Losi 8ight question
#1
Losi 8ight question
Got a great deal on the 8ight with the new 2.0 out. I'm sure there is an 8 thread around somewhere but I had a quick question for all you guys driving one of these buggys.
Are there any hop-ups I should do immediately right out of the box?
I've heard great things about this kit but would love to address any problem areas during the build. Thanks guys!
Are there any hop-ups I should do immediately right out of the box?
I've heard great things about this kit but would love to address any problem areas during the build. Thanks guys!
#2
well with the eight kit i got one when there $300 i still building it the bushings that go into to the steering rack are fairy tight to get in.when you build the diffs look to see if there is any burrs around them ,i got the burrs off but they still dont feel that smooth i grabs a bit but i think when i run the buggy they will be smooth and make sure all the brake/throttle rods have threads on them cause i had one with no threads and i had to call horizon to get them in the mail. there is a thread for the eight
#4
i would use the 2.0 outer rear hinge pins, you will have to ream out the a-arms
i would get the 2.0 radio tray and linkage
and i would get a truggy spring for your servo saver....
...you dont need any aluminum.....the car works great out of the box......
i would get the 2.0 radio tray and linkage
and i would get a truggy spring for your servo saver....
...you dont need any aluminum.....the car works great out of the box......
#6
#7
I heard the aluminum servo arm is a must as well?
I've got a couple NIB Hitec 5645 servos lying around from a plane build that never happened. These have enough umphhh for an 1/8 scale buggy?
Digital hi-torque metal geared
Speed: 0.18 sec/60° at 6.0V
Torque: 164.2 oz-in at 6V
Thanks for all the info so far.
I've got a couple NIB Hitec 5645 servos lying around from a plane build that never happened. These have enough umphhh for an 1/8 scale buggy?
Digital hi-torque metal geared
Speed: 0.18 sec/60° at 6.0V
Torque: 164.2 oz-in at 6V
Thanks for all the info so far.
#8
I heard the aluminum servo arm is a must as well?
I've got a couple NIB Hitec 5645 servos lying around from a plane build that never happened. These have enough umphhh for an 1/8 scale buggy?
Digital hi-torque metal geared
Speed: 0.18 sec/60° at 6.0V
Torque: 164.2 oz-in at 6V
Thanks for all the info so far.
I've got a couple NIB Hitec 5645 servos lying around from a plane build that never happened. These have enough umphhh for an 1/8 scale buggy?
Digital hi-torque metal geared
Speed: 0.18 sec/60° at 6.0V
Torque: 164.2 oz-in at 6V
Thanks for all the info so far.
CRC "no-pop" steering balls
Alum. Servo horn
Rear Gear box inserts
King heads Radio Tray stiffener
Extended Engine Mount (not needed but makes life a lot easier)
Just my recommendations to the 8ight 1.0. But even if you don't get these parts its still a great and competitive buggy out of the box!
#9
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
I would do like some have already said. 2.0 rear outer hinge pins, or the m2c racing pin set. KHZ radio tray stiffner or a 2.0 radio tray and linkage. Also either the crc non pop steering balls, or the mod I did, which is the same thing the 2.0 runs. You just need a set of losi steering balls and some 5-40x3/4" countersunk screws. You use the inner(non threaded) balls and the screws. this will keep the ball ends on. Never had one pop since doing this mod 2 years ago. Actually I still have the same plastic ball ends on and there is no slop and none have popped off. I would also reccomend losi or GMK supply CVD condoms to keep the center drive pins in. And like you said the losi aluminum steering servo horn is a must(or any other aluminum horn).
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/7756
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/7767
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/30442
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/16263
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/25150
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/13168
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/30460
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/11534
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/30434
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/30452
Lots of different ways to go. hence all the links
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/7756
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/7767
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/30442
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/16263
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/25150
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/13168
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/30460
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/11534
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/30434
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/30452
Lots of different ways to go. hence all the links
#10
Build what you got and run it first. Worry about hop-ups later. You're getting way ahead of yourself.
#11
good point eagle, run what you got and see what you break/wear out/ or if you need to upgrade. A lot of things i have are because i broke them (but others haven't sooomaybe i just suck as a driver LOL) but really build what you got and upgrade as you go along.
#14