Anyone get 10 minutes on a .28?
10-30-2008, 08:52 PM
#17
What kind of run times can you expect from a typical .28 - all things being equal? I am thinking about buying a .28 for the heck of it and need it to go 7.5 min at least.
Thanks in advance guys
Thanks in advance guys
10-31-2008, 04:09 AM
#18
Tech Rookie
I would say it could be done. I have seen modded v-specs run 13+ mins in truggies but I dont think you will get ten min with the GRP. I know people that are having trouble getting 8 mins out of the .21s.. I dont know if it is the motor or the drivers, maybe some people that run GRPs can chime in. I am also looking at the GRP .28 but I am not trying to get 10mins out of a tank. JMO
10-31-2008, 04:19 AM
#19
My turbo cranked Picco P3-28's are getting close to 12 minutes in a truggy. We found out the hard way at Tillsonburg earlier this year. It was running the stock 9mm insert. My OS .28 XZ are getting 10 plus and my N528 was getting close to that as well so it is very possible to get run times on them, you just have to know how to extract it.
10-31-2008, 05:31 AM
#20
my car went thru tech this year at a pro series race and got the ok, my teammate was right behind me didnt pass with the same car,tank,fuel line,length. even if his car would of passed no way his style would get 10min.lol
10-31-2008, 05:34 AM
#21
10-31-2008, 05:40 AM
#23
Tech Master
iTrader: (27)
In my opinion it is hard to just say that a certain engine will give you a certain runtime. As indicated by some people already, the driving style has a lot to do with it. But also the track itself has a lot to do with it! A couple of weeks ago I ran 13 minutes on a tank with my RC8T with V-Spec on an indoor track. The next day I was outdoors and with the exact same setup I got 8 minutes on an outdoor track....
10-31-2008, 05:49 AM
#24
I know this is very subjective but I am looking for real world experiences.
I am picking up a ZO1-T and thinking of getting a GRP .28 tuned. I know I could use the .21 but I've always wanted a .28. I plan to run it with a 6-7 mm spacer and a 053 pipe and being gentle on the throttle. My track will be doing 10 minute mains, if we don't have mandatory pit stops I'd like to play the fuel mileage game. In which case I would get the .21.
I am picking up a ZO1-T and thinking of getting a GRP .28 tuned. I know I could use the .21 but I've always wanted a .28. I plan to run it with a 6-7 mm spacer and a 053 pipe and being gentle on the throttle. My track will be doing 10 minute mains, if we don't have mandatory pit stops I'd like to play the fuel mileage game. In which case I would get the .21.
a 10 min. main doesnt really mean you are going to run for EXACTLY 10min.
does your clubs race clock start when you take off or when you cross the scoring line? and at the end of the race say you cross the line at 9.50 and you still need to finish the last lap = 10.30 race.
i understand your thought here but really a pit stop is about the same as 1 crash. get the motor and pipe you really want and pit stops are good practice so when you go to other tracks,bigger races you willbe ready. you can make a little time in the pits or loose alot!
10-31-2008, 07:04 AM
#25
your lap times willbe better over a ten min. main with a 21. tried to run one early this season. not many experts run a 28, mostly sportsman.
a 10 min. main doesnt really mean you are going to run for EXACTLY 10min.
does your clubs race clock start when you take off or when you cross the scoring line? and at the end of the race say you cross the line at 9.50 and you still need to finish the last lap = 10.30 race.
i understand your thought here but really a pit stop is about the same as 1 crash. get the motor and pipe you really want and pit stops are good practice so when you go to other tracks,bigger races you willbe ready. you can make a little time in the pits or loose alot!
a 10 min. main doesnt really mean you are going to run for EXACTLY 10min.
does your clubs race clock start when you take off or when you cross the scoring line? and at the end of the race say you cross the line at 9.50 and you still need to finish the last lap = 10.30 race.
i understand your thought here but really a pit stop is about the same as 1 crash. get the motor and pipe you really want and pit stops are good practice so when you go to other tracks,bigger races you willbe ready. you can make a little time in the pits or loose alot!
10-31-2008, 07:46 AM
#26
i think i will just stick with the .21
10-31-2008, 08:16 AM
#27
Everyone I see racing in Florida, and we have some fairly wide open tracks, and everyone runs a .25 at the most. Anyone that is running pro truggy is running .21's that are modded, and they have no problem with stuff. I have seen guys Quad a 25ft section in a truggy with a .21 and that section has a 10ft runway from a corner. So I think if you get the right .21 you would have no problem.
My suggestion would be a Pro Twister Mods Go Tech .21 7p race. It will be about $269-$289, won't kill your pockets, even for a modded motor people are still getting 8+ gallons out of them, and it has just as much power as the $350-^ motors have.
Just my .02cents
My suggestion would be a Pro Twister Mods Go Tech .21 7p race. It will be about $269-$289, won't kill your pockets, even for a modded motor people are still getting 8+ gallons out of them, and it has just as much power as the $350-^ motors have.
Just my .02cents
10-31-2008, 10:24 AM
#28
+1 and find a pipe,motor,clutch setup you like and dont be going back and forth on restictors. the way the power and diffs work together you would be better off running the same setup and then just worry about suspension and tires.
10-31-2008, 10:43 AM
#29
my opinion is a modified JPX 21 .... extremely powerful, as much power as many 28's, but with runtime of a .21........ I own every worthwhile .21 and nothing carries the snap crackle and pop the modded JPX does......
10-31-2008, 11:21 AM
#30
Maximo have you tried the jx-21? If so what are your thoughts?
