Why do you think the shock ends are stripping? From bouncing around?

Here are a couple photos of my new 8T. I can't wait until Saturday to run this bad boy

http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/p...Picture014.jpg

http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/p...Picture015.jpg

Check out the new grill & Headlights I made up

Sorry - I should have been a little clearer...the tray was in my buggy not the 2.0 truggy. Its not from chassis flex. A buddy just picked up his 2.0 truggy and he called to tell me how much better he thought the truck is than the original! lap times dropped by 2 seconds on the same track....

I had that exact problem with my 8T 1.0 until I replaced it with the alum. upgrade. It would break every other race, but I’m not the best driver either. So I don't think this is a new problem; hence, the alum upgrade. Any part I €have ever broke during a race and replaced with the alum upgrade always pays off. My 2.0 hasn’t even been on the track yet and I have the alum servo saver installed already.

so i'm having mixed answers does the alum servo saver fit the 2.0 truggy?

How do you test the servo saver with it on the truck to see if it is working?

Yes, the 2.0 Aluminum Servo Saver Arm fits the 8ight 2.0 & 8ight-T 2.0 Part number LOSA4443 http://losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA4443

No, the 1.0 Aluminum Servo Saver Arm doesn't fit the 2.0's.

To check your servo saver tension is kind of a feel thing. You want it to give way enough where it takes the stress away from your servo on a hard hit. But you don't want it to be so loose that it makes your car push.

my front left and buddy's front left 2.0B shocks had the shock ends over tightened and the plastic was all melted into the threads of the shock shaft...it was only front left tho. :nod:..are the 2.0T's stripped or did they just pull out ?

This is the one you want, I just installed it today.


http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/30453

can i say i told ya so. :p




ahh just razzin ya buddy. :lol:

looks great Gary!!! Now I see whats holding up my stickers:lol:

Here Me GO!!!!

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3345/...c7046d35_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3345/...c7046d35_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3505/...acf3a166_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3336/...56065e7a_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3319/...6cfe397a_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3389/...8eb91706_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3421/...a510c948_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3372/...2f589b70_b.jpg

FYI- Proline LPR wheels work much better as the webbing is recessed a bit from the wheel hub. And the Proline wheels have a rolled inside edge to allow clearance between the wheel and the tie rod. They still rub a tiny bit, but not as bad as the stock wheels. You can't tell me not one person noticed that while testing.


The alum. hubs are about .004 bigger than the cvd. Not much for some people, but a county mile to others. This will cause excessive slop in the camber department. Wrap some tin foil or shim stock around the cvd and slide the alum. hub over it. Presto! No slop. The GS CL1 I had was the same way.



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As for the steering arm breaking, is it a cold weather issue ( sub 40f), bad driving , or both? Again, another issue that had to have been witnessed while testing.

Personally, I think a "race roller" should be just that, race ready out of the box. With no aftermarket accessories needed to make the vehicle race ready, other than the obvious engine and electronics. Is there a lemon law for toy cars?


I will weigh mine today at work. Unpainted body, no fuel, with stock tires/wheels.

i had to laugh today at the track.
One of the local pros rocked up on the second day of our state titles having skipped the practice sessions yesterday with his brand new truck. I went up and said that me and the other driver running the car had changed the setup a bit and asked him if he had checked his shock ball ends. "Nar she'll be fine mate. they wont come off he replied". he didnt make it around for one lap before he had a shock ball end pop off. i almost fell off the hill laughing.

Its always funny when a pro thinks he knows better and gets proven wrong :lol:
he then had to come and get some replacements off me

how have you guys gone with the setups
im running on a super blown out track at the moment and i have made a few changes
Front ride height 36mm, rear ride height 42mm
rear shock oil 32.5wt
rear hub spaced all the way forward
front camber 3degrees
rear camber 2degrees
rear diff oil 3000wt

this is what me and another driver have come to and at the moment the car is driving on rails
we both found that the car tends to squat alot along the straight and slaps the tail on the ruts. so i have lowered the front ride height and now it sits alot flatter and floats across the top. we also both found the the car was very tail happy and the 3k has calmed it down
i didnt want to go changing springs as the car jumps higher, flatter and longer than any other car at the track, and can over jump by 5m land flat on a corner and still make the corner on a nickle:sweat:

as far as im concerned so far this car is so far improved over the 8T1 that i still can't wipe the smile off my face

What lipo's fit the losi radio box other than the Losi lipo? Will a battary with the following deminsions fit: 30Wx48Lx32T.

The losi 2000 battery is: 40Wx52Lx20T.

With the stock Losi battery is there enough room in the box for a batter 4mm longer and 12mm taller?

NO.....i use the losi pack...Protec pack...and a couple cheepo Lama 900mah heli packs for quali's.

ill say it again....the saver broke RIGHT in front of me.....from Brushing the pipe while tuning in the steering servo....mine worked for bit...then i decided after buddy's broke...maby i should rag on mine and see if it would break....Sure enough.....1 sissy foot crash later...No steering....the building we were racing in was 50-55 degrees...nothing out of the ordinary.

I know this is an 8T 2.0 forum but I think the nitro forum is going electric. Is that possible?? Ohh Well.

Nice truck Gary, looks real good. Con't wait to check it out this weekend. I might just have to race truggy now.

Scott Rapoport's 8ight-T 2.0
 

Here's my new 8ight-T 2.0 body. Haven't got the truck ready to go yet, but at least the body is done.

http://i409.photobucket.com/albums/p...ight-T20v1.jpg

http://i409.photobucket.com/albums/p...ight-T20v3.jpg

http://i409.photobucket.com/albums/p...ight-T20v4.jpg

http://i409.photobucket.com/albums/p...ight-T20v5.jpg

http://i409.photobucket.com/albums/p...ight-T20v1.jpg

http://i409.photobucket.com/albums/p...ight-T20v5.jpg

i see evryone likes the blue with the green. all of the bodies look awsome.

Can we all just get along???? :D

We all have something in common on this forum. Losi 8ight-T 2.0. it will be very difficult creating a nice thread like this in some other forum. I think both electric and Nitro can share this same forum. No big deal. Most of the discussion will be about the setup of the car instead of what's powering it.

Hey, i am also seeing issues with my wheels hitting the A-Arm. Does anyone have the fix for this? I was thinking of just dremiling the wheels to not to rub. what do you guys think?

also, it would be great to get a list of "bullet proofs" you guys are doing to bullet proof this tRuGgY!!!

Fedex just came by with mine #5521, left front zip tie was broken and the seals on the box had been cut.

Nice paint job LVBaja!! How'd you get those window outlines to look so good? What's your trick?

+1 or start a new forum nitro to electric butcher shop:nod:

Here ya go.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...osi/SideL1.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...osi/SideR1.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2.../Losi/Top1.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...osi/Front1.jpg

Just finished going over the new truck. Both shock shafts on the left side had alot of plastic melted to them and the shock ends were bad. Had some loose screws too. Overall in pretty good shape.
I did some parts comparing with the 1.0. Are the front center drive shafts the same? Looks like it to me.

Thanks. No trick to it, just liquid mask and a steady hand with the X-acto blade, that's all.

Damaged Parts
 

The rear shock boots and rear shock ends arrived from Horizon today. I just talked to them on Wed. and I'm in CA. Now that’s what call service.

paint work looks good guys but that body has to go.

Just got home from picking up my 8T 2.0's!!:nod::D

Face it....its the new wave of aerodynamic bodies....you need air over the wing....the roof line's gonna drop......the new HB is doin the same.....i would'nt be surprised to see the new MBX6T with a low lying shell as well....i dont think there's any way around it. :nod:

so ill safely assume these will be present on the 28th-2nd in red deer ?

3 out of 4 of my shock bottoms were stripped out, it seems like they might have used electric or neumatic tools to thread the shock shafts into the bottom, plastic is all melted into the threads

Actually no:( I was so dissappointed with last years race and how it was run I decided to go to a real race this year. So I'm flying out to the Nitro Challenge on Feb.17th.

I truly hope things work out better this year for the Winter Nats. But for what I spent on entry fees last year, practice fees, table rental fees. And then they wanted to charge me $60 to use power:rolleyes: That doesn't sit well with me. So for very little extra money I'm going to Arizona this year, plus its nice and warm there:D

the body does look alot better in person, i wasnt feeling it at all when i first saw the pics of it

X2....they must be using something automatic...as there's No way to melt the plastic in the thread's unless its spinning crazy fast.




Urg....sorry to hear that....well good luck out there...maby next year you'll come and join us again. :nod:

Maybe, I hear Delmo is building the track this year, if thats the case the track should at least be fun to drive on. Last years track was horrible. If I hear this year was an improvement I may come back next year?

Good luck!

so today since i was bored and im starting to really like the way the 8t 2.0 looks im wondering has any one or is it possible to upgrade a 1.0 to a 2.0?
would it be cheaper just to buy a roller? im thinking these are the only pats that really mattter to me since i run brushless can you guys give me advice?

EXTENDED CHASSIS WITH TUNED FLEX TECHNOLOGY 2.0 = this i need

PRECISION STEERING GEOMETRY AND SERVO SAVER= is this a real big difference then over the 1.0's

EXTENDED-LENGTH FRONT AND REAR ARMS = i think i can get away with the 1.0 arms

UPDATED SUSPENSION GEOMETRY WITH LONGER REAR SHOCKS = this i think all i need is the rear shock towers and will they fit the 1.0 diff case? or what ever it attaches too.

HEAVY-DUTY DOGBONES AND OUTDRIVES = im assuming i will need to just replace the center to rear dogbones bones im hoping the front dogbones are the same size as the 1.0

HEAVY-DUTY FRONT AND REAR BRAKE DISKS = dont need becuase i run brushless w/out mech brakes

LIGHTENED SHOCK TOWERS = not changing seeing thats the shock towers i have now are pretty light and i think this only applies to front shock tower

SURE-CLOSE™ FUEL TANK CLOSURE WITH EFRA APPROVED FUEL LINE KIT
INCLUDED = something else i dont need

50T CENTER SPUR GEAR = dont need

REVISED RADIO TRAY DESIGN dont need only run one servo for steering

HEAVY DUTY REAR OUTER 3.5MM HINGE PINS hing pins dont change becuase im not planning on changinge the a-arms yet

REINFORCED REAR BEARING INSERT SYSTEM same thing as above

LASER ETCHED ENGINE MOUNTING GUIDES = dont need this either

CENTER DRIVESHAFT GREASE BOOTS = not sure if i need but i dont think so


so basicly im thinking all i need to do is replace
chassis $100
shock towers $30
center to rear dog bones $25
and side gaurds for chassis $14
2.0 body $30

so under 200 and i have my self a 2.0 right ? any thoughts or advice can anyone help out if im missing anything

Just buy the 2.0. There is alot more to it than the things you discussed. there is a big difference between the 1.0 and the 2.0. If you aren't going to go to the new longer arms and updated suspension all you are doing is extending your 1.0. It will NOT be a 2.0. You might have been able to get away with that on the buggy, but the truggy has been changed way too much.