jabberingjimbo

I agree with the truggy length chassis, and buggy width.
Control tyres would be OK if they are available and fit Slash/17mm all around.

Engines should unlimited along with the fuel tanks I planning a .90 4stroke and 2 speed in mine

Just wish there were more popular of here in the UK.

aaron2u

iTrader: (75)

Hmm, this is a fun class. I only have about 3 tanks on my Mugen CORR, and wish I had more time to run it, but I had to convert my buggy back over for a points series.

Here is what I've kinda deducted so far in re to the conversions. As others have stated, the tires really do make the truck. Of course the body is a necessary evil, and a truggy chassis is a must...

But to get the bodies to last, you definitely need a cage! Bumpers may lessen the blows the body takes enough to not need a cage though. I have niether and have already gotten several spots where the body is obviously gonna break.

Engine size shouldn't matter, as well as fuel tank capacity.... As it these trucks are a completely different animal to drive!

Chris K

iTrader: (46)

by jove, I believe he's GOT IT!!!!!!! (in my best fake English accent!)

I need to get some pictures taken of the Kyosho and Mugen conversions I've done - they're pretty sanitary and the only parts that needed to be fabricated was a mount for the body posts - so that they would line up with the cage. An actually, that takes a bit of time BUT the effort is worth it!

This is the Kyosho in action!





Which honestly doesn't look any different then a standard SC8 - so I guess you'll just have to take my word for it!

I'll try to get some taken in a week or so!!!!

pete 26

Nice trucks guys.Keep them pics coming and take ther shells off so we can rip your ideas. LOL.My camera is toast but I'll try to get some pics up this week.
Aaron,I think there needs to be a fuel capacity limit and an engine spec of 28 or larger.The fuel limit would insure everyone would have to pit.Having the big motor is just cool.Race .21's cost too much and the people attracted to this class would probably prefer the extra displacement.The tires will keep it even, especially with a .28.
Jimbo,the four stroke idea would probably work out great as it would hookup better out of the corners.Awesome idea.Can't imagine the sound of 10 of those on a track.Post pics when you finish please.
We need an ultra thick body for these trucks as tha A/E body is thin and brittle.Not to mention expensive. Maybe someone will step up and make one.
A tip guys.Run a heavy flywheel on these trucks to vastly improve traction and enable you to get on the gas out of a corner much earlier.It's almost like cheating.Everyone will think you juiced your tires........ Our local track is allowing Proline Moab tires as they are very similar in performance as the A/E tire offering no advantage whatsoever.They cost much less and look great on black rims. Very scale tread pattern.

aaron2u

iTrader: (75)

Hey Pete... I was agreeing with you in a round about way about the fuel capacity. Definitely should go with a truggy tank if the conversion allows. That was a cool part about the Mugen conversion, as the footprint is about the same for everything, including the fuel tank. The only real difference is that the droop screws in the front arms miss the chassis.

The idea of running .28's and bigger seems spot on too. Shouldn't have to run them as hard to get the performance out of them. Also, as you may have seen in the pics, I don't have tires yet... Thanks for the tip on the Moab's, I'll look for a cheap set!

carlosm

iTrader: (17)

I've got a losi 8 1.0 truggy that I'm looking at doing a conversion to.. I think (if I did my measurements right) Everything will be about this same as the SC8 if I run the truggy chassis with the buggy arms... Length / Width / Wheel base... Now I just need to figure out if I should run the truggy gearing or buggy gearing (ring & pinion).. also should I stick with the truggy shock towers or buggy shock towers... Putting the slash body on it ...looks like it should mount up without much modification... Then need to figure out bumpers, sidebars or roll cage.

Pete what wheels are you mounting the Moab tires on? Wich moab tires are they? Do you have a part number? Thanks

pete 26

Run the buggy gearing.The tire diameter is the same as a buggy.The truggy gearing would be too low.You may have to go with the SC8 body.The slash body is a little too short for MOST truggy chassis.Go with the truggy shock tower on front and the buggy tower in the rear.You get a little more steering in the rough and a better jumping truck.I do not use a front swaybar but I limit downtravel.The Proline Moabs I use are medium compound and I mount them on black Panther buggy rims.Sorry no part number.When you install the buggy center diff and spur gear you may have to elongate the motor mount holes on the truggy chassis in order to move the engine closer to the smaller spur gear.Drill the appropriate sized hole just beyond the bolt slot then use a dremel cutoff wheel to cut the sides of the slot out ending at the hole you drilled.WALLA. Perfect bolt slot.......

carlosm

iTrader: (17)

Thanks for the info Pete! No need to elongate the engine mount slots for the Losi 8 1.0 based chassis as both the buggy and truggy both came with 48T spur gears... Good info on the the ring and pinion... will need to make some mods to the rear buggy shock tower to accept two body mounting posts... it will be good R&D though... Looking forward to this... now just need to find an inexpensive used doner buggy.. for my creation.... will post pics as I build.

Rocket XUT

iTrader: (4)

Wouldnt just be easier to "run what you brung" When the truggy class first started they ran ton of differnet stuff till a standard was set.Why try to pigen Hole something. If its fast than people will try it. Then the class will evolve around it. Right now with no rules you can try new stuff. And if it works You can be on the leading edge of a new trend. You never know the end product were all buying a year or two from now may something you tried or won a big race with.

Joe_Racer

iTrader: (31)

Here is mine. It is a Jammin Truggy chassis with the buggy drive train. AE SC8 roll cage, body and tires. No buggy chassis should be allowed, Truggy only.

NitroLuver

iTrader: (48)

def should be truggy chassis,but what about the other stuff what are the limits? I for one think the motor should be limited to a specific one if you're gonna call it a spec class which motor that is I am unsure...maybe an AE .28 since that's what the SC8 comes with or maybe a picco .28? dynamite .28?

pete 26

Not a spec class.Just a class with specific rules.Engines of .28 or larger would set this class apart from the rest.Plus they're more affordable than the race .21's.A very strong reliable.28 can be had for around $120.00 to 180 with more power than you will ever need.These motors run and tune more reliably and last longer than .21's and can produce more power. There ability to hold a tune makes them begginer freindly.Tires will be what keeps it even.The problem is tire selection.If you don't want the A/E tire you must run buggy tires.Then everyone will say your cheating.The Moab tires won't make you any faster and look very realistic.Lap times are the same.So I use them because they're affordable.My modded Platnum = Drake .28 is a tire eater especially on the bluegroove tracks we have in Florida.The SC8 tires actually chirp when you lock them up entering a corner.How cool is that.

That Jammin' is sick Joeracer.Nice work.Thats what this class is all about.

aaron2u

iTrader: (75)

In re to the rear body mounts... Mine lined up alright using the rear wing assembly. What I did do though is reverse the adjustable part of the wing where the the wing bolts on. Then I removed some material and used the Mugen rear body mounts that would normally go into the shock tower, along with the actual mounts. No idea how this would fit if there was a cage installed....



If you look at the pics above it may look as though the rear of the body is mounted high... Its a bad pic because the truck wasn't at ride height in the front. On the other hand, I mounted the body as low as possible with the upper limit of suspension travel.

Chris K

iTrader: (46)

I think that tires is where there should be only one choice - and that would be with the Associated wheel and tire in my opinion. MOABS are a cool tire - we've actually got a few guys running them on buggys and truggies at our track - they last forever and honestly on my home track are VERY hooked up - probably more so then the Associated tires. BUT, let's look at it this way - whatever you folks can make work at your track should be the BEST solution for YOU. Cages and Associated bodies give the trucks similar appearance (with the exeption of my evil handling BR50!) and allow you to have fun running realistic looking CORR trucks - and that's what it's all about.

At my home track, we've not taken ANY position on engine - simply because we believe that the Associated tire will only hook up so much power - after that point it becomes an excercise in throttle control - which is fun for some, not so much for others![/

Soooo, the bottom line to all of this is that you need to come up with rules that WORK where you race! AND, it would certainly be wise to check with the track owner to see his/her opinion on this and possibly get some additional input. As r/c hobbiests, I think that we sometimes get carried away with creating rules and policeing them rather then concentrating on having fun and being a little less concerned that non one is 'cheating'. A top level driver - no matter WHAT he is driving will run at a TOP LEVEL (hence the name! ) But seriously, you can make this as complicated or as simple as you and your track owner(s) choose!

Basically at Timberline Raceway, our rules are: Truggy chassis/buggy arms closely approximating the SC8, any engine/pipe, Associated body or similar PROPERLY FITTING SC body & Associated SC wheels and tires. Simple, eh???

Honestly, with this class, it's all about the visual!

Integra

iTrader: (8)

Ok first of all....Yes .21's are more expensive then sport .28's....BUT they DO NOT last as long...cheaper motor's are made from cheaper materials...and therefor WILL not last as long....2ndly they DO NOT make more power then race .21's....yes they have more Overall Tq...but the top end power which what really matter's makes the sport .28's look like a turtle trying to catch the hare......Mandatory .28's IMO is a stupid idea....forces you to overpower the chassis and waste fuel....in this economy i would be looking for the most fuel efficient motor to get the job done....and a Sport .28 Isnt it.