bajamike207

good day all. I recently picked up a slightly used mbx5t prospec it goes great im using a Axial 28rr engine the chassis is set up per what the manual says ,it just won't steer it pushes very bad any help would be swell thanks. mike

markr04

iTrader: (1)

I had one. It's a heavy car and turning was nothing like my 8ight. It's still a great car, just need to adjust driving habits to make it work for you.

wallot

use lighter rear diff oil ( I use 2000)
use as little front toe as possible without car being unstable exiting corners and on straights

imaxx21

iTrader: (1)

drop to a 2 rear toe block

bajamike207

thanks for the tips, the manual says diff fluid is 5k 2k 2k that seems seem very light, the local track has a good clay and sand surface, good traction! should i be running heavier fluids? maybe help my steering issues?? any help would be swell. mike

jpalessi

iTrader: (55)

move the upper arms forward.

wallot

I use 7/10/2 in my diffs

allan42r

lets see some pics and see what's going on. the truggy with a 21 , 7 10 3 in the diffs with a more powerfull 28 go with 20 in the center to keep the front from "diffing". also dont use any of the smaller s3 orings in the diffs just the larger s5's that fit over the outdrives.

shocks 450/400 with 1.5 pistons red springs. dogbones level with a full tank of fuel.

what tires are you using on what type of track?

bajamike207

i'm using pro-line bowties mtr m2 our local track has a good firm clay/sand mix after a little watering, lots of traction. i'm going to rebuild the diffs this weeekend (i'm not sure what was used in the diffs before i bought it] it was late in the season.i'try to get some pics soon... i'm using a .28 motor it goes great, just doesn't steer well . i will be rebuilding the shocks as well those oil wts 450/400, what is a good equivelent?? i have lots of different wts from 20 - 50 thank for tips, mike

DOMIT

iTrader: (1)

I haven't had a Mugen truggy, just the buggy... but here are some suggestions based on the buggy:

1) 2 degree rear toe as suggested.

2) IF they make one for the truck, replace the metal front chassis brace with the plastic "turnbuckle" style one. On the buggy that came on the non-prospec car.

3) The happiest I was with the steering on the buggy was when the swaybar end link popped loose during a race... it helped a lot. Try it with no front swaybar... or go to the local hobby shop and buy some piano wire that is about 1/2 the diameter of the stock swaybar, and make you one. Also for smaller adjustments, moving the swaybar end links OUT makes the swaybar act softer, and IN makes it feel stiffer.

You can stiffen up the rear (which makes the front softer by contrast, which is the whole point) by going to the biggest swaybar you can get, and by moving the end links in as far as you can while still allowing full suspension travel without binding.

4) Try 7-10-1 (front to rear) in the diffs. I run 7-10-2 on the Jammin...

5) I don't think the front roll center is adjustable on the Mugen... and that is unfortunate. If it is, go to the highest hole... HOWEVER, if it isn't, you could potentially modify it to raise the front roll center- you'd need to drill another hole in the shock tower where the upper arms attach, higher than the existing one. Leave about 1 hole diameter between... and space the rear plastic piece that holds the bolt up by an equal amount. (changing my Jammin all the way to the upper hole on the upper camber link made a HUGE difference in steering!) I'm not positive of course, because I didn't know enough when I had my Mugen buggy to try this... but I honestly think that would make a dramatic difference in handling on the Mugen.

6) And the biggest single change you can make to that truck's handling, so pay attention: Use the MTR wheels you have currently for a car stand, and put LPR's on it. The MTR wheels with the taller sidewall tires allow the tires to flex WAY too much in a turn. It is a night and day difference.

7) One more thing that might help: More droop in the front, and less in the rear.

v1r killer

iTrader: (8)

i just traded my mugen mbx5t pro in cause it had bad turn in issues. i tried tunning it out but was unable to get rid of it and the only way i could do any thing was to adjust my driving style a little. a dab of the breaks entering the corner to get the back end moving ever so slighty followed by power on bring the nose around rather quick. i was running a os 21 v spec with 7/10/3 diff and strr bb with 38 front ang 35 rear.it is an awsome truck that does not break or wear and it still one of my favourite trucks.

the daddy

DIFFS 7 10 1 Move top arms forward shocks all the way out at bottem all the in top i use kyosho bb 600w all round

the daddy

crimefighters lprs