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Old 05-02-2009, 12:55 AM   #16
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jdeadman - I think that as soon as you either remove the head button, piston/sleeve, or con rod, you need to go through the break-in process all over again (or at least some period of easy running) to allow the moving parts to settle in again.

My personal threshold for temps is 300, not 250. There are some engines out there that don't start making really good power until 250+ degrees. I read somewhere a while back that 320 degrees is where the seals and nylon bearing cages start to deteriorate due to heat.

I use a heat gun and tin foil on my engines and idle them for one tank on the box somewhere around 200 degrees, then start driving them easily for 4-5 tanks after that, again somewhere around 200 degrees. After that, start working on race tune.
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Old 05-02-2009, 02:58 AM   #17
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you can crack the case and run it. it heats up REAL quick ha ha
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Old 05-02-2009, 06:47 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by SkarTisu View Post
jdeadman - I think that as soon as you either remove the head button, piston/sleeve, or con rod, you need to go through the break-in process all over again (or at least some period of easy running) to allow the moving parts to settle in again.

My personal threshold for temps is 300, not 250. There are some engines out there that don't start making really good power until 250+ degrees. I read somewhere a while back that 320 degrees is where the seals and nylon bearing cages start to deteriorate due to heat.

I use a heat gun and tin foil on my engines and idle them for one tank on the box somewhere around 200 degrees, then start driving them easily for 4-5 tanks after that, again somewhere around 200 degrees. After that, start working on race tune.
There is no need to re-break in an engine after disassembling it. I do it to all of my engines every couple gallons. That way I can inspect them, and I know for sure, nothing is wrong with them. It is also a very good way to tell if your tune is good, and if you are running quality fuel.

I personally agree with JAZ. 250*F is my temp limit when it comes to nitro engines.
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Old 05-02-2009, 08:55 AM   #19
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I started breaking in my novarossi bf21 limited yesterday. I wrapped the head with aluminum foil (pre-heated to 175ish) and ran 1 tank on box then placed it on the ground and started doing low speed figure 8ts for a couple more tanks while keeping it at around 200ish. I never stopped the engine, I would keep adding fuel until I had ran about 7-8 tanks and making adjustments to keep my temps close to the same. Each tanks I would run a little more speed at short bursts until I was running some full throttle burst towards the end. In total it ran about 30-45 minutes. Today I will do the same. I will take it easy until I have ran about 15 tanks thru it and keeping my temps around 200-220. I must say this little 3 port is already starting to come to life. The last tank I was on I could not make it die. It idled great. It come off the line good and top end was getting better, all with plenty of smoke !! Everyone has different ways to break in an engine and most are good so pick one and go with it.
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Old 05-02-2009, 10:47 AM   #20
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My personal threshold for temps is 300, not 250. There are some engines out there that don't start making really good power until 250+ degrees.
we are discussing break in..you dont break in your engine at 300 do you?
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Old 05-02-2009, 10:54 AM   #21
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doing well on break in. Idled for a tank then another tank slow i just finished my third tank went slow to medium and i leaned the hsn about a quater turn. I have yet to reach 200 degrees i am getting about 190 when my tank runs out. I was going to lean it 30 degrees next tank and run about medium speed with short burst of WOT.

Please advise. does this sound good so far?
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Old 05-02-2009, 12:35 PM   #22
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You need heat bud...without heat you are not breaking in anything..all your doing is lubricating and stressing the internals..Get it hot...wrap the head in foil..preheat to 200 before you start it..try to keep it at 200-220..make sure you turn the piston to the bottom while cooling, and before you preheat
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Old 05-02-2009, 12:47 PM   #23
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With disassembly I do not remove the piston/sleve just open up every thing and flush it out. you will be amazed at the particles that are sitting in the bottom of your motor. now I like to completely rebuild a motor before I even touch fuel to it. there are lots of places to improve the fuel flow and watch out for any burrs or left over bits from the machining process.

But everyone has their way of breaking in a motor and you just have to find one that makes sense to you so you will 1) remember it and 2) enjoy the process. There are many top racers at our club track that still run the forst 3 tanks on the starter box and do not heat up their motors prior to starting. I cringe at the sight but it works from them.

But I have tried a few of the different methods and prefer mine.
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Old 05-02-2009, 12:53 PM   #24
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doing well on break in. Idled for a tank then another tank slow i just finished my third tank went slow to medium and i leaned the hsn about a quater turn. I have yet to reach 200 degrees i am getting about 190 when my tank runs out. I was going to lean it 30 degrees next tank and run about medium speed with short burst of WOT.

Please advise. does this sound good so far?
Sgtay away from WOT for the first 20 min minimum of breakin using the heat cycle or the first 3 or so tanks of the box method.

190 is pretty close but I would strive to get into the 200's now be careful. if you only lean the HSN the temps will jump when you hit the throttle but will go down again while on idle. if at idle the temps are dropping then you need to Lean the LSN otherwise you risk getting your tune out of wack.

Just FYI


Also remember that there is lots of oil int he fuel we purchase. They say that all you need is 8% that is the break point where the lubrication reaches a max and the rest just gets tossed out of the pipe. But mose fot he fuels we purchase have about 12% or more ( I have seen basher fuel as high as 18%)

so as long as you are in the 200 degrees there is tonnes of lubrication.
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Old 05-02-2009, 01:08 PM   #25
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Always remember to let it cool at BDC!!!!!
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Old 05-02-2009, 01:26 PM   #26
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on about tank number 6. still running medium speeds. temp is not getting high enough. i am afraid to lean it out any more. will run it like it is and get the guy at the hobby shop to tune it for me. Also, last tank it was pretty hard to very hard to start. Is this normal??? and the way i have been getting bdc is move the flywheel left until it stops and right until it stops and take the middle of the two. Let me know if i did anything wrong
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Old 05-02-2009, 02:37 PM   #27
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Who ever said that a heat gun will hurt it is stupid

who ever said that if you take out your internals you have to re-break it in, thats wrong. The only reason you would need to re-break it in is if you replace the piston or sleeve.
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Old 05-02-2009, 02:44 PM   #28
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my mugen 6 is just flat out retarded. Tons of power. I am letting it idle till it gets up to temp and now i am doing as per the instructions and leaning it out. damn just DAMN!!! since i leaned it out i am getting anywhere from 210 to 230. I shut down at about 220. Break in is complete. At least my car thinks so!!!!!

bout to jump from 20 to 30 percent fuel now.
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Old 05-02-2009, 03:03 PM   #29
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bout to jump from 20 to 30 percent fuel now.
you will need to richen it up a little to run the 30% from the 20%. now go race!!!!
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Old 05-02-2009, 03:08 PM   #30
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Nothing like the sound and feel of a brand new well tuned engine!!!

That scream as it rips down the street is the best noise in the world!
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