khannibal

what about the aluminum front top brace? woudl you guys recommend this over stock?

I'm also thinking of getting the front alum spindle..is this is a good "must have" mod?

Integra

iTrader: (8)

No on the top plate, Imo its not needed, and Steering knuckles are up to you, if you have any thoughts of trying the inclined 10's or 12's then obviously choose carefully.

khannibal

Thanks... regarding the spindles/carriers I'm more looking for a durability hop up. I also read somewhere that the aluminum front spindle when combined with the stock carrier increases steering throw...

Jimbo-t

the only things worth getting are 12 deg from blocks on some tracks + ghea pistions 8 hole fronts and 6 hole rears and rear springs between the silver and green hotbodies d8 greys or xray 808 silvers work.
you can also play about with gearing 14/47 works for me a lot of people now running 13/46 or 13/45(need to dremell diff case and diff mount to fit)

Integra

iTrader: (8)

you sure your in the right thread ?

NEWFIE

hey guys, just stumbled this threat and thought i would give my opinion...i ran a 2.0T race roller on the local track here in edmonton with the aluminum steering brace, aluminum inserts in the rear gearbox,adjustable hinge pin retainers, V2 towers, smart diffs front and mid with a .28XZ w/2060 pipe...lightened and regular aluminum shoes on all green springs with 16/50 ratio...it was absolutely bulletproof, couldnt break it!... i just started running a new 2.0t comp kit i built with the same motor pipe, aluminmum steering brace ONLY...no other options box stock only difference i see is the truck drives BETTER without all the hype...pick and choose what it is to personalize your losi, dont re invent the wheel losi built it tough

Integra

iTrader: (8)

A BIG X2, Lots of the hopup's are NOT needed what so ever. There just nice to have and or use.

NEWFIE

just finished racing at the club again today....its final...there will be NO rediculous hop ups goin on this truck...i straight up beat a driver today (clean race for both of us) who always had me beaten by at least 1/2 lap by almost a full lap and i had to make an extra pit stop to have body pins put back in...theres the proof for me right there, and im now averaging 5-7 seconds faster per lap....only extras goin on this truck are the clockwork decals!!!

Greg B

iTrader: (68)

That's pretty much why you don't need a killer engine or something modified. You will do more with less. Once you try, you may understand that a little better.

losi_racer

iTrader: (25)

the modified motor craze ive seen lately is a joke. These engines these days are getting more powerful but smoother and the cars are getting lighter. noone needs more power in these engines. I see people modify engines all the time and they cant control it or wonder why there only getting 6 min run times and tires are bald after every run

NEWFIE

It all depends on the particular Mod made to the engine... engines can be Drag modded to drink large amounts of fuel make insane power, or what i call "tune modded" or "clocked" as one particular modder calls his motors, so they make smoother power, last longer, and gain more runtime racing...heres an example:
Clockwork racing engines provide a large number of the club racers in Edmonton with motors...Extreme interest was unanimously placed on the Clocked Werks B5 and B6...clockworks dynotune their motors for best setup and efficiency...20 minute mains are now considered a "one-stop show"... i personally timed our club president from startup to flame out just shy of 15 minute runtime with a clocked werks B5, the clockworks fuel, and the modder recommended setup, and drove!!!!! not babied around the track...theres youtube videos of these motors that are over 9 minute recordings with no break... and i personally see a losi 8t2.0 regularly run 11 or 12 min anytime he wants to and will straight-up-thump the f$%k out of a speed!
I briefly met this modder in Edmonton and have gotten advice from him from time to time on engine tuning...i also run clockworks fuel and i have an o.s 28xz that runs 9+ minutes when properly tuned and the motor is stock...i ran odonnel 30 and with my temps in the 250's i never had the jam out of the corners like i do with clockworks fuel...also its upsetting to know i can thump a speed down the straightaway but cannot catch a clocked JL .21...if ur a serious racer Neal and Clockworks is the only place to power your nitro...try a B5 or B6 and some clockworks juice and i guarantee you wont switch back to whatever you are running because you will gain milage and performance guaranteed...and fyi the customer service is better and faster than callin up o.s on the phone!!! do your homework!!

losi_racer

iTrader: (25)

ill stick to my statement

abqNitro

iTrader: (1)

I totally disagree with the anti-modded engine remarks! Not only do I have a modded engine, but I have a modded 25 and I have no trouble what so ever with controlling it! In fact, it gives me a slight edge and I am always placing in the top 4... I guess it all depends on driving style and driver reflex. Also, a big factor with modded engines is the capability of the builder! A modded engine is about more than just extracting more power, its also about making that engine run smoother and more efficiently. Which equals better fuel milage and a more versatile powerband.

So*Cal AFDude

iTrader: (21)

rockstar stickers make it faster

NEWFIE

well ill give you guys the before and after on a crazy idea my teammate had...he purchased a fantini modded .21....retailed for over 6 bills....sent it to clockworks to get it modded for milage and performance and a cylinder repinch and handlapped breakin, and dynotuned for best clutch/flywheel/pipe/header/glowplug/shimsetup....itll be here this week and ready for rc pro...the motor was already a stump puller that revved to infiniti and shredded diffs...RC PRO Alberta isgonna be the birth of the "Clocked-Fantini Modded Max Power .21" on clockworks fuel.... anyone ever ran a fantini?