Jammin X2-CR ?? (buggy?)
12-28-2008, 09:20 AM
#166
I AM HAVING TROUBLE KEEPING THE REAR END PLANTED? It seems no matter what I try it is super twitchy, I have ran a 3.25 rear toe plate, and a 2.5, I have tried 5-5-2, 5-5-3 and 5-7-3 front,center an rear diff oils, all kinds of tires, it just seems to be really twitchy, It jumps awesome, and accelerates better, I just cannot get a handle on the rear end, any advise?
12-28-2008, 10:01 AM
#167
Yes, Loose, What toe plate are you running? The M-3's make it better, it will handle awesome, (still a bit loose) then it is like a light switch, boom, way off? Maybe I will play with the throttle expos a bit? try to find that fine line my finger cannot?
12-28-2008, 11:58 AM
#168
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12-28-2008, 12:11 PM
#169
I AM HAVING TROUBLE KEEPING THE REAR END PLANTED? It seems no matter what I try it is super twitchy, I have ran a 3.25 rear toe plate, and a 2.5, I have tried 5-5-2, 5-5-3 and 5-7-3 front,center an rear diff oils, all kinds of tires, it just seems to be really twitchy, It jumps awesome, and accelerates better, I just cannot get a handle on the rear end, any advise?
i would try playing with the expos and think about trying a less aggressive clutch setup..
12-28-2008, 07:23 PM
#170
Tech Regular
If your car is loose the first thing i would consider is tires than make sure your rear hubs are all the way forward. you can also lengthen your rear camber link to the out side on the hub. and like someone said soften your clutch. i run jammin silvers with two gold (1.1) and one black(1.0). if its loose i would think that 5-5-3 would be the best diff set-up
if your car is twitchy run a stiffer front sway bar. 2.5 or take a 2.8 rear bar and re-bend it to to match the front and cut it to length.
post your full set-up and it will be easier to help
if your car is twitchy run a stiffer front sway bar. 2.5 or take a 2.8 rear bar and re-bend it to to match the front and cut it to length.
post your full set-up and it will be easier to help
12-28-2008, 08:51 PM
#171
Hmmm, I do not run a front sway bar, Maybe I should? I have the hubs forward, I will try to post my last setup, Really it is Bradley's minus the front swaybar and the rear toe plate, I ran a 2.5...
I am sure this Buggy will be just fine, I am just fightin my style or the length of the buggy? I ran the X1 without a front bar alot, and just moved that philosophy to the X2?
I am sure this Buggy will be just fine, I am just fightin my style or the length of the buggy? I ran the X1 without a front bar alot, and just moved that philosophy to the X2?
12-29-2008, 04:03 AM
#172
For me the X2 truggy also felt more twitchy that the X1 CRT. My X1X is really planted and wouldnt want to trade for any other than X2.
The only issues I have with the buggy is the universals(sorted that now with other make) Steering plastic links that wears from wheels scraping it.
With the X2 it seems you need the fingers to drive.
I like 7-7-3 it seems to work well for me. Give good acceleration, pull and push.
The only issues I have with the buggy is the universals(sorted that now with other make) Steering plastic links that wears from wheels scraping it.
With the X2 it seems you need the fingers to drive.
I like 7-7-3 it seems to work well for me. Give good acceleration, pull and push.
12-30-2008, 08:49 AM
#175
I can't believe I'm defending the price....
If you can find an X1X kit for $350, then that would be a nice option. If the kit you're looking at is the standard CR, then there's at least one thing missing. That is the SBB shocks. Add the price of those to you're conversion and you're pretty close to $700. Also, neither the X1X nor CR come with the Lu Ti TBuckles or the PL Revolvers.
12-30-2008, 09:38 AM
#176
Tech Regular
fast11970
I would first say to start with putting the front 2.5 sway bar on. other things that you can do if that still doesnt do it would be move the rear camber link to the #1 hole on the tower (inside) or go to a 3 deg rear toe.
not sure how you measure ride height but i run mine arms level all the way around and like i said befor it will be easier to drive with 5-5-3 than 5-7-3. not sure on the clutch either. never ran one. if there is a way to soften that clutch try that to.
hope this helps. let us know when you get a chance to try it out.
I would first say to start with putting the front 2.5 sway bar on. other things that you can do if that still doesnt do it would be move the rear camber link to the #1 hole on the tower (inside) or go to a 3 deg rear toe.
not sure how you measure ride height but i run mine arms level all the way around and like i said befor it will be easier to drive with 5-5-3 than 5-7-3. not sure on the clutch either. never ran one. if there is a way to soften that clutch try that to.
hope this helps. let us know when you get a chance to try it out.
12-30-2008, 11:17 AM
#178
I have jammin X1X For sale it has all the options you need. TI,BIg bore( Like 3 races old), once piece engine mount,extra new center diff mount (set), it will come with used (used twice) M3 REVOLVER, Team Factory 2035 PIPE for only 250. ( all the body practice though) 3sets of extra tire Jconcepts Cross Hairs and DOUBLE DEES sOFT,lmk.
12-30-2008, 11:27 AM
#179
here is the pipe that I will include.no dents fairly new.( I have 2 so I dont need 2 so I will include that./)
thanks/
12-30-2008, 11:29 AM
#180
closer look on the pipe.