8ight 2.0/8ight-T 2.0 Servo Saver Arm
#1
8ight 2.0/8ight-T 2.0 Servo Saver Arm
Hey,
I was talking to a friend that went to the Canadian Winter Nationals this past weekend and he was stating that a lot of the 8ights we breaking servo arms. So basically the servo arm is a week point in the 8ights. He was saying alot of the guys were just putting in GEN 1 springs in the servo arm assembly and it seemed to fix the problem. I have also heard of people putting just the aluminum servo arm in and that fixes the problem as well.
Now my question is, which would you rather do? Should you keep the GEN 2 spring setup and run the aluminum arm, or go with lasts gen arm setup.
Sorry if this is hard to understand.
I was talking to a friend that went to the Canadian Winter Nationals this past weekend and he was stating that a lot of the 8ights we breaking servo arms. So basically the servo arm is a week point in the 8ights. He was saying alot of the guys were just putting in GEN 1 springs in the servo arm assembly and it seemed to fix the problem. I have also heard of people putting just the aluminum servo arm in and that fixes the problem as well.
Now my question is, which would you rather do? Should you keep the GEN 2 spring setup and run the aluminum arm, or go with lasts gen arm setup.
Sorry if this is hard to understand.
#2
Tech Adept
I would just put the 1.0 spring in it and call it a day. I have seen quite a few people run the aluminum arm and then break the lower part. Just my opinion.
#3
I am running the 8T2.0 bone stock. I did buy the aluminum servo saver arm with the truck as I was aware of the weakness, but have not put it on yet. I have just over a gallon on it and with stock spring and servo saver arm is fine, I even run it tighter than most people. I am gonna go ahead and put the aluminum one on for a money race this weekend as insurance.
#4
I would be very careful with the servo saver as I put the alloy servo saver arm on my 8T 2.0 and tightened the spring a little and went to practise and sheared the top off my servo ..a quality kopro and I also had the alloy servo arm on as well so I think the pressure went to the weakest link...the kopro servo splined knob.
I fixed the servo and backed off the spring and raced sunday and it was fine.
I also had issues similar with the 1.0 as stripped 1x servo and bent a servo arm alloy on another so best to keep the springs backed off in my experiance and check its operation regular and make sure it moves freely.
I would never run the spring tight on these vehicles as in time it will cause you issues and I would say the guys breaking the plastic servo saver arms have there springs on the tight side.
I fixed the servo and backed off the spring and raced sunday and it was fine.
I also had issues similar with the 1.0 as stripped 1x servo and bent a servo arm alloy on another so best to keep the springs backed off in my experiance and check its operation regular and make sure it moves freely.
I would never run the spring tight on these vehicles as in time it will cause you issues and I would say the guys breaking the plastic servo saver arms have there springs on the tight side.
#5
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (17)
I switched over to the 1.0 spring after I broke the lower half of the servo saver in my buggy and truggy. The new spring doesn't even fit right in some of the lower servo saver, its too big. Team driver recommended the 1.0 spring to me also. People were breaking them left and right at "Motorama", the cold weather inside did not help I'm sure. There was a shortage of new ones to buy at the event because of so many breaking.
#6
Sounds like I will go with the 1.0 spring. I might be lucky but I haven't broke the 2.0 arm yet so I will either wait till I break it, or wait until a race comes up that I am in.
Ya from my understanding it was basically every 8ight 2.0 at winternats that wasn't changed over broke.
Ya from my understanding it was basically every 8ight 2.0 at winternats that wasn't changed over broke.
#7
3 gallons on my buggy. No problems. Make sure you back the servo saver nut down close to the chassis and thread lock it. You can't run the system as tight as you did on the 1.0 because of the increased stiffness of the srping.
I know some people are running aluminum stuff but then you just rip the top of your servo off. Repairing $100 servos plus the weeks it takes to get them back or........ $8 for new plastics if you do happen to break one. hmmmm.
I know some people are running aluminum stuff but then you just rip the top of your servo off. Repairing $100 servos plus the weeks it takes to get them back or........ $8 for new plastics if you do happen to break one. hmmmm.
#8
About how many threads should the saver be from the bottom on the T 2.0 ? I just picked one up from carolinasrc and was debating on buying the aluminum servo saver arm. But if I'll be safe with just backing the spring down that sounds good to me......
#9
I don't have the 8T. Only the buggy but I'm assuming it should be the same. My collar is flush with the bottom of the post.
#10
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
I switched over to the 1.0 spring after I broke the lower half of the servo saver in my buggy and truggy. The new spring doesn't even fit right in some of the lower servo saver, its too big. Team driver recommended the 1.0 spring to me also. People were breaking them left and right at "Motorama", the cold weather inside did not help I'm sure. There was a shortage of new ones to buy at the event because of so many breaking.
#11
Tech Initiate
What 1.0 servo spring are you talking about? Becouse the 1.0 buggy is not the same than the 1.0 truggy. Some Team Drivers recommend a 1.0 truggy spring in the 1.0 buggy...is that one (1.0Truggy spring) that you are changing to the 2.0 Buggy?
#13
Tech Initiate