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-   -   Has anyone created an 8ight 2.0 from 1.0 (https://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-off-road/302819-has-anyone-created-8ight-2-0-1-0-a.html)

pmcderm993 06-06-2009 10:44 PM

Has anyone created an 8ight 2.0 from 1.0
 
Has anyone actually succeeded in moving from the 1.0 chassis to the longer 2.0? I have seen a lot of talk, but nobody has said they have actually succeeded and what it costs and what parts are really needed.

I don't want any theory here. Has anyone actually done this and running the so called 1.5? If so, is it worth doing? I have an RTR chasis with a Go Tech .21 motor. Should I just switch the chassis for a 1.O tuned flex chassis or get the 2.0 chassis, which is a little longer?

Teufel Racing 06-07-2009 12:36 AM

I have as well as a few other in my area,

Is it worth doing? I think so. I noticed a huge difference just going to the 2.0 chassis and related hardware to go to the 1.5.
Doesn't seem like a couple of mm's would make a difference, but it does.
Parts needed at a min. are the 2.0 chassis and center rear drive line, along with the four small counter sunk screws for the chassis where the droop screws hit the chassis.

I did the conversion with those parts and added the 2.0 radio tray, throttle linkage, and 2.0 body to top it off. All the rest were straight off the 1.0. I have been running it like that for about 6 months now. I did mod the radio tray side guard for the throttle servo. It's a simple notch for clearance around the throttle servo when using the 2.0 radio tray. I could have got the new 2.0 side guards, but I had a couple of new 1.0 sets to use up first.

Cost. Depending on where you get the parts, right around 100 bones to do a min. setup. Chassis and rear drive line. Add in the radio tray, throttle linkage and body and you'll be closer to 150. Again that will depend on where you get the parts. I think the chassis runs 99-110 new at most shops in my area, might find one on the flea bay for less. Rear drive line will run 12-22 bones depending on where you find it. If you do the conversion, you'll be glad you did. :nod: :D

pmcderm993 06-07-2009 06:11 AM

Outstanding reply. Thank you.

pmcderm993 06-07-2009 06:13 AM

I wonder if anone has done a 1.5 truggy? It seems like they made many more changes on the truggy than they did the buggy.

plod 06-07-2009 08:10 AM


Originally Posted by pmcderm993 (Post 5906722)
I wonder if anone has done a 1.5 truggy? It seems like they made many more changes on the truggy than they did the buggy.

Far too many to do a full conversion.

I originally was going to update my 1.0 8T to 2.0 spec, by first buying the buggy bits that would fit, and then changing over as the other parts became available but the cost outweighed the cost of the new car.

I know of a few guys that have changed the shock towers, body mounts, chassis, body, and centre rear driveshaft to get a 2.0 look.

rearviewmirror 06-07-2009 08:19 AM

I think for the effort it would be easier to just sell what you have and buy a new or used 2.0. And if you go through the effort of doing it then want to change, good luck selling it. Trying to explain it a converted 1.0... I know I wouldn't buy a hacked up car. And again, cost and expense will probably not yield a much faster lap time unless you've squeezed absolutely every ounce of performance out of the 1.0, but I'm guessing only Drake can do that.

Marzac2 06-07-2009 11:36 AM

I like the 1.5 set-up we've been running.

2.0 chassis/shock towers/body mounts/body/rear center CVD/and a couple of odds and ends.

Combined with the 2mm wider hex hubs and Zero offset wheels.

This yields a pretty narrow truggy, but that's how I like to run.

Some of the other guys running this set-up have switched to the 1/2" wider hex hubs for a wider track. But they stick to the zero offset wheels.

Feels very responsive on the track.:)

guss2009 06-07-2009 08:25 PM

A before and after picture would be nice or just an after picture to see what it look like with the changes.

jewn_beef 06-07-2009 08:38 PM

am running truggy 2.0 chassis and rear center drive shaft only with the 2.0 body mounts rears have to drill in the holes in 1.0 tower 2.0 body think it is better than 2.0 seems more responsive then full 2.0 set up just imo
buggy conversion no one has mentioned the that the front carriers must be switched out to 2.0 ones so can run the inside hole position on the carrier helps the steering alot i have 2.0 buggy with 1.0 radio tray with carbon stiffener like it better then the 2.0 tray

racerx1920 06-07-2009 08:49 PM

1.0 truggy to 2.0
 
i got a 1.0 truggy from a friend and upgraded it to the 2.0. best thing i could have done. it is awsome. i was able to turn a lap as fast as the fastest guy at out trace in only my 2ed time driving it. the best part is i only have 300 in the truck.

bradfox2 06-07-2009 10:54 PM

I did the complete conversion ( minus front shock tower because everyone runs the front 1.0 tower anyways) for about 190 bucks. All of the parts were purchased from ebay chop shops with live cashback. I can say I am very glad I did it this way and the 2.0 is really worth having.

pmcderm993 06-08-2009 07:39 PM


Originally Posted by bradfox2 (Post 5910028)
I did the complete conversion ( minus front shock tower because everyone runs the front 1.0 tower anyways) for about 190 bucks. All of the parts were purchased from ebay chop shops with live cashback. I can say I am very glad I did it this way and the 2.0 is really worth having.

Was that a buggy or truggy conversion?

JAMMINKRAZY 06-08-2009 08:00 PM


Originally Posted by pmcderm993 (Post 5913865)
Was that a buggy or truggy conversion?

sounds like buggy to me.:nod:

MaTt 93 06-09-2009 02:00 AM

Hi
i'v heard that there are some changes in the front end of the 8ight 2.0. Could someone please tell what they would be?

Thanks,
MAtt:)

Integra 06-09-2009 06:40 AM


Originally Posted by MaTt 93 (Post 5915035)
Hi
i'v heard that there are some changes in the front end of the 8ight 2.0. Could someone please tell what they would be?

Thanks,
MAtt:)



new servo saver plastics/top.....new camber hole in hub.....different shock tower's.....chassis has droop screw protection...they did update the bones to a harder material..but i feel they wear practically the same as before.....i cant think of anything else in the front end specifically.


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