The fisherman

What type of shock oils do you guys run in the front and the rear of the losi 2.0 buggy.I just bought a Ride height tool and found out my buggy was way off,23mm in the front and 22mm in the back.I had to crank way down on the springs to get it right.Would you change oils and springs,if so what do you suggest it is an RTR so it just came with standard springs.And last but not least what is a good charger to get that wil do everything.
Thanks in advance.

The fisherman

Also if anyone could give a few tips it would be of great help,I just put the re-11 pipe on my buggy tonite.I ran it before with the stock pipe for the first time in months(we had lots of snow here)it ran great now i'm having issues retuning it ,can it throw the tune off that much,do these pipes need to break in or anything.It starts great and idles good on the box,then when i put it to the ground it runs maybe ten feet and dies out,i will try tuning it again tomorrow,don't want to P.O anybody in my hood,i didn't think it would throw it off that much.But it did,what have been your expeirences PLEASE HELP.

jrwoodchuck

i run 40wt with 54 pistons in front, 25wt w/56's in the rear. as far as the pipe, it can be off a bit on tune from the other pipe.

tc5 man

+1 thats a good shock/oil setup on the eight buggy ,i did the same shock setup on my 1.0 buggy and made a big, diffrence espially lighter oil in the rear.

The fisherman

Thanks guys,
Now i have to get a new charger any suggestions,also there seems to be oil coming out of my middle diff now(never ends)I could see it on my body cover, dark black line right across the middle.Can i just tighten something or do i have to rebuild something.Thanks.

jjshbetz11

Well the leaking diff fluid could be from the screws backing out, or the paper seal is bad, or the rubber seals have popped loose.

geejay

iTrader: (1)

Is it leaky or just the grease they put on the gears? Or the grease they use to seal the diff case.

jjshbetz11

I would think its diff fluid from it being flung onto the body. Plus the center diff has no case. Hey, has anyone tried to make the paper dasket out of 1/1 carb paper? Might be a pain but it would save some coin and have lots on hand.

Stubbs

iTrader: (58)

Pipes can actually have a significant impact on motor tune. If the RTR pipe is much more restrictive than the RE11 (which is an OS2050 clone = low to mid range pipe), you could be quite a bit off on the tune. Don't worry about how much you have to change the needles, just tune it for performance & temp, and go from there.

If you go from the RE11 to something like an RE10 (OS2060 clone = high end / free flowing pipe), you shouldn't have to tweak the setttings but just a little bit.

Bottom line, any time you change something that affects the amount of air that moves through the engine (intake, air filter, carb restrictor, header, pipe, etc...) you should have to re-tune to get the optimal performance.

neobart

iTrader: (4)

I agree with what you said Stubbs, but you go the pipes backwards. RE11 is the 2050 clone.

The fisherman

Well, i think it might be diff fluid,it seems more like an oil substance and there is a good bit of it,which stinks,either way will i have to take it apart and refill diff fluid.I am surprised how much it threw the tune off regarding the re11 pipe.I got it to the point last night,when it was on the box it would idle good maybe a little high(tires slightly moving,temps were around 205,I hit the throttle and sounded alot meaner.But when i set it down to do a test run it would go about 10 feet and sputter out.Also guys when i seen the oil for the first time i noticed the rich lean screw was loose.Meaning the brass that sleeve that the flathead screw is enclosed.So i tightened it,is this a common problem.Thanks again guys your a big help to this nitro newb.

mikesd1980

iTrader: (76)

That needle suppose to be some what loose. Thats the high speed needle and you adjust that for tuning your engine. You might want to open that back out to flush. Thats probably why your engine is shutting off. Your engine is way to lean and your starving the engine.

The fisherman

I will try that mike when i get home,guess i never really noticed that it was loose and i got worried and tightened it a bit,when i started to adjust it to make it leaner the whole assembly turned and i just never seen it that loose.I'm going to mess with it when i get done work all night if i have to,also talked to the guy at the hobby shop and he told me the RTR losi's diff's come packed with grease not oil,so it probly needs to be done anyway.It's going to be a long night.

WheelNut

iTrader: (5)

Thunderpower 610C. Does all battery types and has a built in lipo balancer.

The fisherman

Thanks for all your info,I finally got it tuned almost where it needs to be,it was way to rich and had to mess with the idle also.Wheelnut thanks for the suggestion on the charger.Now tonite i put the new steering servo in right.Tweaked every thing so there would be little to no trim adjustment needed,and guess what a right turn is a left and a left turn is a right.I'm pretty sure it's the only way it could go in, any suggestions on what i may have screwed up.Is there a switch on my spectrum to reverse this.I'm learning everyday.