3LikesMugen MBX6T
10-31-2011, 08:06 AM
#6991
that's the beauty of a the serpent. If you commit to a jump, even if you don't make it, nothing breaks. My engine is still breaking in, so am i short coming jumps all the time since i don't have that power to clear them. I front faced around 10 jumps the other day (like i said, i was looking for the breaking point), and nothing broke on the serpent. It's like the energizer bunny. it keeps going and going and going and going!
I have said it before and I will say it again, I have never broken an arm on my 6T that should not have broken. This truggy is a thoroughbred racer, not a basher.
If you know that you are not gonna have a chance at making a jump because you are out of shape, don't pin it and them slam into the face of the jump at a horrible angle, yes you will and should break an arm. Well unless you want a flexi flyer like a Z-Car truggy which almost never breaks arms but bends cvds because the arms are ultra flexible.
Personally I would MUCH rather have precision control and non flexi-flyer arms, and simply drive smart.
Also think about this: people say "I barely hit something and it broke"
Well most of the time they have forgotten the 10 wrecks they had before that one, didn't inspect the arms, and they were probably already cracked.
I have seen too many MBX6Ts wreck and not break arms to consider them flawed or weak in design, especially the last revision of arms. One race day I saw a guy wreck horrifically maybe 30 times and never broke anything.
And then I tried to make a triple that I knew better than trying, held it wide open, and landed as wrong as possible and broke an arm
But I SHOULD have broken it
If you know that you are not gonna have a chance at making a jump because you are out of shape, don't pin it and them slam into the face of the jump at a horrible angle, yes you will and should break an arm. Well unless you want a flexi flyer like a Z-Car truggy which almost never breaks arms but bends cvds because the arms are ultra flexible.
Personally I would MUCH rather have precision control and non flexi-flyer arms, and simply drive smart.
Also think about this: people say "I barely hit something and it broke"
Well most of the time they have forgotten the 10 wrecks they had before that one, didn't inspect the arms, and they were probably already cracked.
I have seen too many MBX6Ts wreck and not break arms to consider them flawed or weak in design, especially the last revision of arms. One race day I saw a guy wreck horrifically maybe 30 times and never broke anything.
And then I tried to make a triple that I knew better than trying, held it wide open, and landed as wrong as possible and broke an arm
But I SHOULD have broken it
10-31-2011, 11:03 AM
#6992
Dunno if this is old news, but just sprung up on my facebook page:
MBX6T Eco:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...7464053&type=1
also
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Conversion-Kit
MBX6T Eco:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...7464053&type=1
also
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Conversion-Kit
Last edited by tobamiester; 10-31-2011 at 12:34 PM.
10-31-2011, 11:38 AM
#6993
Its funny how companies know there is a problem with the product and wont admit it or try to fix it
Xray diff problems= Xray fixed
Kyosho diff problems = kyosho fixed
Serpent servo issues= serpent fixed
Tamiya arm problem= Tamiya fixed
Mugen arm problem= mugen not fixed
10-31-2011, 11:39 AM
#6994
I know you guys in the US have biiiigggggg jumps and here in the UK there big but not big as yours . I raced the 6T for 3 years,in fact I started racing with it. So you can imagine the crashes I had, and still do 
, but it that time I broke 1 front lower arm, that was last year in the winter months and I hit a fence 
, i never had a DNF do to the truggy breaking front arms. I don't understand why you have problems.
I now race a serpent, not because of issues with the 6T, just because I wanted to try it, I still have the 6T
.
Just for the record, the serpent is good but not with out fault.
Parts missing from the kit, I had to use Mugen pins in the diff as they were missing from the kit.
The kit body is Cr&p
"C" clips that hold the fuel pick up in place broken in the tank, the car hadn't even run.
Drive shaft pins on the centre drive shafts need replacing at the diff end after 4 races.
Chassis flexed coming of a big jump, bent the rear shaft which hit the engine case on my 1 gallon old Ninja and damaged it, also hit the radio tray and took a chunk out of it.
Screws that hold the radio tray from under Neath are too short and pull out.
Ohh and the stupid little bearings with the flanges on, what's that all about, they don't last at all.....
All in all we put up with the issue because we like our TOY CARS......
. I raced the 6T for 3 years,in fact I started racing with it. So you can imagine the crashes I had, and still do , but it that time I broke 1 front lower arm, that was last year in the winter months and I hit a fence , i never had a DNF do to the truggy breaking front arms. I don't understand why you have problems.I now race a serpent, not because of issues with the 6T, just because I wanted to try it, I still have the 6T
.Just for the record, the serpent is good but not with out fault.
Parts missing from the kit, I had to use Mugen pins in the diff as they were missing from the kit.
The kit body is Cr&p
"C" clips that hold the fuel pick up in place broken in the tank, the car hadn't even run.
Drive shaft pins on the centre drive shafts need replacing at the diff end after 4 races.
Chassis flexed coming of a big jump, bent the rear shaft which hit the engine case on my 1 gallon old Ninja and damaged it, also hit the radio tray and took a chunk out of it.
Screws that hold the radio tray from under Neath are too short and pull out.
Ohh and the stupid little bearings with the flanges on, what's that all about, they don't last at all.....
All in all we put up with the issue because we like our TOY CARS......
10-31-2011, 12:02 PM
#6995
every buggy/truggy out there has an issue, you can say what you want but they all have issues STILL. i havent broken 1 arm front or rear on truggy. but have broken a few rear axles though. on buggy ive broken 2 front and 1 rear (rear was my fault completely, front questionable). ive tried other brands, they all drove fine and all but each had a issue to worry about. someone said it best "you choose to drive mugen, so why complain". i bought a losi not long ago, you are not going to break an arm on it, the arms are like rubber. i raced it once TQ'd every round in pro truggy and won the main by over a lap and set the fastest lap ive pulled with truggy but sold it 2 weeks later. loved the losi but right now sticking with mugen, overall im a little faster (avg lap).
all im trying to say is every brand has an issue, everyone has their favorite, run what you feel you can finish the race with and what you're most comfortable with. every truggy/buggy is capable of winning, its all about how comfortable you are driving it and driver preference.
and BTW, boiling the arms help ALOT! i boil mine for 15-20min. my current truggy, i didnt boil arms and havent broke any on it also.
all im trying to say is every brand has an issue, everyone has their favorite, run what you feel you can finish the race with and what you're most comfortable with. every truggy/buggy is capable of winning, its all about how comfortable you are driving it and driver preference.
and BTW, boiling the arms help ALOT! i boil mine for 15-20min. my current truggy, i didnt boil arms and havent broke any on it also.
10-31-2011, 03:37 PM
#6996
I'm with Johnathan on this one as well, I've never broken an arm because I don't try to keep the throttle pinned in bad situations that I've gotten into. Think about this, if the arms were so rigid and tough that they never broke then what is the next thing in line that could break? Your diff housings! Now what would be faster to change out on race day, a broken arm or a diff housing.
10-31-2011, 06:41 PM
#6997
Maybe it's a cold weather thing..because I have seen some brutal crashes and the truck keeps going..not saying it doesn't break because it will at some point no matter what brand...but I think you guys are making it like the mugen is the only truck in the world that breaks a-arms at the track
10-31-2011, 06:41 PM
#6998
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)
Hilarious!!!
You guys are funny! My kid is 11 years old running pro class any race we go to. He has only raced for 2 years and WRECKS. He has only broke 1 front arm on his own. 2 from turn marshalls throwing a vehicle in front of him.
If you don't like the truck then run something else. No one put a gun to your head and made you run the truck!!
Just don't get mad at him when he laps your non-breaking truggy!!!
He has had most of his best A-main finishes due to other brands not being able to finish without breaking!!
Just my $.02!!
If you don't like the truck then run something else. No one put a gun to your head and made you run the truck!!
Just don't get mad at him when he laps your non-breaking truggy!!!
He has had most of his best A-main finishes due to other brands not being able to finish without breaking!! Just my $.02!!
11-05-2011, 03:06 PM
#6999
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
I would think boiling the would make them brittle. I have heard to put them straight into ice cold water after boiling them. Any thoughts on this? Would that cool it to fast and cause it to crack? Didn't know if anyone has tried this method. How are your arms you boiled holding up? Have you taken any big tumbles with them that you thought should have broke them?
Battery forward?
11-05-2011, 09:23 PM
#7003
6t arms
Ive had my 6t for two seasons now and i have broke arms but they have all been due to hard drivin and pushin truck too much for too long any of these trucks will break at some point
11-06-2011, 02:57 AM
#7004
When i ran Mugen i was in denial too. i would break arms on perfect landing. I don't drive crazy, very conservative. Other better drivers then me would break to on simple landings.
I'm still a Mugen fan. Best quality truck with just one major front arm flaw.
I'm still a Mugen fan. Best quality truck with just one major front arm flaw.