SH Z CAR
#32

Technazi- I should have said had... I got this from SH about a month before the LRP Truggy was announced. Anyways, I'm running :
Oh, Tech Nazi- Did you get a front chassis brace upper arm mount made from alu. yet? If so, do you have yours with the hole in the upper position, or lower position?
- Big bores
- white springs all the way around
- 1.4 x 6 hole piston in front w/35wt oil
- 1.2 x6 hole pistons in rear w/25wt oil
- 3/3/2
- 1.1 springs w/new lightened SH clutch shoes
- 14/48
Oh, Tech Nazi- Did you get a front chassis brace upper arm mount made from alu. yet? If so, do you have yours with the hole in the upper position, or lower position?

#33
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)

What do you guys think of the plastic on this buggy. I know it is supposed to be about unbreakable but the magazines said that because it was so soft (flexible) that it hurt the supension some depending on the track conditions. I do not see how. I think it would be better because it would absorb more bumps and ruts and smooth out more through those sections.
#34

The problem that they are most likely talking about is the flex on ruff tracks. SH has rubber bushings the would absorb most of that flex in the areas that would cause a bind. Also it helps in high speed straights...
#35

Mike-
Ahhh.... I see now.
I've had mine (well, 3 of them) since about mid July.
While I have the aluminum option part you're talking about, I actually run the stock plastic one to save a hair of weight. Same with the rear suspension mount, but I'm thinking about changing to the aluminum version
As for the springs, the black ones are stiff, but they sent me some other gun metal ones that are crazy stiff. Actually too stiff for the truggy. I believe I'm running the 6 hole pistons stock all the way around with 400cst oil in the front shocks and 500cst in the rear.
Do you also have the newer 1.5mm truggy body? The 1.0 is too thin for racing and gets thrashed pretty easy, but the 1.5mm body feels like a tank. The new wheel hex nuts don't fit in the box, huh? Well then the wide hex hubs definitely won't make it!
You can't really argue with the plastics on the Z-Car buggy or truggy. While it's super tough it's not indestructable. The rubber sleeves in the arms do take a little bit of abuse, but if you crash hard enough you're bound to break something.
Ahhh.... I see now.

While I have the aluminum option part you're talking about, I actually run the stock plastic one to save a hair of weight. Same with the rear suspension mount, but I'm thinking about changing to the aluminum version
As for the springs, the black ones are stiff, but they sent me some other gun metal ones that are crazy stiff. Actually too stiff for the truggy. I believe I'm running the 6 hole pistons stock all the way around with 400cst oil in the front shocks and 500cst in the rear.
Do you also have the newer 1.5mm truggy body? The 1.0 is too thin for racing and gets thrashed pretty easy, but the 1.5mm body feels like a tank. The new wheel hex nuts don't fit in the box, huh? Well then the wide hex hubs definitely won't make it!

You can't really argue with the plastics on the Z-Car buggy or truggy. While it's super tough it's not indestructable. The rubber sleeves in the arms do take a little bit of abuse, but if you crash hard enough you're bound to break something.
#36

PIcs of truggy?
#37

What do you guys think of the plastic on this buggy. I know it is supposed to be about unbreakable but the magazines said that because it was so soft (flexible) that it hurt the supension some depending on the track conditions. I do not see how. I think it would be better because it would absorb more bumps and ruts and smooth out more through those sections.

This buggy is like nothing you have ever seen or drivin. Try it out and you will see, and you it is a risk to purchase such an odd vehicle, but i dont think it will disappoint!!
#38

The alu rear arm mounts take away a lot of the anti squat... Good stuff... And I am using the rc8t body...
#39

Hey Mike K. and Technazi I have made a few tweaks to the buggy and as wondering if you have tried these, what do you think??
Lowered the center diff by grinding the mounts 3-4 mm, I also added 3mm washers to the bigger mtr mount to give the engine a 10 degree or so tilt
I ran the lower diff mount but have yet to try the motor mtn mod.
The diffs feel like I should go down to 2-2-500, currently have 3-3-1, what do you guys have in the diffs??
Thanks!!
Lowered the center diff by grinding the mounts 3-4 mm, I also added 3mm washers to the bigger mtr mount to give the engine a 10 degree or so tilt

The diffs feel like I should go down to 2-2-500, currently have 3-3-1, what do you guys have in the diffs??
Thanks!!
#40
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)

It would seem to me that the write up was a bit inaccurate, I know that the Ofna hobao plastics are ever more flexable than this car, that is acually a good thing cause that car is hard to break and great in ruts and bumps
This buggy is like nothing you have ever seen or drivin. Try it out and you will see, and you it is a risk to purchase such an odd vehicle, but i dont think it will disappoint!!

This buggy is like nothing you have ever seen or drivin. Try it out and you will see, and you it is a risk to purchase such an odd vehicle, but i dont think it will disappoint!!

#42

I don't like changing the diff mounts... I gererally keep it stock. I run 3/3/2

#44

Hey guys I was wonder how well the diffs hold up?? I have a couple gears with small chips in them
Is anyone using 2 diff gaskets, I was thinking about trying it because the diffs feel really tight?? Buggy still feels awsome and I am getting it more dialed
Thanks for the help!! 3-3-2 felt good at the races last nite!!

