houston

iTrader: (96)

Look killer on every aspect except for where the wires come out. Doesn't work too well for tenth scale

Integra

iTrader: (8)

Unless you got a Dual port charger i would stick with the single 4S...easier to maintain the packs and keep them in Check....If your used to charging multiple lipo's then by all means go with the 2 2S if that's the route you would prefer...either way your going to be happy with the extra power/runtime.

nitro-rob

Is it really necessary to solder all the junctions and go to 12 gauge wires for a 4s battery. The manufacturers seem okay with 4s running in their boxes as is and the current draw is nowhere near what it is when the lipo is in a truck. The connections in the box should be able to handle 200 amps no problem and I can't believe that the box will draw that much. Is this a case of overkill that has been sliding to more unnecessary specs?

Is this just theoretical and overkill?

Matthijs

iTrader: (1)

yes, it is necessary, at least to bypass the switch... I did...after it melted...

Frank L

iTrader: (148)

Starter boxes only really need 15-20c I would say 30 is the max. When you go too high there are too many amps and things start to melt. I'm running a 3200 30c venom 4s pack in my box and so far it is holding up well.

losi_racer

iTrader: (25)

I went on ebay and got 2 4s 4000 msh 15c lipos for 20. Bucks. Been using them for about 2-3 months now. I liked them so much went and got some 2s 5000mah 30c lipos for 30 bucks for my sc

Armaan

iTrader: (49)

Can you please post a link for the members? Thanks.

Nilks

Wrong. Batteries don't push amps - motors draw amps. So the starterbox will only draw as much amps it needs. No more.

RJNicholson

Exactly why I only use an 8c Starter Box battery from Common Sense.

6000mah 4s Lipo at a max of 8c. Just as big as my gel cell almost. Use it in my OFNA Blue Top and I have never had a single issue on any engine ever.. Period. It still has plenty of power to grind the wheel do a fine powder on my chassis if I miss or my post move from coming loose.

I think anything over 10c is over kill when your using the OFNA Blue top they have way more then enough power to turn over any engine.

Frank L

iTrader: (148)

So you are saying that a 50c battery wont push as many amps as a 20C battery if the motor doesnt require it?? Thats not that way I have been told. Why would you ever want to spend the $$$ on a higher C rating then?

Nilks

Yep - that's the way it works.
The reason to buy batteries with high C ratings, is if you run touring car modified (just an example) where the amp draw is big. But it isn't in a starterbox.

If your battery got a too low C-rating for what you are using it for, the battery will get hot, and it will draw more mah's, because it needs to draw x power, but since the battery gets hot, it needs to draw more from the battery to get x power.

But yeah - the motor will draw the amps needed - the battery won't push the amps.

Frank L

iTrader: (148)

So how did he melt his box in the post above???

Nilks

I don't know, but I would like to point out that it was only a 20C pack - so that was not the problem.
Missing relay maybe? Running to much power through the switch?

Matthijs

iTrader: (1)

When I melted the switch I was using the box without any modifications, just the lipo and deans. I've been using the same lipo for over a year now, without any problem, so no fault there. I don't know why it melted, maybe I was trying to start a new engine, cold with a lot of mechanical pinch and the box and lipo had to deliver serious mah's?

I've seen switches fail in all kinds of boxes and cars, try to keep things as simple as possible and eliminate them. Keeps your racing weekend stressfree

Nilks

Do you have a relay in your box?