Tigerdrive

Old 05-09-2009, 12:35 PM
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I am a hamfisted son of a bitch sometimes I swear. I was runnign my Mutilator in my neighbors front yard, and he has several randomly placed piles of sand for no apparent reason all about. Makes for good jumps, but my pull start got some pebbles in it and froze up. I took it apart and BOOOOOOIIIIIINNNNGNGNGNGNG!!!! The spring went nuts. Now I have been through this before but decided it was a good time to get the roto staret that I have been meaning to buy for it. Oh, please, no "BUMP BOX" stuff, I know, I know they are better yada yada.

So I buy a tiger drive, get it and it doesnt fit. First of all, the elongated ears that allow it to bolt to various engines hit the chassis plate. Is it ok to grind those ears down for clearance?

Second, my screws arent long enough, and I knew that, but decided to try and force them anyway, because I have no patience whatsoever. I took out the engine, so I could just put it on there, and the screws fit and tightend but then the ol "one last little crank" kicked in and I popped the threads in the crank case. So I dug through my screw collection, and found some screws that looked the same, only longer. I started screwing one in and it was tight going in. I thought "oh, well I popped the threads, so it will be ok........POW, and now I have a cracked crank case because the screw was a bigger diameter. Apparently my eyesight is not what it used to be.

So, I now hate tigerdrive, as it was their fault they didnt send me longer screws, and their fault they dont make a unit for each individual engine and car combo.

I needed new bearings anyway, so I will find a new case, and try and do it right the second time, which is how I do just about everything it seems.
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Old 05-09-2009, 12:46 PM
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Shoulda just got a BUMP BOX




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Old 05-09-2009, 01:47 PM
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People dont recommend stater boxes for no reason..let me tell you my experiences with roto starts...maybe you can learn from my mistakes and save yourself the hundreds of dollars:

For 2 years I used nothing but roto-starts with my Hyper engines..I tried them all, and they all did the same thing...the roto start back plate would break after about a gallon of fuel, or the one way bearing, or the shaft would strip after about 1 gallon of fuel. So every gallon I would have to buy something new, ranging in price from $25-$60..every gallon! after 3 gallons I could have had enough money for the best starter box on the market, plus battery and charger..not to mention the fact that once you change out the backplate on your engine to bump start. the engine has more power and RPM's..so you get cheaper, faster, less hassle, less maintenance and less pain in the AZZ!

you may not want to hear it, but until you switch to a box you will just continue to be annoyed, frustrated and broke!
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Old 05-09-2009, 02:40 PM
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argee get a starter box as soon as u can and do get a gell cell 12v for it.
and u dont have to spend $100 on one ehtier ,i had roto starters pain in the $a)ss and then the one way bearing wares out from starting to much . i had a pull start uh never again bad bad bisters on my wrist and u have to tune the engine almost perfect to get it started, thats the good thing about stater boxs u dont have to have u tune perfect just to start it. go to your lhs if u dont have one go to www.gshobby.com good prices or www.carolinarc.com since u have a ofna i would look at the ofna blue starter box
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Old 05-09-2009, 02:42 PM
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i meant carolinasrc.com
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Old 05-09-2009, 04:00 PM
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There are 2 reasons roto starts even exist. First they are a little better than pull starts, second, it is so a company can sell a RTR without a starter box which keeps the price way down. Most everybody has a drill, so instead they include a 50 cent piece of metal so you can start your car. This should be regarded as a temporary solution until the car owner decides to stick with the hobby, then they should invest in a starter box.
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