sokar

Well, I was driving the OFNA this morning (I got it started using the ghetto start method) and a low speed crash snapped the turn knuckle. -_-. I also noticed that the resonator is now fused into the plastic chassis wing. Who the heck designed this thing? This car is so fragile.

As for my old T Maxx, it could take a serious beating, but it still had serious problems from the start. Since the macstar pull start is like $30, I might go for a bump box (someone mentioned I could get one for like $30 used). I didn't quite expect this car to be falling apart the third day driving it. I bought the Hyper 8 because I was told it was a tank.

dandrat

iTrader: (5)

the hyper 8 is a pretty tough car, you have just had a bad run of luck with it.
fix it, and in time you will have a better opinion of it. ofna's are underrated and are usually great deals for the money. also, for a ready to run the macstars not a bad little engine.
no more buyers remorse.

ace921000

iTrader: (7)

I find it hard to believe all your issuses lay with the buggy. I would say this stuff is more driver error. I have had a hyper 7 for like a year and have the same pull start. I rarely break parts, and when I do it is understandable. As for the engine mount screws, the Hyper 7 uses the same setup and I have my engine on in under 10 minutes. The hyper 7 is a tank, and I find it hard to believe the hyper 8 isn't even better then the 7. I would have to say the problem lies with you, not the car.

cary

iTrader: (67)

I do not think that one better than the other it's when
you first start out with this hobby (sounds better than addiction)
the learning curve is very steep and you have to just go with it
and no one tells you that you will work on it more than you
drive it car prep is the most important thing some days just don't
go right but when it does and it comes all together man what
a high (that's the addiction part) it has a reward all it's own

Chris__RC

iTrader: (7)

When you get your first car you need to get out all the kinks. Only way to know is to drive the car. I had alot of days where I went to the track and didn't even finish a tank before something broke or an electronics issue the first couple times there. That is why the pros almost never break-they have so much runtime in their cars and they got all the kinks out of it.

sokar

I suppose you're right. I just feel a little alone when this stuff happens to me. I hear of people not having to replace things within at least a few months, when my cars break within a few days. However, if you say the pros break things all the time within the first few times at the track, then maybe I was misinformed.

howtowakeakar

iTrader: (4)

I still have yet to get all the kinks out of my MGT, still can't get through a full run without something going wrong.

But once everything starts working good it's hard to break something.

aradaiel

iTrader: (49)

Learning curve is definitely very steep. Time and patience will overcome.

That small crash that broke the part was probably the straw that broke the camels back. You probably had a bigger crash that weakened it. I learned to not bend back tie rods and a lot of other stuff due to them breaking later, usually in the A-main.

sokar

Will the steering knuckle for the hyper 7 fit the hyper 8? They have different part numbers but I see websites marketing the knuckle for the "Ofna hyper 7/8". I can find the Hyper 7 knuckle for really cheap, and in the pictures it looks quite identical.

ckfactory

iTrader: (36)

not too sure if they fit but i would suggest getting CNC Aluminum knuckles because the stock pot metal knuckles are junk to begin with. that was the first upgrade i did to my hyper 7 back in the day. the hyper 8.5 knuckles might fit the hyper 8.

sokar

I found out the hyper 7 knuckles do fit the hyper 8. I'm going on a trip on July 5 ( want to bring my car) and hope they come by the fourth. I just ordered them.

sickboy

iTrader: (75)

I have had a Hyper 8. That buggy was the most durable buggy I have ever owned. You can break anything if you try hard enough.

Espeefan

iTrader: (3)

Get yourself a starter box (same thing as a bump box) and half your problem will be taken care of. I've had pull starts, roto-starts, and now I run starter boxes exclusively. I'll never go back! The starter box is the most reliable way to fire up any nitro machine. It gets rid of the one way bearing, which is prone to fail at the worst time, and makes starts quick and easy.

It almost sounds to me like your lack of experience is making the path hard to travel. An engine with a poor tune can be a real bear to start, especially with a pull starter, and I don't doubt that contributes to a shortened pull start life.

As for the engine mount, you should always loosely start the screws on any piece, which has more then one screw, by hand, and then when they are all started, plus nice and straight (no cross threading), then you can go ahead and tighten them down evenly, following a criss cross pattern.

Keep working at it, and you'll get things figured out. We all break parts at some point or another.

tristyn

iTrader: (4)

Honestly, what you do if you want to get rid of alot of the little constant problems is dump the rtr. Buy a pro kit, do a little research before build to find its week points and purchase a few hop ups. Install quality servo's, receiver, engine, pipe, one piece motor mount ,clutch and bump box. If you clean and maintane you should be good to go anytime you wish.

pdmustgt

Amazing part blame the car but they don't tell what they may have done wrong. I ran monster truck for years I've seen many who pull the cord out too far but blame the engine go figure. Why would anyone take the engine to mount screws out so the nuts can fall out. have fun getting them all back in place. You end up taking the mounts off and putting them on the engine. You be better off taking the mounts off. So you have to readjust the bell to spur gear clearance no big deal to do.