r1nsho

iTrader: (1)

Ok so i just bought my first nova. its a 2007 model year P5X with stnd and turbo head buttons NIB. it has TKO bearings front and rear and modded by JIM HOTTINGER from hot modds!!!! Whats something like this go for? I want to know if i got a good deal or not.

Ok so I want to break this in properly!!! How hard is this motor to tune?

Mr. Twister

iTrader: (4)

You have a fast sweet easy tuning engine there bud, i would guess anywhere over 375 new, anyway breakin is easy on the nova mill's heat it up before each tank 220 230 and heat cycle the motor for 5 to 7 tanks, and put it on the ground and drive it easy, each tank just go a tic leaner on the hsn, the trick is keeping it around 230, keep foil and a sock over the head to maintain temps, around 12 tanks of breakin and put a easy race tune on it, if you use a bench breakin ignore the abouve.

jpz_67

iTrader: (57)

Dont want to start a war but I am a firm believer in this method. Works great for me.
http://www.rbproducts.com/mainEn.php...in%20Procedure

r1nsho

iTrader: (1)

ok so when you say heat it up do you mean with a hear dryer? I only owned throw aways before this 1. they all ran for a long time but they didnt cost much.

ldp787

iTrader: (26)

Heat gun, a hair dryer might do the trick. Just be carefull when using a heat gun not to "HEAT" anything else.

Timmo

iTrader: (16)

You can use this Break-in procedure:

Belongs to Josh Cyrul:

Engine Break-In 101
In the area of engine break-in, there are several different procedures that have been used over the years. Different manufactures, top drivers, and hobby store experts all vary in their opinion as to which is best. Over the past 10+ years of nitro racing I have found this procedure to give me good results in both areas of on-track performance as well as reliability.

Install the new engine into your chassis complete with clutch and ready to go as if you were going to race. Take a screwdriver, glow igniter, starter box, and a full bottle of fuel to a remote area where you won't annoy anyone with a running engine. Start your engine and allow it to warm up with several short ½ throttle “blips”. Once your engine has some temperature in it you can begin the break-in process. Start by opening the top end needle 1 full turn. Open the carburetor to full throttle and hold it there. Open the top end needle until the engine flames out. From here, close the top end needle ¼ turn and restart the engine again running it at full throttle. Run the engine full throttle for 3 tanks and shut the engine down.

Allow the engine to cool for 15-30 minutes. Once the engine has cooled down, run through the same process again for two additional tanks. On the third tank close the top end needle by ¼ of a turn. Instead of holding the engine at full throttle, start using the throttle by doing 2-3 second bursts of full throttle. Once you have done this for ½ of the tank close the top end needle another ¼ of a turn and continue throttling the engine. Continue closing the top end needle ¼ turn per every ½ tank of fuel. Do this until you have run a grand total of 8 tanks through your engine and then shut the engine down.

Allow the engine to cool for 15-30 minutes and then you are ready to hit the race track. Drive two tanks rich around the track slowly closing the top end needle sneaking up on that perfect mixture. At the end of the second tank your engine should be tuned to race speed. This will give you a total of 10 tanks of fuel through your engine before you really start to lean the mixture for ultimate power.

The reasoning behind this break-in procedure is that there is always a large volume of fuel flowing through the engine. Large volume of fuel means plenty of oil and lubrication for the break in process. This also helps flush out any burrs or small pieces of material that may have been left over from the manufacturing of the engine. Also, the engine has a load placed on it by trying to cycle all of the fuel through it – somewhat similar to the load that you will put on it out on the track when you try to power your car around the track. Last, the engine is broke in with rpm – if you break the engine in at idle then you will not be seating the piston, sleeve, and connecting rod at anywhere near the rpm that it will have to be ready for out on the race track.

This is the procedure that I have used with good success over the years of nitro racing. When I've hurried the break-in process I have had some engines last 30 minutes to 4 hours of racing. When I've taken my time and run through this process I've run engines as long as 16 hours of racing!! Yep, same piston and sleeve!!!! Be patient and have fun!!

Good Luck!!
Josh Cyrul
CEFX

Miller_Time

iTrader: (11)

That's the first time I've ever heard a break-in plan that includes constant full throttle on the first tank Is that really correct? Seems a bit dangerous to me.

rcbo

iTrader: (44)

It will bog real bad and not get any rpm.

rearviewmirror

iTrader: (17)

The engine is so rich you need full throttle to keep it running. Several track locals use this procedure.

wallot

very rich HSN limits the engine RPMs and keeps it lubricated well so its safe

BIG RE

iTrader: (33)

that's what I do, about 2 years ago, a guy at RB told me to try that out, and since, I have broken in a nova, an rb, 4 os speeds, and my buddy has done 3-4 engines like that, and they all scream and have had great lifespans.

r1harper

iTrader: (24)

that is how i do it on a break in bench...WOT..