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Should I change carb restrictor or clutch bell

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Should I change carb restrictor or clutch bell

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Old 10-08-2008, 03:44 AM
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Default Should I change carb restrictor or clutch bell

Hi all

I have been racing my Mugen MBX5T with a RB C6 l2g and a RB 2045 pipe and 192 Header. I have been racing 10min heats in fairly high ambient temps (approx 34c) and trying todo the 10mins with no pitstops..

I would like to get an idea of what would be best to do from some pros. should i change to a smaller carb reducer or change clutch bell?

I am running a 7mm stock reducer on the RB c6 and a 13t clutch bell with stock drive line. 1.0mm clutch springs and alloy clutch shoes.

I have a 14t clutch bell, and 15t clutch bell available and have ordered a 6mm reducer.

The track is around 340m long and gets fairly tight. Its clay but does get a fair amount of wheel spin from my current setup. the car is very controllable with my setup but there is room for more fuel economy due to wheel spin. There are no large jumps at the track that require a huge bottom end but due to fairly good grip and the tight track i would like to keep a fairly strong bottom end. also the straights are a normal length for a medium sized track..

On the weekend i made the 10min heat without stopping and in the 1st heat ran out of fuel just after the line but in the 2nd heat i made the line before the time stop therefore had to do my 15th lap and ran out of fuel on my best qual

I need to make 11min if its going to work which i think can be done as i see a fair amount of waste with the current setup...

I ask you advice instead of just trying as its a 3.5hr drive to the track each fortnight with fairly different climate conditions to


thankyou for you help!

here is the track.
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Old 10-08-2008, 08:01 PM
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What fuel are you running the new byrons 30% has less but better oil content.I was able to get better run times ,had to lean about a 1/3 to 1/2 a turn on needle with my RB c5 same temps. More power throughout.More burnable content.
You didn't mention what temps you are running the motor at. An rb can an some times likes to run 250-265 put in a new plug run two tanks if it looks shinny still pobably room for leaning.Better than going totally lean on a straight running out of fuel. Google search" reading glow plug".Carb resrictors help but loose power. Lower nitro will boost run times, as well as hotter plug different brands can fill gaps between med /med hot ect.. I'm not up every plug. Track looks you could go 14 on clutch but doesn't always give better milage sometimes worse . Not up on all pipes or what is legal where you run but if you get a mid pipe you be getting more usable charge on that track packing more otherwise lossed fuel back in engine.
Are you balancing your wheels adds a little weight but the benifits will worth it vibration is wasted energy and unseats tires from surface.
Lightening up what you can.
RBs aggressive crank timing use more fuel.
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Old 10-08-2008, 09:02 PM
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Pracey , Have you tryed cutting your EPA on the throttle i would normally run the carby 1mm to 1.5mm from full throttle so when you look down the carb you would see 1-1.5mm of the slide if you do this you would have to Lean the top end to bring the top end mix right again and make sure the bottom end is not boggy as well as this will chew fuel . I haven't run at meakin but i would think 10 minute runs would be easy in truggy .

Stay with the 13t bell have you tried the 48t Spur .

Cheers Mick
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