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Trying to start engine for the first time and 1 question:

Trying to start engine for the first time and 1 question:

Old 07-10-2009, 08:52 PM
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Default Trying to start engine for the first time and 1 question:

I am trying to prime my engine by blowing into a fuel line to get the fuel closer to the carb, and I don't hear a leak, but the fuel isn't flowing into the line to get to the carb.

I just want to confirm that the line into the carb comes from the bottom of the fuel tank and the line to the pipe goes into the top of the fuel tank.

Assuming this is right, does anyone have any suggestions or thoughts?

Thanks.
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Old 07-10-2009, 08:54 PM
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Make sure the cap is sealed and make sure you're not blowing into the pipe. When I'm in a hurry and doing something else I'll catch myself doing that.
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Old 07-10-2009, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by aradaiel View Post
Make sure the cap is sealed and make sure you're not blowing into the pipe. When I'm in a hurry and doing something else I'll catch myself doing that.
I have even tried detaching the fuel line from the pipe so I can blow directly into it. I am still not getting any fuel moving towards the carb...
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Old 07-10-2009, 09:21 PM
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1. Pre-heating the engine is excellent to do. 2. Also loosen the glow plug about one turn. After the engine fires you can tighten it. 3. Let the starter box spin up before pushing the car's flywheel against the starer wheel. If the engine stops turning over stop trying to start it. 4. If the piston gets stuckUse a screw driver to turn the engine until it's freed up. 5. Each time you try to start the engine put the engine flywheel in a position that it can turn almost a full revolution before going back to TDC(Top Dead Center.) This would be turning the flywheel counterclockwise, with your fingers, until you start to feel resistance. This way the engine will already have momentem by the time you push the car against the starter box wheel.

AFter you guys get around a gallon of fuel through the engine you won't need to do these pre-start items anymore. The engine will have less mechanical pinch and it will be in the power zone. There will be compression still, but no more piston getting locked at TDC. Then the starter boxes will be just fine. Remember the engines will need heating and cooling for break-in.

After running the engine always put the piston at Bottom Dead Center so the sleeve can cool and contract evenly. If the piston is left at the top of the sleeve during cool down it can alter the life of the engine because of un-even cooling.
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Old 07-10-2009, 10:35 PM
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good info but not what he asked! He's got a
fuel block! Check the lid to the tank, make shure there is no block there then take the line off the other side of the tank and make
shure there isnt a tank block.. ECT just work
your way down the line!! Hope this helps!
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Old 07-10-2009, 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by air8 View Post
1. Pre-heating the engine is excellent to do. 2. Also loosen the glow plug about one turn. After the engine fires you can tighten it. 3. Let the starter box spin up before pushing the car's flywheel against the starer wheel. If the engine stops turning over stop trying to start it. 4. If the piston gets stuckUse a screw driver to turn the engine until it's freed up. 5. Each time you try to start the engine put the engine flywheel in a position that it can turn almost a full revolution before going back to TDC(Top Dead Center.) This would be turning the flywheel counterclockwise, with your fingers, until you start to feel resistance. This way the engine will already have momentem by the time you push the car against the starter box wheel.

AFter you guys get around a gallon of fuel through the engine you won't need to do these pre-start items anymore. The engine will have less mechanical pinch and it will be in the power zone. There will be compression still, but no more piston getting locked at TDC. Then the starter boxes will be just fine. Remember the engines will need heating and cooling for break-in.

After running the engine always put the piston at Bottom Dead Center so the sleeve can cool and contract evenly. If the piston is left at the top of the sleeve during cool down it can alter the life of the engine because of un-even cooling.
This is all good information thanks.

I am having a problem where my "pinch" seems to be too great for the starter box to overcome. How can I turn it using a screw driver to free it up?

I will try to let the starter box spool up before touching it to the starter box.

I will also try to get the flywheel into a position where it can turn one full revolution before encountering the pinch.

My thumb is getting raw from turning the flywheel.
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Old 07-10-2009, 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by JPierson View Post
good info but not what he asked! He's got a
fuel block! Check the lid to the tank, make shure there is no block there then take the line off the other side of the tank and make
shure there isnt a tank block.. ECT just work
your way down the line!! Hope this helps!
I think the fuel was working its way into the engine, I was expecting to see more of a discoloration that was happening so I didn't know the fuel was moving.
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Old 07-10-2009, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Garet Jax View Post
This is all good information thanks.

I am having a problem where my "pinch" seems to be too great for the starter box to overcome. How can I turn it using a screw driver to free it up?

I will try to let the starter box spool up before touching it to the starter box.

I will also try to get the flywheel into a position where it can turn one full revolution before encountering the pinch.

My thumb is getting raw from turning the flywheel.
Just place the flat head on the flywheel and pop the flywheel out of TDC.
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Old 07-10-2009, 11:29 PM
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OK - Now I'm really stuck,

I can't turn the flywheel in either direction. The pinch has locked the piston up.
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Old 07-10-2009, 11:33 PM
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Heat it up it will free it up a bit!!! You should heat it up every time you start it! Use a heat gun... or hair dryer if you have to!
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Old 07-10-2009, 11:34 PM
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You have to heat the engine with a heat gun or a hairdryer to get it unstuck..warm it up good and then try the screwdriver to the flywheel again
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Old 07-10-2009, 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by JPierson View Post
Heat it up it will free it up a bit!!! You should heat it up every time you start it! Use a heat gun... or hair dryer if you have to!
Can I out any WD40 or equivalent into the sleeve and piston chamber to reduce the pinch?
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Old 07-11-2009, 01:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Garet Jax View Post
Can I out any WD40 or equivalent into the sleeve and piston chamber to reduce the pinch?
HEAT IT UP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 07-11-2009, 03:17 AM
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after you run it a few 15-20 times it will start to free
up! You dont want to loose the pinch to fast its good
to have some, you just need to heat it up for now l, if it gets stuck use a screwdriver on the flywheel to free it after its heated! Another thing that will help is to make shure its at TDC or close to it when you try to
start it, that way there is more momentum to get it going!
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Old 07-11-2009, 07:46 AM
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Well - sleeping on it seems to have made the difference. I wasn't even getting the engine to turn over last night. This morning it started up on the 3rd try.

I have it on a platform for now and I'm glad I did. When the engine started on its own, the wheels started to spin. The throttle looks to be as closed as possible. Can I assume I need to adjust my low needle a little to closer the throttle?

Thanks a lot for all the suggestions.
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