carlosm

iTrader: (17)

Congrats Ryan! Looking forward to a bigger and better 2010 season!

daswarre

iTrader: (21)

Will the prototype shock mounts be coming out anytime soon? Just curious. If not I will just modify my towers to fit the Losi mount. Also, any chance tamiya will bag the shock caps seperatly. If not I need to find a company that makes ones that will fit.

TRCRacer24

For the shock mounts I have tested them and they are 100% better in my opinion. So hopefully sooner than later the production ones will be available.
As for they caps. Yes they plan on doing them separately as well. Also hopefully sooner than later!

daswarre

iTrader: (21)

Sorry if I was a bit forward. It just seems like these have been problems for awhile and we are still waiting for results, but mostly becuase I need new shock caps and I dont feel like spending $75 on them. Thanks Ryan, once again sorry if I was to forward. You going to be doing any races in Indiana/Ohio this summer?

barty1989

wondering if someone could explain the effects of adjusting camber link locations on this car.

thanks nathan

Racecrafter

iTrader: (25)

Nathan,

I what respect? Are you looking for more steering? Less? better cornering?

Need more info Sir.

JayL

Ryan: are you running the new KO eurus yet? any feedback? Tamiya should send you even more places, you are an awesome ambassador

TRCRacer24

Thanks Jay!!
I don't have the radio yet. I heard in a couple weeks. I won't be able to use it until January though! I'll be sure to comment on it! I'm excited about it!
Merry Christmas!

Racecrafter

iTrader: (25)

I got to mess around with one this weekend......

It's a Helios case (which is great for those of us who already use one as we will feel right at home) the computer features and scrolling is super fast. No more "speed dialing" the thumb wheel as it has short cuts for ST, TH etc.

The steering feel is improved so there is not much of a pronounced center/ neutral point. The adjustable trigger is WAAAYYYY dialed! And with this radio and optional module you can program your servos, mini-z's and you ESC's right from the radio!! No more taking your lap top to the track.

barty1989

after a good baseline setup to suit a very tight dry and loose track.
just after a basic decription of the effects changeing camber link lengths + roll centre heights. thanks

Leikam

Hey Lutz,

Call me when you get a minute. 678-793-1544

Dave Leikam
PNB

ShagNastyEk9

iTrader: (36)

Ok, So I bought my TRF801X used, cause I got a really good deal on it, and it came with a big load of brand new spares. First time out at the track I noticed the brakes were sticking a little after just tapping the brakes, found that the brake linkage was really stiff to pivot back and forth, causeing the hang up. I didnt have alot of time so I adjusted the servo control rod a bit to make it return to neutral. I didnt think about it before the next big race.

Today I was putting it all back together after a big full teardown, clean, rebuild. I noticed the stiffness and called Alex for tips, he told me to loosen the top plate screws to free it up some, I did that and it did free it up some, but not enough to make me happy. I tore it all down to findout what was causing this.

When the diff mount halves are tightend up on each other, the brake actuation shaft is getting wedged between the top half and the plate. I had several ideas to fix this, and decided on one. First tear it down and take the actuation shaft out, remove the bushing insert from the top plate. Clean the bushing and top plate, and re-install the bushing from the top side of the plate, opposite from how you take it out. I took a little CA glue and put some under the flange of the bushing to help hold it down in place.

Next I installed the shaft and noticed a good bit of up and down play when it is put back together. I had a pack of Losi Shims, Part #LOSA6230 , that had 6 very small shims in it that happened to be the perfect inner and outer diameter for the shaft. I am not sure of the thickness, but it is very very thin, like a clutch shim, which would possibly work as well. I took 3 of these shims and installed them on the top of the shaft so they would be between the shaft flange and the top plate, see pic. Reinstalled everything tight and it was better, but still just a bit too snug for me, so I removed 1 shim and put it backtogether and wow is it free, works smooth now with a tiny amount of up and down play, wont hurt anything. So I did the other shaft, ending with both having 2 shims each and the difference is amazing in how free it is and all the screws are good and tight.

monkeygrip

I have a losi that I want to trade for a tamiya 801x buggy. Does anyone have one in good shape to trade? email [email protected]

monkeygrip

ok, I will put the losi on ebay. where is the best place to buy the 801x buggy online?

Racecrafter

iTrader: (25)

call Jeff at Speedtech R/C

or

http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=588&id=8310