My first time out on the track with the SC8 I was in the second qualifier and the wheel comes flying off. The whole center of the wheel was broken out and ended the day.
Team Associated did replace it but this is what they said.

"We found this to be from crash damage and normally it would not be replaced. We our sending a replacement wheel.
They will not be replaced in the future, based on crash damage."

Like everyone else I flip and rolled it a few times but nothing extreme not like I was trying to clear the triple. Even if I was there should still be no issue.
After inspecting the wheel you can tell that the plastic is very thin, much thinner than that of a Pro-Line or other race wheel.
I personally don't think the wheels can support the weight of the truck.
With that being said I like this truck and really hope this class takes off and because no one else has posted this issue maybe it was just a bad set of wheels.

Attachment 440331 Attachment 440332

just loosen the set screw on the front pipe wire and push the pipe up alittle

or a long skinny screw driver and pull the plastic side piece down. have done it both ways, the first is the better.

Thanks GNS - worked like a charm. Although I'm still having troubles starting it. I'm taking it to the hobby shop tomorrow.

I think ya must have gotten a bad one because I have ran mine with no problems :)

Are there any pull starts that will work on the SC8 engine? I've pretty much stripped my pro-start shaft. Hopefully it's not stripped at the entry to the engine too. I'm trying to get in touch with Associated, but in the mean time I might get a start box or pull start, if there is a compatible one. Their Pro-Start system is ridiculous.

can anyone help!!! i need a new body for my sc8 (clear one) and i cant find any online.just wondering if anyone knows were this one i can get
thanks

Sorry about your luck but I think you just either got a possible bum wheel, or you hit it just right to break it. I've trashed on my truck pretty hard, chucked it over a huge quad several times, seen guys break everything on the front of the truck, and yet have I seen a wheel break. A customer drove his into a curb hard enough to bend the chassis, and the wheels survived....good on AE that they replaced it.

The pull start for the Pro28, or 4.6 from associated will work just fine....I don't have the part # handy but if you cannot located it on your own I can find it for you. It's the same pull start for the MGT, it comes in a entire kit for like $50...

If the shaft stripped the engine is probably fine, the shaft is softer than the input nut on the engine.

Not to sound like an AE fan boy or something but I like the Prostart....enough that I don't bother bringing my starter box with me, it's lighter and easier to use...

I'm a noob on nitro engines. I know that a nitro engine's life is very short. Dependent how you abuse it. Lets say, after 8gal. If your engine has no compression anymore and fails many times. Can you then just replace these =>

http://aedownloads.com/downloads/item_photos/25310.jpg

After you have installed these, is your engine then as good as new and have to be breaked in again? Or do you have to replace the whole (expensive)engine? I can't also find these parts for the .28engine!

When the engine looses compression, you can replace the piston & sleeve (what's in the photo). You have to break it in again. It's a good idea to replace the connecting rod as well.

You can also have the sleeve "re-pinched". This is the process of putting the sleeve into a steel clamping ring and essentially squishing the sleeve to get it down to a smaller diameter to get the compression back. Guys will take this route sometimes before buying a new P/S because it usually costs less than half what it does for a new P/S. But, re-pinching the sleeve is only a temporary solution allowing you to get maybe 2-3 more gallons through it before it looses compression again.

Solid Back Plate
 

Is there a back plate that will fit on the stock motor? If so part# and location would be a plus. Tired of trying to look through the rear bumper to start it up. Been using the bump box instead.
Thanks

Thanks for the info. I got a hold of AE customer service today and they claim that the early batch of starter shafts were too soft on the end. They are sending me a new one, free of charge.
Are you sure about the pull start? I asked the cust service guy about that also and he said he wasn't aware of any pull starts that would work.

I also called AE today and talked to "Billy." He stated that the stock motor was built for an RTR and that there really is no parts for it. Now if I am correct this is a thunder tiger motor. I got ahold of them, in which I was directed to ACE Hobbies. Talked to a gentlemen there who in turn told me to contact Thunder tiger. See what is going on here......Well after a few emails back and forth with thunder, I called AE again and was assured there was nothing for the stock motor.

Though I could have sworn I saw a post about someone utilizing a back plate from another vehicle. If they would only post up again.

I will look up the part number tomorrow at work and post it. I had ordered a guy a pull start for his Pro28, we ordered one for a "AE Pro 4.6" and it comes with a bunch of parts that make it work. I still have the part numbers on the work computer.

As for a blank backplate, I don't know of one....but I am sure the pull start is possible.

Part # for you guys wanting a pull start...

AE Pull Start System, 4.6

ASC25366

Here is a link to it on horizonhobby.com

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=ASC25366

Thanks Wes. If I can't get my starter box and/or the new starter shaft to work then I'll look into this pull start.