My second blown OS VSPEC in less then a gallon...WTH
04-03-2009, 11:51 PM
#32
Hate to hear about your bad luck... I personaly have ran many Vspecs and had nothing but great luck and performance out of them. I sell and modify more OS engines then prolly any other brand! I have never had one let go on me and i have spun them VERY high on the dyno doing testing and in car as well.... I put my personal engines through A LOT of abuse and they hold up VERY well!
And the new Ninja JX .21... well i cant say enough good things about it! It's what im personally running now and I couldnt be happier with the performance, fuel consumption, ease of tune and reliability.
I would hate to see these events turn you away from a great engine.
And the new Ninja JX .21... well i cant say enough good things about it! It's what im personally running now and I couldnt be happier with the performance, fuel consumption, ease of tune and reliability.
I would hate to see these events turn you away from a great engine.
04-04-2009, 05:37 AM
#33
hey hows it going.
for one, obviously you already stated and realized you made the mistake of buying one used off of ebay. ebay is awesome for getting rc stuff, but i would never suggest to buy used engines from there site. a lot of people stretch the truth in there descriptions., or just outright lie. there are people who are honest on there, but as you learned, its really like rolling the dice.
also, about the warranty.. Have you actually contacted OS ? They are one of the best companys when it comes to warrantying or fixing there customers engines. I think the only one they dont work with is the SPEED version v-spec. But there really good with warrantying the stock blue head V-spec without much or any questions. you would be suprised. give them a try, they usually arent very strick about the reciept and whatnot. If the engines is beat up, i would suggest just getting a new one if it winds up that you have to pay out of your own pocket for all the repairs.
Ive had a lot of luck with the stock os-v-spec, but i do understand that some last longer than others. but I always get atleast 4 gallons out of them. and thats 4 gallons of them running REALLY strong and consistent. Once you realize that you have to start tuning the LSN every other heat or qaulifier, is when i know the engine is starting to see its day. Its the most consistent way to know the engine is about to start getting unrealiable. It will still run, but will want/need to be tuned all the time. especially on the LSN. If you get a new one, you should run like a half gallon or even gallon of fuel through it before you touch the Middle needle. If your not well aqaunted with that setting, it can really mess up the tune and consistency of the engine. Ive been running the OS specs for 3 years now, and i never have to touch that middle needle. anytime i did, it just causes more tuning , more often than neccesary. You dont need to touch that needle for the engine to run ideally at race tune. you can do it all with the high and low speed needles.
I must have run about 12 of the engines in the last 3 years. And the best and quickest way of breaking them in, is to put it on the starterbox, loosen the glowplug slightly, heat it up some (but not totally necessary), lean the LSN to about .5mm's out from flush with the housing, anfd lean the HSN to about .5mm's inside the housing. (if you try to use the stock out of box setting, you will have a nightmare of just restrating the engine every 30 seconds, its way to rich to even run)., then start it up. the engine will be really tight. once you get it started, hold the throttle at like half throttle, and tighten down the glowplug until resistance is felt (you want to tighten it enough so fuel isnt shooting out from around the bottom of the plug)(but you dont need to completly tighten it down). Now run the engine with the car on the starterbox for one or two full tanks with the throttle at about half throttle. make sure the settings are atleast rich enough , so its not completely winding out, but be sure its lean enough to where its not just stalling. since the throttle is half open, you will run through the tanks of fuel very very quickly. Its safe to run the engine at this speed or higher, as long as your not jabbing the throttle to get it there. you may feel it load up, cuasing you to need to give it more throttle to stay running. all this is fine, as long as the throttle movement if smooth. you can get through 2 or 3 tanks like this in less than 5 minutes. if you try to break them in the conventional way, its a real PITA since the engine will cut off a lot, lock up, then you have to start over again everytime. YOu wont need to let the engine cool. get as much fuel as you can through it, without letting it shut off. I like to get a full 500cc fuel bottle through the engine like this. it will loosen everything up quickly, and make the rest of the breakin a pleasure.
after doing this, let the engine cool, fuel it up, then start it again, and start running the car on the ground. if you want , you can richen up the HSN alittle more than you needed to get the initial fuel thorugh the engine and loosen it up. If you run the initial few tanks too rich, you will actually stress the crap out of the conrod bushings on both ends of the rod and wristpin. richer is not always better in cases like this. your engine will run too cold, and everything will be stressed from the pressure of the excess fuel inside the engine not being burnt.
after running a tank of two with the car on the ground, i would bring it right to the track, and start running it. within 2 tanks on the track after these two steps, you should be able to race tune it.
this excact method has given me a LOT of sucess with all my OS engines. My ninja's last what seems like forever (atleast 8 gallons), and my stock v-specs will run at a hard race tune for atleast 4 gallons. (which is really good considering the standard qaulity and low price of the engine.
If you want to get a OS engine that is higher qaulity than the stock spec, but dont feel like getting a speed is cost effective (there 500 dollars on average), like mentioned earlier the OS mugen Ninja JX is an incredible bargain. Its defenitly higher qaulity than the stock spec, and very close to the qaulity of the speed. also , its defenitly smoother and easier to drive than the stock spec. Ive run the ninja in buggy and truggy, and it lacks nowhere on the track. but if your looking for a ton of torque, there arent any engines that can compete with the stock v-spec. in a truggy the power is unmatched on the bottom end, imo.
hope this post helps, and can help you to get your v-specs to last longer.
mike
for one, obviously you already stated and realized you made the mistake of buying one used off of ebay. ebay is awesome for getting rc stuff, but i would never suggest to buy used engines from there site. a lot of people stretch the truth in there descriptions., or just outright lie. there are people who are honest on there, but as you learned, its really like rolling the dice.
also, about the warranty.. Have you actually contacted OS ? They are one of the best companys when it comes to warrantying or fixing there customers engines. I think the only one they dont work with is the SPEED version v-spec. But there really good with warrantying the stock blue head V-spec without much or any questions. you would be suprised. give them a try, they usually arent very strick about the reciept and whatnot. If the engines is beat up, i would suggest just getting a new one if it winds up that you have to pay out of your own pocket for all the repairs.
Ive had a lot of luck with the stock os-v-spec, but i do understand that some last longer than others. but I always get atleast 4 gallons out of them. and thats 4 gallons of them running REALLY strong and consistent. Once you realize that you have to start tuning the LSN every other heat or qaulifier, is when i know the engine is starting to see its day. Its the most consistent way to know the engine is about to start getting unrealiable. It will still run, but will want/need to be tuned all the time. especially on the LSN. If you get a new one, you should run like a half gallon or even gallon of fuel through it before you touch the Middle needle. If your not well aqaunted with that setting, it can really mess up the tune and consistency of the engine. Ive been running the OS specs for 3 years now, and i never have to touch that middle needle. anytime i did, it just causes more tuning , more often than neccesary. You dont need to touch that needle for the engine to run ideally at race tune. you can do it all with the high and low speed needles.
I must have run about 12 of the engines in the last 3 years. And the best and quickest way of breaking them in, is to put it on the starterbox, loosen the glowplug slightly, heat it up some (but not totally necessary), lean the LSN to about .5mm's out from flush with the housing, anfd lean the HSN to about .5mm's inside the housing. (if you try to use the stock out of box setting, you will have a nightmare of just restrating the engine every 30 seconds, its way to rich to even run)., then start it up. the engine will be really tight. once you get it started, hold the throttle at like half throttle, and tighten down the glowplug until resistance is felt (you want to tighten it enough so fuel isnt shooting out from around the bottom of the plug)(but you dont need to completly tighten it down). Now run the engine with the car on the starterbox for one or two full tanks with the throttle at about half throttle. make sure the settings are atleast rich enough , so its not completely winding out, but be sure its lean enough to where its not just stalling. since the throttle is half open, you will run through the tanks of fuel very very quickly. Its safe to run the engine at this speed or higher, as long as your not jabbing the throttle to get it there. you may feel it load up, cuasing you to need to give it more throttle to stay running. all this is fine, as long as the throttle movement if smooth. you can get through 2 or 3 tanks like this in less than 5 minutes. if you try to break them in the conventional way, its a real PITA since the engine will cut off a lot, lock up, then you have to start over again everytime. YOu wont need to let the engine cool. get as much fuel as you can through it, without letting it shut off. I like to get a full 500cc fuel bottle through the engine like this. it will loosen everything up quickly, and make the rest of the breakin a pleasure.
after doing this, let the engine cool, fuel it up, then start it again, and start running the car on the ground. if you want , you can richen up the HSN alittle more than you needed to get the initial fuel thorugh the engine and loosen it up. If you run the initial few tanks too rich, you will actually stress the crap out of the conrod bushings on both ends of the rod and wristpin. richer is not always better in cases like this. your engine will run too cold, and everything will be stressed from the pressure of the excess fuel inside the engine not being burnt.
after running a tank of two with the car on the ground, i would bring it right to the track, and start running it. within 2 tanks on the track after these two steps, you should be able to race tune it.
this excact method has given me a LOT of sucess with all my OS engines. My ninja's last what seems like forever (atleast 8 gallons), and my stock v-specs will run at a hard race tune for atleast 4 gallons. (which is really good considering the standard qaulity and low price of the engine.
If you want to get a OS engine that is higher qaulity than the stock spec, but dont feel like getting a speed is cost effective (there 500 dollars on average), like mentioned earlier the OS mugen Ninja JX is an incredible bargain. Its defenitly higher qaulity than the stock spec, and very close to the qaulity of the speed. also , its defenitly smoother and easier to drive than the stock spec. Ive run the ninja in buggy and truggy, and it lacks nowhere on the track. but if your looking for a ton of torque, there arent any engines that can compete with the stock v-spec. in a truggy the power is unmatched on the bottom end, imo.
hope this post helps, and can help you to get your v-specs to last longer.
mike
04-04-2009, 06:08 AM
#34
And the GRP pipe he bought with it has a gap at the exhaust tip. It wasn't welded properly. Instead of the fuel buildup coming out the side of the car, it was pooling inside the car.
I'm sending you a PM about meeting up next Thursday.
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