EB MODS HEAD BUTTON
08-08-2009, 10:15 PM
#31
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
Hi Tony, I just got the Button head and installed it in my old regular vspec (more than a 1.5 years with I think over six gallons). I tested it on our tracks. All I can say is wow!!! Turned my old vspec into a beast. I can honestly say this thing works and I could swear its like driving a speed.
When i was about to call it a day during my last tank my car stalled dead in the middle, so i was kinda confused cause its running real well. I though maybe the fuel line came off or something. I checked the car everythinngs in place. My next suspect was the clutch. Took it apart, nothing was wrong. I tried rotating the flywheel and its quite gritty so I opened up the engine and saw the piston shattered into several pieces. I was shocked to see that cause I mostly see torn rods but the piston still intact. I approached veterans on tracks and they told me my engine was over compressed becuase of the ping marks on top of the piston and the botton head. I think I shimmed the thing wrong. My friend and I was confused as to what to put in as shim cause the instruction wasnt clear about it. It was written in the instruction not to use both shim together so we can only pick one. I chose the copper one and this is what happed.
Whats the right way to shim this thing? I run a p4 plug and 25% nitro fuel. The intructions told us to use the silver shim for 30% p4 plug so we kinda use the copper. Veteran racers told me just be safe and put both shims first so that the same mishap would not happen again then move from there.
I am sad in a way cause i wanna try my old vspec for longevity. But I thing the shear compression ratio that this button brings smashed it. metal fatigue i guess or over compression the thing imploded. But I am still happy with the button. Imagine what it can do for a speed tuned. I cant let this thing happen to a 500 dollar mill.
When i was about to call it a day during my last tank my car stalled dead in the middle, so i was kinda confused cause its running real well. I though maybe the fuel line came off or something. I checked the car everythinngs in place. My next suspect was the clutch. Took it apart, nothing was wrong. I tried rotating the flywheel and its quite gritty so I opened up the engine and saw the piston shattered into several pieces. I was shocked to see that cause I mostly see torn rods but the piston still intact. I approached veterans on tracks and they told me my engine was over compressed becuase of the ping marks on top of the piston and the botton head. I think I shimmed the thing wrong. My friend and I was confused as to what to put in as shim cause the instruction wasnt clear about it. It was written in the instruction not to use both shim together so we can only pick one. I chose the copper one and this is what happed.
Whats the right way to shim this thing? I run a p4 plug and 25% nitro fuel. The intructions told us to use the silver shim for 30% p4 plug so we kinda use the copper. Veteran racers told me just be safe and put both shims first so that the same mishap would not happen again then move from there.
I am sad in a way cause i wanna try my old vspec for longevity. But I thing the shear compression ratio that this button brings smashed it. metal fatigue i guess or over compression the thing imploded. But I am still happy with the button. Imagine what it can do for a speed tuned. I cant let this thing happen to a 500 dollar mill.
08-09-2009, 08:30 PM
#32
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
Hi tony, got this from the mugen site. It accurately answered my shimming question. I really made a mistake in shimming cause i used the copper shim 25% nitro and p4. But more than this I thing metal fatigue was the main issue why the piston shattered. Can wait to put this on the speed.
UPDATE!
New V2 (version 2) EB Mod JX-21 Head Buttons
The new V2 head buttons offer the same performance gains as the V1 head buttons but allow for further tuning options. The shimming has changed on the V2 head buttons.
The standard shimming is now one 0.2mm (0.008") aluminum shim for 30% nitro and altitudes under 3500 feet. If you're in higher altitudes (above 3500 feet) and run 30% nitro the deck height is dropped by using the 0.1mm (0.004") copper shim instead. With the V1 head buttons you had to run 40% nitro since you could not drop the deck height.
For extended run times using 20% nitro fuel use the 0.1mm (0.004") copper shim only. Testing has seen an increase of almost two minutes run time. Of course the motor makes less power on 20% fuel but with the performance gains of the head button it can be a nice trade off (especially since 20% fuel is cheaper than 30%).
Ed also recommends the use of a P4 plug due to inconsistencies amongst 30% nitro blended fuels (just because the label reads 30% does not mean it's 30%). Personally I haven't had any issues running the P3 plugs in my JX-21 B01 engine but a very small number of guys have had tuning issues. If you have P3 plugs I would use them unless you see signs of detonation on the plug or have tuning issues. On the dyno, the motor makes better power using the P4 plugs. If you're running 25% nitro fuel, follow the shimming instructions for 30% and use the P3 plugs.
The V2 plugs can be easily identified by two marks machined into the top of the head button.
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ ____
Tony P.
UPDATE!
New V2 (version 2) EB Mod JX-21 Head Buttons
The new V2 head buttons offer the same performance gains as the V1 head buttons but allow for further tuning options. The shimming has changed on the V2 head buttons.
The standard shimming is now one 0.2mm (0.008") aluminum shim for 30% nitro and altitudes under 3500 feet. If you're in higher altitudes (above 3500 feet) and run 30% nitro the deck height is dropped by using the 0.1mm (0.004") copper shim instead. With the V1 head buttons you had to run 40% nitro since you could not drop the deck height.
For extended run times using 20% nitro fuel use the 0.1mm (0.004") copper shim only. Testing has seen an increase of almost two minutes run time. Of course the motor makes less power on 20% fuel but with the performance gains of the head button it can be a nice trade off (especially since 20% fuel is cheaper than 30%).
Ed also recommends the use of a P4 plug due to inconsistencies amongst 30% nitro blended fuels (just because the label reads 30% does not mean it's 30%). Personally I haven't had any issues running the P3 plugs in my JX-21 B01 engine but a very small number of guys have had tuning issues. If you have P3 plugs I would use them unless you see signs of detonation on the plug or have tuning issues. On the dyno, the motor makes better power using the P4 plugs. If you're running 25% nitro fuel, follow the shimming instructions for 30% and use the P3 plugs.
The V2 plugs can be easily identified by two marks machined into the top of the head button.
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ ____
Tony P.
08-12-2009, 06:51 AM
#35
oggietiu, sorry to hear about your engine issue. Shimming the head button correctly is critical. This is why Ed now put the two marks on top of the head button to help identify which head button you have and how to shim it correctly.
On another note, anyone that is installing the EB Mod head buttons, please use a new glow plug (i'm assuming most people would but figured I'd mention it anyway). After you run the engine for a bit it is a good idea to "read" the glow plug to see what the engine is doing. If you ever meet Ed Bridges at teh track you'll always see him bust out is little eye-loop and read plugs....LOL
I was away the past week on vacation in Florida at Disney World with my wife and kids. But the EB Mod V2 head buttons are back in stock as well as Mugen Ninja JX21-B01A engines (stock or with the EB Mod V2 Head Button installed). I will have fully modified EB Mod JX21 B01A's back in stock in a week or so. If anyone is interested in one please contact me as I'm taking pre-orders for them now.
On another note, anyone that is installing the EB Mod head buttons, please use a new glow plug (i'm assuming most people would but figured I'd mention it anyway). After you run the engine for a bit it is a good idea to "read" the glow plug to see what the engine is doing. If you ever meet Ed Bridges at teh track you'll always see him bust out is little eye-loop and read plugs....LOL
I was away the past week on vacation in Florida at Disney World with my wife and kids. But the EB Mod V2 head buttons are back in stock as well as Mugen Ninja JX21-B01A engines (stock or with the EB Mod V2 Head Button installed). I will have fully modified EB Mod JX21 B01A's back in stock in a week or so. If anyone is interested in one please contact me as I'm taking pre-orders for them now.
08-31-2009, 09:39 AM
#38
oh and ezvee the EB button mod doesn't change the compression ratio,, not sure if you were talking about that or that he has it set for 30%.
Last edited by jpalessi; 08-31-2009 at 10:31 AM.
09-01-2009, 06:19 AM
#40
I have been using this head button since Joe (jpa.....) above reccomended it. I absolutly love it. I am running os speed engines. I am in ca and temps in the summer are usuay 95-100+ my engines seem to like the p3 plugs they seem to tune a little better so that's what I run in them. Great product though 
09-03-2009, 09:56 PM
#41
what does this button look like and whats different. any pics?
09-20-2009, 06:06 AM
#42
Well first time out with the head button this weekend, Must say i was a little skeptical at first but the head button does make more power in the speed. And not just a bang and gone power but spread entirely over the rev range, we ran it with the P4 and OS 2060WN and got 10:50 run time till she ran out, And being a medium tight track we decided to run the OS 2050MP and wow did that bring the speed 2 to life an awesome power delivery the 808 went like a scolded cat.
10 min heats made easy.....
Going to try different inserts this weekend at the local track but am interested in trying the 5.5mm insert for run time now we have the extra power might be a good combo, we ran the 6mm this weekend on 30% nitro.
10 min heats made easy.....
Going to try different inserts this weekend at the local track but am interested in trying the 5.5mm insert for run time now we have the extra power might be a good combo, we ran the 6mm this weekend on 30% nitro.
09-26-2009, 10:43 PM
#43
Well first time out with the head button this weekend, Must say i was a little skeptical at first but the head button does make more power in the speed. And not just a bang and gone power but spread entirely over the rev range, we ran it with the P4 and OS 2060WN and got 10:50 run time till she ran out, And being a medium tight track we decided to run the OS 2050MP and wow did that bring the speed 2 to life an awesome power delivery the 808 went like a scolded cat.
10 min heats made easy.....
Going to try different inserts this weekend at the local track but am interested in trying the 5.5mm insert for run time now we have the extra power might be a good combo, we ran the 6mm this weekend on 30% nitro.
10 min heats made easy.....
Going to try different inserts this weekend at the local track but am interested in trying the 5.5mm insert for run time now we have the extra power might be a good combo, we ran the 6mm this weekend on 30% nitro.
If you want to get more run time I would suggest limiting your throttle EPA so the carburetor slide is 1-2mm's shy of being fully open before switching from the 6.0mm to 5.5mm insert. OS only makes down to a 6.0mm insert for the V-Spec, Speed and JX21. The 5.5mm insert is for the .12 motors. Ed actually put the OS carburetor on a flow bench using all the different OS inserts, as well as the Innovative Designs 6.0, 7.0 and 8.0mm inserts, and does not recommend going smaller than the 6.0mm.
09-27-2009, 01:22 AM
#44
Thanks for the advice tony will try that EPA first, Must admit we were very happy running the 6mm insert and pulling 10min easy i will bring him (my young lad) in at the 10min mark even so for a 20min main 1 stop is better than the 2 we used to do...running the 6mm. Id hate to think how it would go with the 7mm insert.
