bevofrancis

iTrader: (11)

I'm filling them up all the way with fluid with the shaft fully extended. Then I'm working them around a little to get out the air bubbles. Then I push the shaft all the way in and screw the cap on. I've read that this will give me no rebound and let the shock springs handle the rebound.

I have the rc8 big bore shocks.

Any advice would be great.

GRANPA 67

iTrader: (32)

If ur aim is to have no rebound,then wot you are doing is correct....

NitroFreakManHo

iTrader: (3)

You nailed it, this will give you no rebound, this is how I run my shocks too.

v1r killer

iTrader: (8)

nitro house has some good video on shock rebuilds if you are un sure

Rev-head888

iTrader: (21)

If your aiming to get no rebound your going the right way

race raider

iTrader: (38)

sorry if this is a dumb question but what is the advantage of running your shocks like this

dreaux

iTrader: (5)

i have been running 50% and 100% i will be trying 0% next.

pinky2252s

iTrader: (4)

Your car will bounce around like mad with 0% in it.... Its like having no shock absorbers in a 1/1 car. and you will bottom out your shock rods every time you land, which can cause damage to the shock body it self.

mbx5rcr34

iTrader: (5)

so what you guys suggest,if the track is hard pack ?? smooth, but not that huge jumps ,its for the truggy thks

Quad Racer 34

iTrader: (4)

ive been running about one third rebound in the front and one fourth in the rear and it seems to do me good on outdoor tracks with medium sized jumps. i like it.

mbx5rcr34

iTrader: (5)

thks,for that info. ,so can you just tell me whats the advantage of full rebound?? i understand that the dis-advantage is ,it will slap or bottom out if "full rebound" ,i agree on that cause thats what happening to my truck but whats the skid plates for?? sorry if i ask too much ,so base on your experience is the full rebound good for rough (bumpy track) technical or smooth (hard pack)?? again thank you for your time ...........on my race experience i would say im not that guy like to jump or clear the "quads " ,end-up over-shooting the jumps & sadly braking parts .......i always try my best to smooth everything up ,i only brake parts if i encounter "glitch problem" or runaway thing ............LOL its off-topic there ,but thats how i am ............again ,i would say its a great site here ,cause i learn something everday ,thks

offr0aden

iTrader: (6)

I'll try to explain this -

When rebuilding a shock - you fill it up - work the piston up and down to remove any air under the piston.

The rebound happens when you cap the shock - in relation to where the piston is -

So if you position the piston in the middle of the shock you are at 50% rebound.

** With the spring off if you extend the shock it should try to suck or rebound its way to the center of the shaft. Or if you compress it - it should return to the half position. **

On the other hand - if you compress the piston and install the cap - then you would have no rebound when compressing the shock it would stay compressed.

** This is useful when you allow the springs to absorb the bumps / jumps / ruts. You can adjust you traction via the springs rather then the oil - the feel is more 1:1 then spongy or too hard. **

If you build the shocks bleed them and then install the cap with the piston fully extended - then that 100% rebound. What can happen is you can blow off the shock caps and or blow the seals when landing jumps - This is due to the fluid being forced up the shaft (Compressing the bladder in the cap) and the fluid pressure having no place to go other then the weakest place.

** In affect - you are not allowing the fluid to move and the shock are very stiff - there are less adjustments you can make by changing your springs. **

This is where - a LOT of adjustments can be made - like adding less fluid and laying your shocks down - can allow for a much more linear / progressive feel - then filling the shocks to the tippy top and squeezing the fluid in.

The big thing to remember is the bladder in the shock cap - it will push the fluid back down - its not much - but its enough to cause "Rebound"...

I use 50% rebound most of the time - (My pistons are 50% compressed when I seal / cap my shocks) I have 3 sets of springs medium / soft / super soft - and with 50% rebound I can adjust my car's planted character by swapping the springs.


Note - following advise from one of the racers - I packed my shocks at 100% (Fully extended) and added some stiff springs - and going over the bumpy stuff - I was bouncing around like a bunny and had no control - it was everywhere. I repacked at 50% compressed and I was floating over the ruff stuff like being on a cloud - same springs just a different packing / rebound.

token

I run 0 rebound and my truck is not bouncy at all. I prefer it that way, I have tried all different rebound settings, and I dont like it........ You will have to play with it to see how it feels to you.

NitroFreakManHo

iTrader: (3)

I agree with you Token..zero rebound does NOT make your car bouncy, in fact,it has the opposite effect! That is why I run it.

rc skyline

iTrader: (4)

Yeah... How could it be bouncy?, Would you not still have the dampening effect of the piston & oil (shock assy) regardless

Very interesting thread here guys... Looking forward to learning lots for my next shock re build but i must say i am still confused by all this dispite offroadens informative post




Dave