How hard IS it to build an MBX6?
08-02-2009, 05:15 PM
#2
Mugen cars usually go together without much trouble. You might run into a small snag or two due to the lack of good text but people on here will answer any questions you might have.
Just make sure you have some good metric allen drivers. You could build it with the included L wrenches but I would not advise it.
Just make sure you have some good metric allen drivers. You could build it with the included L wrenches but I would not advise it.
08-02-2009, 05:19 PM
#3
You'll do fine if you go slow and pay attention.
08-02-2009, 05:48 PM
#5
1. sand the diff cups and inside the gearbox
2. before you put the pillow balls in the upper and lower arms (in the front), pre thread the arms, ie take a same size screw or the balls themselves and turn them with a pair of pliers. do this and you wont strip the ball head.
3. grease the outdrives (the metal things that go into the diff cups), do not overfill the spider gears. fill just above the crosspins.
4. they are NOT self locking wheel nuts. You must tighten them.
5. when shimming the diff (you will know because they will show you a pic of a shim on the outdrive going into the case). leave just a tick of play between the bevel and conical. the pic shows shimming for tighter gear mesh. Well both of mine had to be shimmed for less.
6. make sure the bevel gear (the one that connects to the center drive shafts) is very very snug with the universal cups.
7. you will more then likely put one or more of the arms upside down or on the wrong side. There will be a very small L or R in the lower corner. Find it.
8. the clutch can be a little tricky. you will need ALOT of the shims. the pic shows only two. Keep about .5 mm of play between the bell and screw at the end of the shaft.
9. when setting the gear mesh between your clutch bell and spur. Get a plastic baggie from your kit (one of the thinest ones) and put it between your bell and sput and hold the engine and bell against the spur when you tighten it. I screwed this up pretty bad before i learned. Make sure your entire drive train is free and smooth as a baby's ass
10. last but not least. there is a protective cover over the lexan body. LEave it on while you paint the underside
2. before you put the pillow balls in the upper and lower arms (in the front), pre thread the arms, ie take a same size screw or the balls themselves and turn them with a pair of pliers. do this and you wont strip the ball head.
3. grease the outdrives (the metal things that go into the diff cups), do not overfill the spider gears. fill just above the crosspins.
4. they are NOT self locking wheel nuts. You must tighten them.
5. when shimming the diff (you will know because they will show you a pic of a shim on the outdrive going into the case). leave just a tick of play between the bevel and conical. the pic shows shimming for tighter gear mesh. Well both of mine had to be shimmed for less.
6. make sure the bevel gear (the one that connects to the center drive shafts) is very very snug with the universal cups.
7. you will more then likely put one or more of the arms upside down or on the wrong side. There will be a very small L or R in the lower corner. Find it.
8. the clutch can be a little tricky. you will need ALOT of the shims. the pic shows only two. Keep about .5 mm of play between the bell and screw at the end of the shaft.
9. when setting the gear mesh between your clutch bell and spur. Get a plastic baggie from your kit (one of the thinest ones) and put it between your bell and sput and hold the engine and bell against the spur when you tighten it. I screwed this up pretty bad before i learned. Make sure your entire drive train is free and smooth as a baby's ass
10. last but not least. there is a protective cover over the lexan body. LEave it on while you paint the underside
08-02-2009, 07:30 PM
#6
Tech Master
Sounds like the student has become the master! Way to pay attention Dreaux.
08-02-2009, 07:39 PM
#7
Its about as hard to build a modern rc kit as it is to read the instructions twice over. All the newer vehicles, parts are so much more precise, fit is much better across the board. old cars, especially 10th scales would take filing of parts, sanding, trimming, etc, etc.
Just take it step by step, don't rush it, build it over say a weeks time, depending on how much free time you have. Make sure everything is tight, locktite anything that may back out of metal parts. I've never built a mugen, so i'm not familiar with their manuals, but if they are as in-depth as an Assocuiated manual, you will feel very comfortable the whole way through.
and like someone else said, ask questions on here if you get lost!
Just take it step by step, don't rush it, build it over say a weeks time, depending on how much free time you have. Make sure everything is tight, locktite anything that may back out of metal parts. I've never built a mugen, so i'm not familiar with their manuals, but if they are as in-depth as an Assocuiated manual, you will feel very comfortable the whole way through.
and like someone else said, ask questions on here if you get lost!
08-02-2009, 07:41 PM
#8
my driving is getting better too.
08-02-2009, 07:49 PM
#9
Its about as hard to build a modern rc kit as it is to read the instructions twice over. All the newer vehicles, parts are so much more precise, fit is much better across the board. old cars, especially 10th scales would take filing of parts, sanding, trimming, etc, etc.
Just take it step by step, don't rush it, build it over say a weeks time, depending on how much free time you have. Make sure everything is tight, locktite anything that may back out of metal parts. I've never built a mugen, so i'm not familiar with their manuals, but if they are as in-depth as an Assocuiated manual, you will feel very comfortable the whole way through.
and like someone else said, ask questions on here if you get lost!
Just take it step by step, don't rush it, build it over say a weeks time, depending on how much free time you have. Make sure everything is tight, locktite anything that may back out of metal parts. I've never built a mugen, so i'm not familiar with their manuals, but if they are as in-depth as an Assocuiated manual, you will feel very comfortable the whole way through.
and like someone else said, ask questions on here if you get lost!
use thread lock but don't use it on your servo saver shafts and engine mount screws (under the chassis) if you do use just a LITTLE LITTLE BIT. all the other metel to metal is ok.
08-02-2009, 10:26 PM
#11
Sounds like if you get in a pinch and need a little extra help, you will have someone around you. Like everyone else said though. Take your time and DO NOT BE AFRAID TO ASK QUESTIONS!!! Sometimes people can be harsh around here, but it is better to ask in advance and save yourself the pains later on. I had a lot of issues on my first build I ever did, but I didn't really know what I was doing and I never asked questions. I was really to throw it all away very quickly...and then someone helped me out. WOW was i dumb.
08-02-2009, 10:45 PM
#12
You might also want to leave the S3 O-rings out of the diffs (the ones that go behind the planetary gears.)
Also, there are a few mods you can make that will keep things running more smoothly. For instance, I would suggest trimming back/rounding the edges of the black plastic splash guard in the area near the carb boot. Another thing I do, since the pipe sits very close to the tank is that I put some heat insulation material on the side of the tank facing the pipe to avoid unnecessary heat transfer and potential vapor-lock.
-Leave off the little rubber boots on the driveline CVDs; they have been known to come loose and cause damage, especially to the fuel tank.
-Grind down the aluminium pylon that holds the pipe wire; the latter is very close to the fuel tank and with heavy chassis flex, the tank can hit the pylon and crack. That's about all I can think of at the moment.
Also, there are a few mods you can make that will keep things running more smoothly. For instance, I would suggest trimming back/rounding the edges of the black plastic splash guard in the area near the carb boot. Another thing I do, since the pipe sits very close to the tank is that I put some heat insulation material on the side of the tank facing the pipe to avoid unnecessary heat transfer and potential vapor-lock.
-Leave off the little rubber boots on the driveline CVDs; they have been known to come loose and cause damage, especially to the fuel tank.
-Grind down the aluminium pylon that holds the pipe wire; the latter is very close to the fuel tank and with heavy chassis flex, the tank can hit the pylon and crack. That's about all I can think of at the moment.
08-03-2009, 06:56 AM
#13
LOL
I'm considering buying a brand new one, unless I can find a nice roller. But if I did, how long do you think it would take you and me to build it if I brought it over?
It's not the BUILDING of the car that I am concerned with, I am sure I could do it, it's just all these little "tips" and "secrets" about building this car that are probably NOT in the manual, but rather just from people having "trial and error" situations.
Kind of like how that one guy a few posts up is saying stuff like "the instructions dont use enough shims here, and etc. etc."
08-03-2009, 07:06 AM
#14
LOL
I'm considering buying a brand new one, unless I can find a nice roller. But if I did, how long do you think it would take you and me to build it if I brought it over?
It's not the BUILDING of the car that I am concerned with, I am sure I could do it, it's just all these little "tips" and "secrets" about building this car that are probably NOT in the manual, but rather just from people having "trial and error" situations.
Kind of like how that one guy a few posts up is saying stuff like "the instructions dont use enough shims here, and etc. etc."
I'm considering buying a brand new one, unless I can find a nice roller. But if I did, how long do you think it would take you and me to build it if I brought it over?
It's not the BUILDING of the car that I am concerned with, I am sure I could do it, it's just all these little "tips" and "secrets" about building this car that are probably NOT in the manual, but rather just from people having "trial and error" situations.
Kind of like how that one guy a few posts up is saying stuff like "the instructions dont use enough shims here, and etc. etc."
oh. almost forgot. The throtle linkage gave me fitts. you might want to consider getting the dynamite linkage kit up front. I just now have the linkage figured out. and it still gives me fits.
08-03-2009, 07:33 AM
#15
Another thing worth doing if you're handy with an exacto knife is to make some gaskets out of heavy card-stock paper, felt or even some gasket material for between the gearboxes and the chassis. In a pinch, a little grease will do, it just guarantees the inside of the gearboxes stay clean.