Igniter in: works, Igniter out: stals
08-02-2009, 07:48 PM
#17
How am I supposed to tell that? Roll my hand over what?
08-02-2009, 08:52 PM
#19
ok, yes, just like before
08-02-2009, 09:02 PM
#20
????
How was it before? Tight, small pinch, or no resitance?
If there is little to no resistance the motor may be shot.
Things I nromally look at:
Glow plug
air filter
Idle gap "if it is too far open it will throw all your other setting completly off"
needles
wet exhaust
smoke
compression
Clutch
How was it before? Tight, small pinch, or no resitance?
If there is little to no resistance the motor may be shot.
Things I nromally look at:
Glow plug
air filter
Idle gap "if it is too far open it will throw all your other setting completly off"
needles
wet exhaust
smoke
compression
Clutch
08-02-2009, 09:14 PM
#21
it was the same, u needed alot of force to push it through the top.
The only thing on your list that I see, is that I have sometimes some fuel in liquid form fly out of the exhaust
The only thing on your list that I see, is that I have sometimes some fuel in liquid form fly out of the exhaust
08-03-2009, 07:37 AM
#22
nbum[
08-03-2009, 07:42 AM
#23
Nik,
without seeing it or hearing it am at a loss. If your saying everything is checking out it's gotta be a tuning issue. Not sure of your level as far as tuning. Most look at their needles like the face of a clock and only adjust a hour at a time. Ig you know your stock settings go there and start tuning slowly from there. You said you idle gap is ok. When you remove your air cleaner and look into the carb is should only be open a mm or so.
without seeing it or hearing it am at a loss. If your saying everything is checking out it's gotta be a tuning issue. Not sure of your level as far as tuning. Most look at their needles like the face of a clock and only adjust a hour at a time. Ig you know your stock settings go there and start tuning slowly from there. You said you idle gap is ok. When you remove your air cleaner and look into the carb is should only be open a mm or so.
08-03-2009, 07:52 AM
#24
I'm having the same issue with a Trinity ExTech .21. Will only run & rev with glow ignitor attached, take it off and it dies no matter where the rpm's are. I only have 1/2 gallon on it. I've tried four new plugs, checked the head bolts, back plate, new exhaust seals, replaced the entire fuel system, checked carb boot, carb pinch bolt, and air filter boot. I even opened a fresh gallon of fuel, same thing. When I took the engine out the chassis was clean as was the flywheel so I don't think the front bearing is bad. ? Any ideas?
08-03-2009, 11:13 AM
#25
yes, the Idle gap is perfect. and yes, I did take the filter off to check it. And I am kinda of completely confused. It makes a completely normal noise, the same noise as when it usially runs. The only difference there is that it just cuts off without the ingiter.
08-03-2009, 11:20 AM
#26
I have this issue with my fairly new motor. Because its still tight, I run it very rich, so to get it to run on its own, I have to run it a bit with the ignitor on to get over 200 degrees, then it will idle without an ignitor..
If your mixture is super rich or super lean, it will not want to idle
also, I had this issue when the exhaust gasket from block to header was not the correct one.
If your mixture is super rich or super lean, it will not want to idle
also, I had this issue when the exhaust gasket from block to header was not the correct one.
08-03-2009, 11:29 AM
#27
change the plug
08-03-2009, 11:51 AM
#28
well my car is stock, and if you hold it with the ingniter in it still stalls after a while so I dont have enough time to get it to 200
08-03-2009, 12:12 PM
#29
08-03-2009, 12:21 PM
#30
I did not get what you just said....