BSchorr

iTrader: (101)

I said 16mm bigbores....

sugs

iTrader: (4)

For the X1 or X2? On my X1 I liked silvers all around. For the X2, blue in front, white in back, seems to be the consensus for now.

rallyebmx

iTrader: (21)

And I'm still saying silver springs for 16mm the x1

bigmatt

iTrader: (16)

thats whats on myx1x

bigmatt

iTrader: (16)

thats right, if your x1x is dialed in there is no reason for x2. I have both. I started gathering parts to build the x2 last summer. then when the conversion came out bought it and built the x2. I have a x1 that I really liked, got a good deal on it. thats why I built x2 to race. also have the hyper 8.5 and as far as I am concerned, noway will it handle as well as a jammin. just my opinion. also the x2 seems more stable all around.

Pdpower

Can´t agree on that, the X2 buggy is alot faster overall, lighter, accelarates much better than X1X, i tested both the X1X and X2 and i was 1.5seg's faster on the same track with the X2.
I think the final result is much better than the X1X, IMO.

rangerjkb

iTrader: (45)

Good to hear about the X2 being overall faster than the X1X. Just built the conversion in Feb and looking forward to finishing, then putting it through it's paces on the track. The only area on the track that other brands were difficult to keep up with was in the corner speed department for me, sounds like it's been addressed with the new Buggy. Can't wait to retun this month and do my best to put a Jammin Buggy back into the lead pack in my local area. Much, much practice ahead and learning the new performance characteristics of the new X2B. Reading all the posts (between three forums), sounds like it's best to begin with Chad Bradleys recommended set up.
JB

BSchorr

iTrader: (101)

My steering linkages bind up in the front when I suspend my car up in the air. The bind when the steering gets do about 60% of its travel. but when I set the car down and load the suspension some.. It free's up. So its to do with the tie-rod ends/balls... Do any of you run no droop and let the arms hit the chassis? or do you use the screws?

Set the chassis on the tires, and measure the droop from the table to the bottom of the c-hub?

Seem like my arms will not fall fall enough down with the screws not touching to achieve a 25mm front droop

sugs

iTrader: (4)

BSchorr, if you look closely at the plastic ends, you will see a faint impression of a circle around the hole on one side. On the side with the circle, the hole is a little larger than the one on the other side. The larger hole goes up on the hub side of the linkage, and down on the ackerman side of the linkage.

BSchorr

iTrader: (101)

Ya, they are.. SOmething maybe bent

sugs

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, something must be bent or broken because I can't think of anything else that would cause that.

BSchorr

iTrader: (101)

The hub tie rod ends are ground up some from the wheels, Im just going to start bye replacing them.

When I screw the droop screws in some to life the arm, then the steering free's up. lol

butch man

Not a beat up sticking u-joint at the wheel is it?

BSchorr

iTrader: (101)

Naw... Its the beat up steerting tie rod ends.... I singled it out, its coming from the right side. Ill repace the tire rod ends.

DRKWNG

iTrader: (7)

I would suggest trying Matt Gosch's setup. The shock's with the 1.2 x 6 pistions and losi 20 in front and losi 17.5 in the rear makes the car feel really stable.