SH Z CAR
#47
Well looks like that motor angle mod did not pan out I think you have to re-machine the mounts, the engine sits up too high if you just and spacers Just a thought i had, to angle it further to see if it handled better, Sh probably test all sorts of angles and landed here This buggy is like mcy d's I'm lov'in it!!
#49
Mike - You're running the AE body? You didn't get the 1.5mm body for the truggy? You can stand on that thing and not bend it! I tore up a 1.0mm body in CO, but this new one is quite stout.
As for the diff mounts, just leave them! I don't think lowering the center diff will help all that much. Heck, the truggy raises the center diff and the engine a good 1cm higher to get things to fit right. ...and as for diffs, I think I'm running 3,3,700 in the buggy. 1k in the rear actually felt a little stiff for me. You can always try 2,2,500. Remember, just because it works for one person doesn't mean it works for everyone. You also shouldn't need two washers to space the ring gear. One shim on the ring gear side should be more than enough. There are times where even not having the shim works out pretty well. Haven't noticed any chipped teeth on my cars.
Only other thing I've done recently to the drive train/engine area is added the 1-piece engine plate. It fits pretty tight and seems to prevent any flexing of the engine mounts. Really solid!
The thing I can't figure out is why my truggy drive train is so free spinning. Even with the wheels off it will sit there and spin where my buggy does it for only a couple of seconds
As for the diff mounts, just leave them! I don't think lowering the center diff will help all that much. Heck, the truggy raises the center diff and the engine a good 1cm higher to get things to fit right. ...and as for diffs, I think I'm running 3,3,700 in the buggy. 1k in the rear actually felt a little stiff for me. You can always try 2,2,500. Remember, just because it works for one person doesn't mean it works for everyone. You also shouldn't need two washers to space the ring gear. One shim on the ring gear side should be more than enough. There are times where even not having the shim works out pretty well. Haven't noticed any chipped teeth on my cars.
Only other thing I've done recently to the drive train/engine area is added the 1-piece engine plate. It fits pretty tight and seems to prevent any flexing of the engine mounts. Really solid!
The thing I can't figure out is why my truggy drive train is so free spinning. Even with the wheels off it will sit there and spin where my buggy does it for only a couple of seconds
#50
Mike - You're running the AE body? You didn't get the 1.5mm body for the truggy? You can stand on that thing and not bend it! I tore up a 1.0mm body in CO, but this new one is quite stout.
As for the diff mounts, just leave them! I don't think lowering the center diff will help all that much. Heck, the truggy raises the center diff and the engine a good 1cm higher to get things to fit right. ...and as for diffs, I think I'm running 3,3,700 in the buggy. 1k in the rear actually felt a little stiff for me. You can always try 2,2,500. Remember, just because it works for one person doesn't mean it works for everyone. You also shouldn't need two washers to space the ring gear. One shim on the ring gear side should be more than enough. There are times where even not having the shim works out pretty well. Haven't noticed any chipped teeth on my cars.
Only other thing I've done recently to the drive train/engine area is added the 1-piece engine plate. It fits pretty tight and seems to prevent any flexing of the engine mounts. Really solid!
The thing I can't figure out is why my truggy drive train is so free spinning. Even with the wheels off it will sit there and spin where my buggy does it for only a couple of seconds
As for the diff mounts, just leave them! I don't think lowering the center diff will help all that much. Heck, the truggy raises the center diff and the engine a good 1cm higher to get things to fit right. ...and as for diffs, I think I'm running 3,3,700 in the buggy. 1k in the rear actually felt a little stiff for me. You can always try 2,2,500. Remember, just because it works for one person doesn't mean it works for everyone. You also shouldn't need two washers to space the ring gear. One shim on the ring gear side should be more than enough. There are times where even not having the shim works out pretty well. Haven't noticed any chipped teeth on my cars.
Only other thing I've done recently to the drive train/engine area is added the 1-piece engine plate. It fits pretty tight and seems to prevent any flexing of the engine mounts. Really solid!
The thing I can't figure out is why my truggy drive train is so free spinning. Even with the wheels off it will sit there and spin where my buggy does it for only a couple of seconds
#54
If you really want to turn heads, this is the buggy!! Nobody wants to get smoked by and SH engine let alone an SH buggy There are not too many negitives with his car, here my list:
part support is small
chassis wears fast, its very narrow in the rear
stock spring are crap
not too much set-up help
not really any after market support,yet
Here are the ++ :
super durable
super nimble
super lite, well lite enough
super acceleration
super jumper
I love this car!!
I getting close to posting a sweet set-up for this buggy soooooooooooon
part support is small
chassis wears fast, its very narrow in the rear
stock spring are crap
not too much set-up help
not really any after market support,yet
Here are the ++ :
super durable
super nimble
super lite, well lite enough
super acceleration
super jumper
I love this car!!
I getting close to posting a sweet set-up for this buggy soooooooooooon
#55
easy - could be your chassis is wearing because you might not have enough pack in the shocks? My truggy chassis wore down really quick in Colorado, but I had the suspension soft and the surface was like 80 grit.
As for those one piece mounts, it's a pre-production sample that I got from the factory.
Oh, and what after market stuff do you need? There's plenty of aluminum so not sure what else someone else would make for it.
While there are plenty of parts available, it seems as though not many dealers or shops are willing to take a chance on a new product in this economy. Best bet, at this time, is to check with A-Main or Hobby People for parts.
As for those one piece mounts, it's a pre-production sample that I got from the factory.
Oh, and what after market stuff do you need? There's plenty of aluminum so not sure what else someone else would make for it.
While there are plenty of parts available, it seems as though not many dealers or shops are willing to take a chance on a new product in this economy. Best bet, at this time, is to check with A-Main or Hobby People for parts.
#56
easy - could be your chassis is wearing because you might not have enough pack in the shocks? My truggy chassis wore down really quick in Colorado, but I had the suspension soft and the surface was like 80 grit.
As for those one piece mounts, it's a pre-production sample that I got from the factory.
Oh, and what after market stuff do you need? There's plenty of aluminum so not sure what else someone else would make for it.
While there are plenty of parts available, it seems as though not many dealers or shops are willing to take a chance on a new product in this economy. Best bet, at this time, is to check with A-Main or Hobby People for parts.
As for those one piece mounts, it's a pre-production sample that I got from the factory.
Oh, and what after market stuff do you need? There's plenty of aluminum so not sure what else someone else would make for it.
While there are plenty of parts available, it seems as though not many dealers or shops are willing to take a chance on a new product in this economy. Best bet, at this time, is to check with A-Main or Hobby People for parts.
#57
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
Look also for info on the LRP S8 BX - the sister car. LRP's website (www.lrp.cc/en/) have a bunch of setups from Euro races where the car is performing well.
#60
easy-
I get ya know as far as after market stuff. I know Degani was running an after market clutch on his buggy, but has actually switched back to the stock version as it's proven to work well.
Part of the problem with after market companies is that they only make things if they feel it's going to be profitable. Well, at least for the most part. A company like Proline, for instance, won't make a body for a buggy unless they think thousands are being sold. Unfortunately, the Z-Car buggy is still in its infancy as for popularity and might not see tons of after market stuff as there aren't many out there right now in the U.S. Combine that with the fact the economy is at a low point and you'll find quite a few companies that are/were making option parts are holding back on making anything as they're not sure as to what will be a sure sale.
As for screws... well.... screws are screws. Personally, I find those "stainless steel" sets to be softer than the steel alloy screws that the buggy comes with. Sure, you can use aluminum screws, but the whole beauty of the stock screws is that they work and don't snap all of a sudden as they're not strong enough.
I get ya know as far as after market stuff. I know Degani was running an after market clutch on his buggy, but has actually switched back to the stock version as it's proven to work well.
Part of the problem with after market companies is that they only make things if they feel it's going to be profitable. Well, at least for the most part. A company like Proline, for instance, won't make a body for a buggy unless they think thousands are being sold. Unfortunately, the Z-Car buggy is still in its infancy as for popularity and might not see tons of after market stuff as there aren't many out there right now in the U.S. Combine that with the fact the economy is at a low point and you'll find quite a few companies that are/were making option parts are holding back on making anything as they're not sure as to what will be a sure sale.
As for screws... well.... screws are screws. Personally, I find those "stainless steel" sets to be softer than the steel alloy screws that the buggy comes with. Sure, you can use aluminum screws, but the whole beauty of the stock screws is that they work and don't snap all of a sudden as they're not strong enough.