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what would cause my engine not to idle??? > what would cause my engine not to idle???

what would cause my engine not to idle???

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Old 05-05-2009, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by dreaux View Post
how do i get the crankshaft out??? And how do i remove the clutch without messing up my springs??
You have to remove the springs and shoes to get to the clutch nut. Then grab the flywheel with some pliers and loosen the clutch nut.
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Old 05-05-2009, 07:12 PM
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shooting in the dark,,,, fire up the engine and hold it at a steady rpm then spay the motor (all over) with "starting fluid" and see if the rpm's go up. if they do, you have a air leak. you can find a leak pretty easily with starting fluid, and you can get it at an auto parts store.
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Old 05-05-2009, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by dreaux View Post
took out piston and sleeve. They are fine there is hardly even a ring yet. Can get the piston up a little more then halfway. There is alot of oil residue on the crankshaft from last time i cleaned it. What would be a good way to clean the engine and get rid of the oily residue??? I think that may be the prob. I also put the wd40 and AlOT of after run oil all through the engine (carb case sleeve etc.) could my carb be messed up too?
Dude that stuff should have burned off when you got it running. Did you put half a bottle of ARO in it? If there's a lot of oil inside the motor chances are that it's really rich.

Go to factory settings and then lean the low speed an hour at a time until it fires up and idles. Set you idle gap at 1mm to start off with. Then as you get it re-tuned set your idle to where it wants to be. Don't be afraid of where your needles are if you see allot of smoke or you see oil spitting out of the pipe, or it's slow just lean it.
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Old 05-05-2009, 07:17 PM
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Calm down there mister my engine is toast. Although some of the things you have done to it should kill it. I still believe the engine is fine. Most likely just a bad tune. OS engines don't hold onto metal pinch like most engines do. If you have compression with the plug in, your engine is most likely fine. Don't use so much oil in the engine. Clean the engine with fuel and use a tiny bit of after run, no WD-40 in there. Replace your plug and go back to factory settings. Be patient when you tune it, and make 1 hour adjustments at a time, no more. Best advise I can give is what I have already given you several times. go to the local track and ask a racer to help you. If you go on a practice day or early on a race day, the racers will have more time to help you.
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Old 05-05-2009, 07:18 PM
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yeah the i just pulled the shoes off without damaging the springs no problem. I would really like to get a look at the conerod and cranshaft. Do i just tap on the end of the shaft to get it out?
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Old 05-05-2009, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by jrwoodchuck View Post
shooting in the dark,,,, fire up the engine and hold it at a steady rpm then spay the motor (all over) with "starting fluid" and see if the rpm's go up. if they do, you have a air leak. you can find a leak pretty easily with starting fluid, and you can get it at an auto parts store.
That is another good idea. You can use nitro spray for this test too.
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Old 05-05-2009, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by dreaux View Post
yeah the i just pulled the shoes off without damaging the springs no problem. I would really like to get a look at the conerod and cranshaft. Do i just tap on the end of the shaft to get it out?
Pull you sleeve and piston out. Then push on the crankshaft and it should pop out.
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Old 05-05-2009, 07:21 PM
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the screw that holds my carburator on was not very tight. could that be the problem??? I still would like to get a look at my rod
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Old 05-05-2009, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by dreaux View Post
the screw that holds my carburator on was not very tight. could that be the problem??? I still would like to get a look at my rod
That will cause and air leak.
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Old 05-05-2009, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by dreaux View Post
the screw that holds my carburator on was not very tight. could that be the problem??? I still would like to get a look at my rod
That carb bold could have been the whole problem, big air leak source.

If you have had the piston and sleeve out like you said before, you have already seen the rod.
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Old 05-05-2009, 07:30 PM
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dreaux just courious where you are located?
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Old 05-05-2009, 07:34 PM
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troubleshooting is done. I feel like a dumbass now. sleeve good. piston good. rod good. looks like a new engine cause well it is. the only explanation is the lose screw on the intake boss. Is there suposed to be a lockwasher on that screw?
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Old 05-05-2009, 07:38 PM
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No lock washer no locktite. Just check it every once in a while.
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Old 05-05-2009, 07:46 PM
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also, push the carb into the crank case wile you tighten the screw.
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Old 05-05-2009, 07:49 PM
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dreaux..you really need to find someone local to help you. I am serious dude..this hobby is too expensive to just wing it! You'll be dropping $400 a month at the rate your going..Go to the track, find some help..Offer to pay them if you have too but you need to learn from someone. There's too many variables that we cannot see, hear, or touch to be able to help you. i dont want to see you throw your stuff in the trash..if you don't find someone local to help you...its just a matter of time
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