Anyone setup their car's brakes to be FRONT bias???
08-31-2009, 07:05 PM
#1
Anyone setup their car's brakes to be FRONT bias???
or 50 front / 50 rear?
08-31-2009, 07:09 PM
#2
i prefer a little more front rake than rear. i like to be able to brake with a little push into the corner which a heavier front brake allows and it also gives me the chance to slide the rear around. that is for a looser track tho
08-31-2009, 07:19 PM
#4
I just dial in brakes till I can stop without skidding, if the tail wags under braking I just dial out a little more rear. Seems close to 50/50? where do you get these % #'s from anyway??
I usually paint a black stripe on my practice wheel/tires so I can tell if my wheels are spinning. Sticks out like a sore thumb when they aren't. Got the idea from the white lines they paint on top fuel dragster tires.
I usually paint a black stripe on my practice wheel/tires so I can tell if my wheels are spinning. Sticks out like a sore thumb when they aren't. Got the idea from the white lines they paint on top fuel dragster tires.
08-31-2009, 07:22 PM
#5
do you all just bend the brake arms or is there a more accurate way of calibrating front/rear brake force bias?
08-31-2009, 07:26 PM
#6
Tech Master
The knobs on the brake rods = more or less front or rear & radio end points = how strong total.
08-31-2009, 07:39 PM
#8
putting the stripe on your wheel is a great way but didn't really point out much to my slow eyes 
I run about 70% rear 30% front so I can slide around tight spots on our small track.
There was a setup manual referenced much earlier this year I used. It might be for building a Losi. The idea is that you apply brakes while on the bench then hold down the front two wheels and one rear - lift the other rear off the ground and try to turn it. Repeat for holding both rear wheels down and one front and lift one front off the ground and turn. I use a rubber band on the brake lever on the TX and put my upper arm accross the two fronts and wrap that hand around to the back then have a free hand to lift the 4th tire up Works for me. If you set the EPA for almost locking up the "stronger" end then the opposite end will rotate much easier. The % is a guess. Once you get the bias set, readjust EPA to your liking for overall brake force front and rear. Hope this makes sense 
Don't bend the links! Adjust them in and out by screwing the adjuster
I run about 70% rear 30% front so I can slide around tight spots on our small track.
There was a setup manual referenced much earlier this year I used. It might be for building a Losi. The idea is that you apply brakes while on the bench then hold down the front two wheels and one rear - lift the other rear off the ground and try to turn it. Repeat for holding both rear wheels down and one front and lift one front off the ground and turn. I use a rubber band on the brake lever on the TX and put my upper arm accross the two fronts and wrap that hand around to the back then have a free hand to lift the 4th tire up
Works for me. If you set the EPA for almost locking up the "stronger" end then the opposite end will rotate much easier. The % is a guess. Once you get the bias set, readjust EPA to your liking for overall brake force front and rear. Hope this makes sense Don't bend the links! Adjust them in and out by screwing the adjuster
08-31-2009, 08:33 PM
#9
i just run rear brake and a little front brake hardly none, i tried more front brake then rear and i dint like it cause it makes the buggy push and wont let let rotate ,i just have it where the brakes dont lock up u dont want that
i usally just hit the brake a little before i go into the turn ,some people do try and let off early and roll without brake i tried that its kind of hard aleast with gas
i usally just hit the brake a little before i go into the turn ,some people do try and let off early and roll without brake i tried that its kind of hard aleast with gas
08-31-2009, 09:22 PM
#10
most if not all full size race cars brakes are front bias AFAIK...
08-31-2009, 10:56 PM
#11
While I know that race cars have adjustable bias, a lot of it is just simple physics. Under deceleration the inertia/weight transfers to the front. Your front brakes have to work harder/apply more force to absorb the energy to stop. This is why full size race cars have such huge front brakes in comparison to the rear. In on-road/high traction situations, brake bias is useful in changing the corner entry handling characteristics of a car if braking is necessary going into a corner. Moving the brake bias toward the front brakes makes the car tighter and more stable while braking and entering a turn. Moving the brake bias toward the rear makes the car looser while braking and entering a turn. With off-road, you don't have the same tight/stable situation since traction is much less. An "on-road" brake setup would lock & slide or tend to push on an off-road car. Full size examples similar to RC would be Rally cars which use a rear bias to compensate and avoid losing control.
If you "bench set" your brake bias to 50-50 front/rear the actual bias when on the track will be more like 70-30 front/rear in performance as the front tires load up. I think most people talking about a rear bias on the bench (40/60, 30/70, etc.) are actually looking for a neutral bias on the track where such a setup in the loose conditions would perform closer to 50/50 in actuality.
If you "bench set" your brake bias to 50-50 front/rear the actual bias when on the track will be more like 70-30 front/rear in performance as the front tires load up. I think most people talking about a rear bias on the bench (40/60, 30/70, etc.) are actually looking for a neutral bias on the track where such a setup in the loose conditions would perform closer to 50/50 in actuality.
09-01-2009, 12:39 AM
#12
Tech Master
you got that the wrong way round amoeba
09-01-2009, 01:42 AM
#13
