I use the RPM bearing blaster and some motor spray to blast all the grease out of my clutch bearings. I also use a drop or two of modified bearing oil in them. Makes them last a lot longer.

token

Not I, I just slap those bad boys on for qualifiers, and depending on the length of the main, change em..... I have about 100 of each size, and that works for me.

losi guy

iTrader: (38)

I just buy a butt load from Avid. At .99 cents just change them out when you need to.

JAMMINKRAZY

iTrader: (17)

I guess you like a slippy clutch then. Because that's all you are doing running them with grease in them. Ever take your clutch apart after running bearings with grease? Notice all the greasy residue on the shoes? Where do you think that comes from? NO GREASE IN CLUTCH BEARINGS! A drop of bearing oil, yes, grease NO! Trust me Token, give it a try. Not only will the bearings themselves last longer, but the clutch will work much better and the shoes will last longer because of it. It's worth the little extra time it takes to do it. I buy my bearings in rolls of 10. I'll go through a whole roll and clean/oil them and put them back in the roll. Then they're always ready when I need them at the track. Give it a shot. Oh, for oil, I use a modified bearing oil that Racers Edge sells. TKO sells a nice bearing oil as well.

dandrat

iTrader: (5)

take your opinion and throw it in the garbage

LabRat99

iTrader: (1)

IMO, if your regularly blowing up clutch bearings somethings not aligned right or shimmed right. As to removing grease from the bearings, if it maks you feel better then go for it. Or, you could just pop em in run a tank through and then take the CB off and wipe any excess grease out. Problem solved.