Jammin JPX 21 Plus ( new)
#61
I normally seal every engine i get and didnt this one. i was running 086 with short header. switched it 2 tanks ago for 053 and long header for the indoor season. Any other pipe youd suggest? il seal the carb base and i have no doubt that this will resolve issue. if not il try different button.
#62
cool. i hadnt sealed it there yet so i will. thanks for your time on this. im not sure how much this engine will be ran between now and spring cause of small indoor racing although il let know how goes.
#63
Tech Addict
Hay guys ran this moter today at club race.Was going to race at ks. pro series race today but was rained out.Race was postponed to sun. so i get to race two days ! This moter ran great all day but was still breaking in so i was unable to get a full race tune on this mill.This moter is a handfull to drive with my current setup even with very rich seting . This thing is a monster Very snapy and powerful . Moter was very rich in my main but still had plenty of power to clear jumps . Good enough for 2nd place in the a .I think it droped its nuts in the main because it got real rich bout 3 mins. into race came off at 170F. Right now im running this in a heavy D8 carbon shoes 1.1 clutch springs 8mm. res. and a msr1005 pipe on 30% byrons . Going to install 1.0 or 0.9 clutch springs to soften the hit.Very happy right now will see how it goes sun.
#64
Tech Addict
Guys FYI. the needles on these are more sensitive than other mills. So take your time to adjust your tune and all is well.Seems like 1 hour on this carb is like 2 on others.And make sure you seal the carb real well.Unlike other moters where you are trying to find the power you want this moter has more than enough.You might find your self detuning this mill for some tracks.If you are finding that this moter is to much like on a slick or low bite or is just to much for you to handle in the past i have found the TTR2035 pipe and 0.9clutch springs do tame this beast.And run time with the TTR2035 is very goodThe 2035 will take away some Hp. and top end but will still smoke every mill on the track
#65
Tech Elite
iTrader: (61)
#66
086 IMO the best matched pipe for this engine.... my second favorite is a JP4.......I have ran a 1005 and felt it was too peaky, also a 2035 but felt it killed the midrange and top end too much....the 086 is perfect !
#68
#69
pretty cool homemade rig there max .....i know alot of people are using break in stands you know more inside like in garages with ventilation ...most i see dont use an air filter ..partly due to being inside ...partly due to finding a rig with the right bend in it to stay out of the way of the propeller ...what do you think about not using an air filter in the right controled area such as inside with ventilation? also what did you use there for your airfilter ? i should be getting an rd logics break in bench befoore the start of next season ...i cant wait ...as i have been seeing alot of people using them ...just seems like the way to go for break in ...thanks ...
Depends what your after with the engine...if you just want it tuned a little better for the track I can do that for as low as $75.00, but if you want a full out crazy engine then that will run $125.00.. For the most part i get very good gains from just the $75.00 mod, my full out engines can sometimes be a handful to handle, but they are extremely impressive and will definitely get noticed wherever you run them..With altering the timing and flow I can tune the engine to suit your needs, so talk to me about what your after and we can work something out..I live in Winnipeg Manitoba Canada
No problem !
#70
Tech Elite
iTrader: (61)
The RD bench is good...we use the RD prop and cone setup which allows us to use a small airfilter.....If your careful having no filter should be fine... you could also stretch a small piece of oiled fabric over the neck if you don't have enough room for a filter..To me anything is better then nothing, tho i know many who don't use any filter and have no issues
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#71
max seems to be forgetting the crazy fuel spittage with no filter.....when we first first ran the bench I didn't even bother with the stock plate and went right into fabbing what you see in the vid....i know its ghetto...but it works like a charm....you can sit it on the ground like in the video or place it on a table screw in the 2 screw's and it stay's put.....the motor mount's are from a old Jammin Pro as the RD mounts are JUNK and use the small 3mm nuts to slide it into place...imo its a joke...throttle is a savage 90 arm with a couple pieces of threaded rod and a return spring...works just like a servo........me and max are firm believer's in varying the throttle as in the video....sticking to 1 rpm for any constant time isn't the best if you ask me personally....we have had Extremely good luck with the bench and its easily seen over 100 motor's in the last 2-3 year's....the filter neck is some old 1/10 neck i found in my bin of old junk...the filter is a STS onroad filter we got from back in the STS days....1 thing that you can do is shim the prop out to clear more of the filter...but Be CAREFUL as if you shim it too far the threads will strip on the nose cone as there isn't enough threads to bit down and its only alum so it will strip...we've been through 2-3 nose cone's over the years.
on the fuel spitage thing...for some reason when there's no filter on the air over the carb inlet causes a vacuum and actually sucks the fuel from the carb and Splashes it on the block....i honestly dont know how some are working benches with out filter's...but that was 1 thing i remember in the very beginning and since using a filter everything is obviously bone dry after a run...Wrapping the head is also 10000% Critical...the air flow over the motor is Soo extreme that it WILL NOT allow the motor to run at proper temps and WILL pooch the motor in no time...I use tin foil first then a neoprene sock over top to keep the foil in place.
#72
Tech Elite
iTrader: (61)
max seems to be forgetting the crazy fuel spittage with no filter.....when we first first ran the bench I didn't even bother with the stock plate and went right into fabbing what you see in the vid....i know its ghetto...but it works like a charm....you can sit it on the ground like in the video or place it on a table screw in the 2 screw's and it stay's put.....the motor mount's are from a old Jammin Pro as the RD mounts are JUNK and use the small 3mm nuts to slide it into place...imo its a joke...throttle is a savage 90 arm with a couple pieces of threaded rod and a return spring...works just like a servo........me and max are firm believer's in varying the throttle as in the video....sticking to 1 rpm for any constant time isn't the best if you ask me personally....we have had Extremely good luck with the bench and its easily seen over 100 motor's in the last 2-3 year's....the filter neck is some old 1/10 neck i found in my bin of old junk...the filter is a STS onroad filter we got from back in the STS days....1 thing that you can do is shim the prop out to clear more of the filter...but Be CAREFUL as if you shim it too far the threads will strip on the nose cone as there isn't enough threads to bit down and its only alum so it will strip...we've been through 2-3 nose cone's over the years.
on the fuel spitage thing...for some reason when there's no filter on the air over the carb inlet causes a vacuum and actually sucks the fuel from the carb and Splashes it on the block....i honestly dont know how some are working benches with out filter's...but that was 1 thing i remember in the very beginning and since using a filter everything is obviously bone dry after a run...Wrapping the head is also 10000% Critical...the air flow over the motor is Soo extreme that it WILL NOT allow the motor to run at proper temps and WILL pooch the motor in no time...I use tin foil first then a neoprene sock over top to keep the foil in place.
on the fuel spitage thing...for some reason when there's no filter on the air over the carb inlet causes a vacuum and actually sucks the fuel from the carb and Splashes it on the block....i honestly dont know how some are working benches with out filter's...but that was 1 thing i remember in the very beginning and since using a filter everything is obviously bone dry after a run...Wrapping the head is also 10000% Critical...the air flow over the motor is Soo extreme that it WILL NOT allow the motor to run at proper temps and WILL pooch the motor in no time...I use tin foil first then a neoprene sock over top to keep the foil in place.
#73
Tech Elite
iTrader: (61)
heres the linky for that cylinder koozie ...gmk makes the best stuff ..stuff that really works ...inmho
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...eak-In-Sleeves
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...eak-In-Sleeves
#74
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: CRESCENT CITY CA. NORTHERN TIP OF CALIFORNIA
Posts: 395
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
JPX.21
Ha if anyone has 2-3 gallons on the new + can you tell me what your run times are.
#75
Tech Addict
Well guys I finished up the Ks. pro series rd.#5 today and moter ran great!Highest temp was 237 F. out side temp was about 90 .Have not tried to push run time since my main was only 30 min. My car was set up very very bad for my race had to fight the car the whole race and had 3 flame outs cause my idle was set to low.Still got 2nd. in the A and won the state championship in sportsman buggy.Going to put my old setup on this moter cause with msr1005 pipe and 1.1 clutch it is way to nasty for me!My old set up was 2035 pipe 0.9 clutch springs cut carbon shoes odonnell hot plug 30% nitro.This set up is very crisp bottom to top and smooth with good fuel mileage witch suits most of the tracks hear in Ks.. Our tracks tend to be med. size and low to med bite.I have ran a jp4 on these moters as well and liked it.Wont race nitro for a couple of weeks but will chime back in and try my old set.