Xray 808, Losi 8ight 2.0, or Mugen MBX6?
#31
Don't they have an updated bearing that is supposed to address that? Part# 941320
#32
Tech Lord
iTrader: (52)
inspect them regularly. I have had no issues with my bearings, as I followed the directions, and then replaced them as needed. Usually about every gallon of fuel, except the clutch bearings which need to be changed more often.
They do not need to be repacked with grease after every race!
#33
Tech Addict
As for the Xray 808 bearing re-packing...
Its not needed after every race! Seriously, I have 2 gallons on the set in my car right now. I'm changing them for a big race next week, as my normal service interval is about every 2-3 gallons, if the track is very brutal 1-2 gallons. Avid bearings do work well also.
#34
I used Avids but let me tell you. ReadyRollers are WAY better. Same price to $1 each. Super nice guy to. I needed some bearings for a weekend race and he upgraded to overnite at his own expense. That's friggin service! Trust me you will not be disappointed.
#36
Tech Master
http://www.readyrollers.com/main.sc
Havent tried them yet still got lots of avids left & BTW the only bearing I'm HAVING to replace are the outer wheel bearings & thats at 1.5-2 gal. All the others I either clean & grease as regular maint just like I did on all my other brand cars or replace with $1 avids if I'm too lazy at the time to clean. I had just seen the recomendation on the x-ray site to put 1/2 & 1/2 bearings on the pinion the night after I did that very thing & so far so good. It felt less like an experiment when someone who knew what they were doing says try it.
Havent tried them yet still got lots of avids left & BTW the only bearing I'm HAVING to replace are the outer wheel bearings & thats at 1.5-2 gal. All the others I either clean & grease as regular maint just like I did on all my other brand cars or replace with $1 avids if I'm too lazy at the time to clean. I had just seen the recomendation on the x-ray site to put 1/2 & 1/2 bearings on the pinion the night after I did that very thing & so far so good. It felt less like an experiment when someone who knew what they were doing says try it.
#39
These are the best three cars out there.
The Xray is the best and lightest of the three. It's a Mugen with a Losi type front suspension, cutting edge tech light weight drivetrain, and some super high quality parts.
As long as your stick to the stock diffs and gears the pinion bearings seem to hold up ok and require about the same maintenance as any other car. Pull them and regrease/replace every 2-3 race days. If you want to try 41t gears or the active diff, then those pinions need to examined after every race until you get your shimming perfect. The optional 41t overdrive gear really puts alot of strain on the front of the car and meshes poorly reguardless of proper shimming.
The Xray needs some tuning if you want super aggressive steering. Usually shock pistons, stiffer rear springs, and thinner diff fluids. The out of box setup is stable, boring, and European feeling.
The Mugen is the safest bet. It's front end can do some goofy things but if you replace the pin clips with plastic shim washers some of that goes away.
The Losi is just as fast, but the metal and plastic wear quicker, lame aluminum shock towers (should be CF at its price range), eats servos still, not enough wheel base adjustment. Same awesome shocks the others have.
The Xray is the best and lightest of the three. It's a Mugen with a Losi type front suspension, cutting edge tech light weight drivetrain, and some super high quality parts.
As long as your stick to the stock diffs and gears the pinion bearings seem to hold up ok and require about the same maintenance as any other car. Pull them and regrease/replace every 2-3 race days. If you want to try 41t gears or the active diff, then those pinions need to examined after every race until you get your shimming perfect. The optional 41t overdrive gear really puts alot of strain on the front of the car and meshes poorly reguardless of proper shimming.
The Xray needs some tuning if you want super aggressive steering. Usually shock pistons, stiffer rear springs, and thinner diff fluids. The out of box setup is stable, boring, and European feeling.
The Mugen is the safest bet. It's front end can do some goofy things but if you replace the pin clips with plastic shim washers some of that goes away.
The Losi is just as fast, but the metal and plastic wear quicker, lame aluminum shock towers (should be CF at its price range), eats servos still, not enough wheel base adjustment. Same awesome shocks the others have.
#40
Tech Regular
iTrader: (27)
These are the best three cars out there.
The Xray is the best and lightest of the three. It's a Mugen with a Losi type front suspension, cutting edge tech light weight drivetrain, and some super high quality parts.
As long as your stick to the stock diffs and gears the pinion bearings seem to hold up ok and require about the same maintenance as any other car. Pull them and regrease/replace every 2-3 race days. If you want to try 41t gears or the active diff, then those pinions need to examined after every race until you get your shimming perfect. The optional 41t overdrive gear really puts alot of strain on the front of the car and meshes poorly reguardless of proper shimming.
The Xray needs some tuning if you want super aggressive steering. Usually shock pistons, stiffer rear springs, and thinner diff fluids. The out of box setup is stable, boring, and European feeling.
The Mugen is the safest bet. It's front end can do some goofy things but if you replace the pin clips with plastic shim washers some of that goes away.
The Losi is just as fast, but the metal and plastic wear quicker, lame aluminum shock towers (should be CF at its price range), eats servos still, not enough wheel base adjustment. Same awesome shocks the others have.
The Xray is the best and lightest of the three. It's a Mugen with a Losi type front suspension, cutting edge tech light weight drivetrain, and some super high quality parts.
As long as your stick to the stock diffs and gears the pinion bearings seem to hold up ok and require about the same maintenance as any other car. Pull them and regrease/replace every 2-3 race days. If you want to try 41t gears or the active diff, then those pinions need to examined after every race until you get your shimming perfect. The optional 41t overdrive gear really puts alot of strain on the front of the car and meshes poorly reguardless of proper shimming.
The Xray needs some tuning if you want super aggressive steering. Usually shock pistons, stiffer rear springs, and thinner diff fluids. The out of box setup is stable, boring, and European feeling.
The Mugen is the safest bet. It's front end can do some goofy things but if you replace the pin clips with plastic shim washers some of that goes away.
The Losi is just as fast, but the metal and plastic wear quicker, lame aluminum shock towers (should be CF at its price range), eats servos still, not enough wheel base adjustment. Same awesome shocks the others have.
I drove a Mugen and it turns much better than my Losi I just hear complaints/concerns about the pillow ball front end. What problems are you guy's running in to??
I am still new to 1/8 and have not had a chance to see an X-Ray up close but everything I have heard has been fairly positive! Thanks!
#41
Thank you for the detailed answer/response!! I have been running Losi but as you said...plastic is a little soft and I have been wanting to try a car/truck with some better build quality and a little tighter.
I drove a Mugen and it turns much better than my Losi I just hear complaints/concerns about the pillow ball front end. What problems are you guy's running in to??
I am still new to 1/8 and have not had a chance to see an X-Ray up close but everything I have heard has been fairly positive! Thanks!
I drove a Mugen and it turns much better than my Losi I just hear complaints/concerns about the pillow ball front end. What problems are you guy's running in to??
I am still new to 1/8 and have not had a chance to see an X-Ray up close but everything I have heard has been fairly positive! Thanks!
Xray propaganda is a good read:
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...0&catName=XRAY XB808 - 2010 Specs
#42
Beware! Once you tasted X, you will be forever wanting it! X is addictive!
#43
+1
#44
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (53)
I have had all of the cars Losi 8 and the Losi 8 2.0 and the Xray 808 and the 09 and now the Mugen MBX6 and i am MUCH faster with the Mugen i liked how the Xray drove just did not like all the problems i seen with the Diff Bearings with the Xray.
I all so like the Losi cars it just cost so much money to keep the cars in Tip Top Shape new A arms after about 2 gallons and all new Rebuild in 5
gallons the Losi cars cost a Lot of money.
I have not had the Mugen car that long just about a little over a Gallon of fuel but so far it has No wear and looks like a new car and like i said my Times have gotten much faster with the Mugen it like's to be driven Hard and Pushed and that makes me Faster.
I all so like the Losi cars it just cost so much money to keep the cars in Tip Top Shape new A arms after about 2 gallons and all new Rebuild in 5
gallons the Losi cars cost a Lot of money.
I have not had the Mugen car that long just about a little over a Gallon of fuel but so far it has No wear and looks like a new car and like i said my Times have gotten much faster with the Mugen it like's to be driven Hard and Pushed and that makes me Faster.
Last edited by thenova70ss; 07-11-2010 at 10:17 AM.
#45
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
I just bought an 8ight 2.0 buggy last week and have been checking it over throughly this week and obtaining the parts i need to complete it. After spending several hours checking things out i have to admit it is a really nice buggy. Of course i can't compare it to other buggies but judging by the research i did before taking the plunge and since taking delivery of mine i'd have to say the 8ight 2.0 is rock solid. You see alot of people here racing them successfully.
You do hear a few horror stories but its that way with any rc and is most likely due to driver/setup error. But based on the availibility of parts i'd have to say the 8 2.0 is the best bang for the buck. The parts are cheap and plentiful, expecially on ebay. I see about half of the parts available for the mbx6 vs the 8 2.0.
If i had it to do all over again i would stick with the 8 2.0, without a doubt. It really boiled down to finding the best deal on a 8 2.0 or a mbx6 and i ended up saving alot of money buying the 8 2.0.
I do hope to get into some local racing her shortly, but of course i need some practice time, and with practice comes broken parts. All the lhs around here carry 8 2.0 parts, so in a pinch i'm covered.
For mbx6 parts theres only 2 hobbyshops around here and both are 45-50 minutes from my house and neither has an off-road track. So for me the decision wasn't too hard. Thats just my opinion.
You do hear a few horror stories but its that way with any rc and is most likely due to driver/setup error. But based on the availibility of parts i'd have to say the 8 2.0 is the best bang for the buck. The parts are cheap and plentiful, expecially on ebay. I see about half of the parts available for the mbx6 vs the 8 2.0.
If i had it to do all over again i would stick with the 8 2.0, without a doubt. It really boiled down to finding the best deal on a 8 2.0 or a mbx6 and i ended up saving alot of money buying the 8 2.0.
I do hope to get into some local racing her shortly, but of course i need some practice time, and with practice comes broken parts. All the lhs around here carry 8 2.0 parts, so in a pinch i'm covered.
For mbx6 parts theres only 2 hobbyshops around here and both are 45-50 minutes from my house and neither has an off-road track. So for me the decision wasn't too hard. Thats just my opinion.