best break in strategy!
 

im wanting to break in a motor never done in whats the best way the novarossi book's say idle prety high for 30 min then its good to go??:confused::confused::confused:
PLease help i dont wana mess up a motor

i would just break it in like other engines i mean drive a little throttle then half and full . i dont like that idea of letting sit there for 30 secs cause your not breaking anything in like the engine clutch etc and it makes it run hottor if u ask me i done it before.

Heres the way I do it and how I was taught by a pro racer.

Start up the motor and let it idle on the box (yes the old school method)
and tune it so that it spits out fuel while idling. about 100 - 120 degrees (i know, i know my rod is gonna break and some B.S.) Let it idle for 3 thanks none stop making sure it never runs dry.

Then clear it out (get all the oil out of the pipe and run it on the street
start slow 1/4-1/2 throttle input for 2 tanks leaning each tank
the 1/2 to full throttle leaning till you get it at 200*
set you low speed and idle and run it a little rich for a few more tanks
To determine when it is time to race tune the motor will get fatter and fatter on its own on track then haul butt.

I'm on my 8 gallon on the original rod.
:D

awsome! thanks im going to try to do it tomrarow ! on a sport works .21
before i do my novarossi! any other input by anybody?

1. Idle tank though it on the box, wrap head in foil so it gets hotter. when it finishes the tank make sure piston is at the bottom of the stoke and let it cool right down. You could do this for 2 tanks if ya wanted to.

2. start it and just do figure 8 going up and down in speed at about 1/4 throttle, leave foil on the head so it gets up to temp.

3. Repeat step 2 another 2 or 3 times, letting it cool down each time with piston at the bottom of the stroke.

4. Do the same thing again but go up to 1/2 throttle for another tank or 2. You may have to lean out the top end a little to get it to go to half throttle. Make sure you are keeping an eye on the temp and take foil of if it doesn't need it anymore.

5. Do another tank and give it quick burst of 3/4 and full throttle again may need to lean the top end to get it to do it.

buy this stage you would have done about 7 or 8 tanks and you would be able to tune it and start racing but don’t be surprised if it flames out a couple of times! This is because the motor will still be tight. The motor will start to come on after about 2 or 3 litres and you will have a little rocket.
But run it in to the way they say to before this method! Hope this helps.

Below is the method I use. I have many many gallons on my engines. Trust me, this is the way to go.

Engine Tempering & Engine Break-in
Reprinted From S-Grid with Stephen Bess's permission
Below info is from this page: http://rbmods.net/enginetempering.php

If you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore.

From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC (bottom dead center), and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this manner for about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your engine will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your engine's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.

You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory engine settings are very rich on every engine I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.

Rick Brake @ RB Mods -
"Hope this helps; give this break-in method a shot--you have nothing to gain except longer life & more power. Use a MC 59 or the hottest plug you can get and burn 30% nitro. Keep your cool and be patient, It will come in to It’s own after about a gallon of fuel."

Every enginebuilder has it own method: the one says let it idle on the starbox for 1 tank while the other says to drive directly but not full throttle for the first few tanks. My opinion is to follow the manufacters instructions, they know their engines the best:nod:

That's why i use Ford oil in my Ford and Honda oil in my Honda, Because they know thier own stuff better than anybody.

True, But Some are not that great to follow, as they make you put so much stress on the engine when new.. so you then Have to replace parts or the engine sooner.. I personally Use the Heat Method, never had a issue with it at all..

I also go by what joe racer posted.

Just get the engine up to temp a few times and let it cool down. Engines last a long time and have great compression.

Also, make sure to change your air filter lots, when running your engine. You can never be too careful!

+1 On that method way I do it

Novarossi's 30 min. break-in method equals about 5 tanks of idling on the rich side.

I just make sure to heat up the engine to 200 degrees before you crank it up for the early tanks.

I heat the engine up like this every time, so that it minimizes the stress at startup. The engine gets up to operating temp faster, and it seems to run more consistently start to finish.

Copied from Murnan Modified Motors:

Here is how we break in our engines! Privacy Notice
There are different ways to break in your new nitro engine. Here are the ways that we have found work the best to give you a long lasting, fast engine.

For in car break in:
1.) Warm the engine with a heat gun until it is (around 170F).
2.) Start the engine. Then establish a rich idle ( around 7,000 r.p.m.)and let the engine run for 150cc of fuel, then let the engine cool to ambient temperature. Running temperatures during this stage will be between 160-190 degrees F.
3.) Next, with a fully engaged clutch, run the car at a very rich setting for about 750cc of fuel. Make sure the car is very slow at full throttle, and lots of smoke at this stage. If the car wants to go fast at this stage richen the main needle until the car makes lots of smoke, but does not move fast. Maximum R.P.M should be about 15,000 at this point. Let the engine cool again. Running temperatures during this stage will be between 150-170 degrees F.
4.) Over the next 750cc of fuel you can gradually lean the high speed needle. A good method to keep in mind is to go one hour leaner per tank of fuel to be safe. The engine will need to be run at a race setting in order to become fully broken in. Each engine will break in at a different time, and with a different amount of fuel due to differences in manufacturing materials, tolerances, etc… You can know that the engine has fully broken in when you are running the engine at 90-95% of it’s potential, and you can run at this pace without the engine going rich. An engine that is not fully broken in will continue to richen itself on the racetrack.
An engine that is properly and fully broken in will reward you with cooler temperatures, more power, and long engine life.

For Break in using a propeller:
Always keep the cooling head covered so the airflow does now cool the engine too much. You can use aluminum foil for this.
1.) Warm the engine with a heat gun until it is (around 170F).
2.) Start the engine. Then establish a rich idle ( around 7,000 r.p.m.)and let the engine run for 150cc of fuel, then let the engine cool to ambient temperature. Running temperatures during this stage will be between 160-190 degrees F.
3.) Run the engine at ¼ throttle for 450cc of fuel then let cool. ( Temperatures should be around 170-190 F)
4.) Run the engine at ½ throttle for 450cc of fuel then let cool. (Temperatures should be around 180-200 F)
5.) Run the engine at ¾ throttle for 450cc of fuel then let cool. (Temperatures should be around 180-200 F)
6.) Run the engine at full throttle for 450cc of fuel then let cool. (Temperatures should be around 180-200 F)
7.) After this process has been completed on the break in bench, it is time to install the engine in the car, and follow the steps listed above from # 4 until break in is complete.

In reference to the WOT break-in I have used it with the same success as the idle method. I think the most important thing is to have the engine rich and getting some temperature into the engine in the beginning. If you let the engine sit and idle too long it can damage the engine just as you can damage the engine from running them too cold.

shouldnt you just follow the manufacturers instructions??? thats gotta be the best way after all they made the motor